Cougar

From your readings it seems there is approximately a x10 error. By multiplying the readings by ten they would be within spec.. If you are using a analog meter are you on the x10 scale and not alowing for the multiplier? If you are doing it correctly try using the x100 scale and see if that makes a difference. There may be a problem with the x10 scale of the meter. I would worry about the wires being bad unless there is a problem with the engine performance.

The fuel pump relay is on the left side of the steering wheel under the dash. The blower relay is under the dash near the center. You may be able to identify them by feeling them when you turn the circuit on. They will vibrate a little.

My guess would be the relay is bad. Did you check that?

There are some interesting links there. What I was just trying to say is you won't be able to get the amount of power out of the alternator you claim. If you got 2.5kw that would be good.

So lets see. 110 volts x 130 amps= 14,300 watts. That's a pretty hefty alternator.

I think it was me that posted that info. The number for the blue light is Catalog#: 272-335 I haven't replaced these lights myself but I assume they will work ok.

Perhaps there is a leaky injector on that side.

The EA81 had a chain Ed? I didn't know that.

I am concerned about the backfiring. Are you sure the timing is ok and the firing order is correct? You could try marking the disty position and then try moving it while it is cranking over to see if that will help get it going. The MAF should have 12 volts going to one lead at least I think. Check all the leads going back to the ECU and make sure there is no connection problem. Sorry I can't help with a diagram as I am work now.

I have rebuilt a alternator and you can certainly do it also but after replacing the diodes and cleaning things up I had to wonder if it was worth the time. The diodes cost me around 63 dollars alone. The next time I had to replace one I puchased a Bosch rebuilt for around 135 dollars. It came with a lifetime warranty also.

If you have spark and the plugs are in good shape you might see if spraying some starting fluid into the intake will get things going. If that doesn't work then I would suspect a timing belt problem and check the compression next to see what that shows up.

Thanks for the compliment Dennis. There are a number of folks here that would do well as service techs for Subaru and other car manufacturers. From your post it sounds like you made a jumper wire from the battery, applied power to the injectors and made things run, is that correct? If so, I wouldn't have thought about doing it that way but I could see how it would work. I don't know why it would stay working once you removed power unless there was a dirty relay contact, or something like that. There may be problem with the ignition relay I suppose but I don't think spark would work if that had a problem. I would have to look at the prints to be sure. Glad you got it going and hope you don't have any more problems with it.

That may be a vacuum line tied to a solenoid and there may be a vacuum leak now. There are usually two of those for the emissions system and you don't want to know how expensive those are if you buy them through the dealer. Hopefully you can find a used one from someone here or the salvage yard. You can at least plug the hose up to stop the air leak if there is one.

Check the ignition system also, you may have a loose plug wire.

The codes 14-17 are for injectors 1-4 and 24 is for the air control valve. I would assume that they are not getting power to them. Check to see if the injectors are getting power to them. Check the fuses and the fusible links along with the wiring to the injectors. I'm not sure what air control valve the code is for so you will have to research that one. Make sure there are no bad connections.

I would just try moving the disty to a position that the engine likes to see if you can get it to idle correctly. Is there a possibility that the timing belts could be off? Did these get changed out?

I would check the codes again. One of the sensors may not be working. I very much doubt that the ECU is a problem. If there are no codes then check the injector lead going back to the ECU. The ECU makes a ground to turn on the injector.

From reading your past posts it seems you have covered the voltage checks well. I don't think you are going to make a difference by replacing the fuses but it sure can't hurt and is a simple thing to do. You are going to have to replace the ECU I think. Good job on the trouble shooting, you sound like you were on top of things as a tech. You may be able to fix the ECU. I have fixed a few of them. Trace the pins that have a incorrect voltage like pin 7 and see if there is a obvious problem with a connection in the unit. You can also do a diode check on the transistors in that circuit area to see how they are.

Here's a link for your convenience. But I see I was already beaten on it. http://www.ccrengines.com/

I think the flasher is on the right side of the steering column. By placing your hand on the unit you should be able to feel the vibration when it clicks and identify it that way.

Keep up the good work McBrat.

Check the voltage at pin 7 before you discard the ECU.

The plot thickens.

Did you ask the shop what they did to fix this? It would be nice to know what they did. If you are saying that the idle is between 0 and 1000 rpm it is a little low. As was mentioned, 700 RPM would be about right.

Your welcome.