Cougar

Welcome to the board. There is some good help here. For parts there is a section called The Market Place. Click on the window for the area selection and then click on the section.

It would be good to know exactly what code is being set. I can't see how changing the rear sensor is going to effect the front one. I would check the voltage from the O2 sensor at the ECU to make sure it is ok.

I received one with my new '83 GL-10.

If you have an overhead map light I would check up in there. I have heard of problems in that area.

Don't be confused here, all we are looking for is a battery and ground connection. From the sounds of your first post it sounds like you are getting power to the pump but just need the ground or return connection to make it run. I don't think that the pump is meant to be just grounded to the body but I can't say for sure as I don't have a manual. I think the ground for the pump is controlled by the controller. I would see if you can trace the pump wires back to the controller and if you can, then you can test from there. Using your test light and clipping the lead to a good ground point will work fine. When testing the ground side of the pump circuit the light will be ON when there is power going through the pump windings but no ground is being made to it. The pump can't run because the circuit is open. If the light is OFF while touching the ground side and there is power getting to the pump, then the pump will be ON. The current flow will cause a voltage drop across the pump motor because the circuit is complete and not open.

Yes, that is correct if your device can use a zero to five volt input signal. This is a logic signal level and I'm pretty sure that will work for your device. I assume your device has a high input impedence so it won't load down the source.

Here is a picture of what they look like.

Have you checked the connection to the O2 sensor clear back to the ECU. There may be a wiring problem. I would check the connections to the MAF and TPS for the engine RPM problem.

To check the codes there should be some black connectors near the ECU. Connect them together and and turn the the ignition to ON. Then count the flashes. Long lashes are tens units and short ones are single units. Two long and three short flashes would be 23. The battery warning light tells you that the charging system needs to be looked at. Something isn't right. It could be a loose fanbelt, a bad alternator, or connections to it are causing this. For the lights, check to make sure the switch on top of the steering column is in the correct position, OFF. If that doesn't help then you may need to check the wiring. See if the switch on top of the column will turn the lights on.

I would see if voltage is getting to the solenoids and check the resistance of the coils to see if they are open. Be careful not break the small plastic pieces. They are very expensive to buy new.

Josh (Legacy777) or Skip should be able to tell you right off what needs to be done ( JOSH! SKIP! Where are those guys?). I think you may need to add the sensor for that model to do what you want to do but they can tell you for sure.

Doesn't the controller make the ground for the pump? He stated that power was getting to the pump but since it is not working and the pump has proven good, a missing ground would seem to be the reason it is not working. I thought the FPC had control of that.

I hope this is not a sign of a bad head gasket. Hopefully it is just a sticking thermostat. You may want to get a block check done to see if any exhaust gases are in the coolant.

As far as I know, all digital dashes were vacuum florescent. LED's would not be bright enough.

Thanks for the info Naru. Now that you mention it my memory is recalling that also. If I remember correctly the controller is under the passenger seat, or is it somewhere else? I never had to work on my '83 really much at all so I didn't get into the systems as much as the newer style. That car was the least troublesome auto I have ever owner. I had it about 11 years.

I know the newer models activate the pump by providing a ground to the pump through the ECU and I think yours may be the same way but I can't say for sure. I have repaired a couple of the newer style ECU's that had the same problem with providing a ground for the pump. The same transistor had to be replaced in both units. Your ECU may have a similar problem. The pump should come on briefly when you turn the key to ON, or at least the newer models do that. If you have 12 volts on both sides of the connections to the pump (with reference to ground) then the ground switching is not working for some reason. You have already proved that the pump works when tied to power directly so I'm pretty sure this is the problem.

I think it leaves a conductive surface.

You might want to clean the contacts with some alcohol or contact cleaner. Be sure the connection is tight.

Intake manifold leaks are common. You should be able to listen for a leak by using a hose to your ear and down by the joint. Also spraying some WD-40 around the joint with the engine running can show one up. I had one so bad you didn't even need a hose to hear it.

Welcome to the forum. There are some good helpers here. It sounds like the pump should be replaced. You don't want any part of a gas leak going on like that for obvious reasons. I don't think it should be driven with that going on unless you can stop it somehow and seal it up. You may be able to get a used pump at a salvage yard.

Use a test light or voltmeter to see if there is voltage on the wire while the ignition is off.

Another simple way of doing this is to get a fuse tap at a parts store and then tap onto one of the fuses for the extra device. There are fancy taps available that you replace the original fuse with the tap and then plug the original fuse in the main slot and another for the extra load. There is a wire with a butt splice to make the connection.

Another simple way of doing this is to get a fuse tap at a parts store and then tap onto one of the fuses for the extra device. There are fancy taps available that you replace the original fuse with the tap and then plug the original fuse in the main slot and another for the extra load. There is a wire with a butt splice to make the connection.

Yes, if you can do that. A live test tells you what is really happening. You can also pierce the insulation of the wire with a pin to get a reading but I hate to do that. I would seal the hole with something like silicone if you do it that way.

If you have a 5 pin connector to the MAF then pin 1 may be supply power and pin 4 ground. You should be able to ohm out the ground easily enough if that isn't correct. I like to take voltage readings of all the pins, using a known good ground point to reference to, while the system is running. You can usually tell what is what that way fairly quickly.