Cougar

I think you have a bad ground connection. To prove it you can either measure the voltage of the ground to the light or run a ground jumper to the light gound lead. If the is more than .25 volts on the ground lead or the ground lead corrects the problem then you need to work on the ground to the light. If it doesn't make any difference then the power to the light is the problem. If the high beams do the same thing, then I would suspect the common ground to the lights is the problem.

The fact that you stated that the turn signals stopped working when you pushed the switch in makes me think the switch connection is ok. I would suspect the flasher unit as the problem.

That injector may be bad, but check the wiring to it to see if there is a problem with it. You could also swap injectors to prove it is the injector itself.

It sounds like the wire got damaged somehow. Good troubleshooting and thanks for the feedback. Edit: Now that I read your post again I think you are talking about a fusible link. You need to replace that with the same color link if it is.

Since you stated that the 'start terminal' had no voltage when you tested it, this could mean there is an ignition switch problem or a problem with the inhibit switch if you have an automatic. I assume you tested that terminal while trying to start it with the key in the start position. If you didn't, then you need to try that test again but it would seem that the starter has been eliminated as the problem now. That voltage is used to energize the solenoid coil of the starter. It turns on the motor and engages the bendix to the flywheel to turn the engine.

It may help us if you provide the year and model of your car to trouble shoot this though they are fairly generic. The ECU needs to see firing pulses before it will turn on the injector. The most common problem with this type of trouble is the distributor not sending firing pulses to the ECU. One quick way to check that is to place a test light probe on the minus side of the coil with the clip lead to ground and try and start the engine. If the light just stays lit up and has no flashes then there is trouble with the CAS in the disty. If you have no light at all then check for power on the plus side of the coil. If you have no power, check the fusible links for a problem. Also, fuse #5 is critical in this circuit if you have a '85 or newer car.

Ditto on that Tim!

It sounds like the O2 sensor is bad. You could replace it and then see what happens.

Thanks for making that clear NorthWet. I didn't explain that right and had a wrong thought about the design of it.

You need to follow the instructions that I gave you in my first post. Did you do that test? If so, what did you find out?

I don't understand what you mean "threw a rocker arm". Would you explain that to me.

To me this code indicates a problem with the sensor or the wiring to the sensor. If the wiring to it is ok then I think you should replace the sensor.

I also agree that the solenoid contacts may need to be replaced. The problem may also be with the inhibit switch, as was mentioned. To see if the solenoid contacts are at fault you can check the voltage on the small wire going to the solenoid coil. If you have voltage there when you try to start it and the starter doesn't work then the solenoid contacts are at fault probably. If there is no voltage there, then the inhibit switch needs to be checked.

Good sluthing SLudwig. Thanks for the feedback. I forget about the relay being in the circuit also. Always want to blame the resistors or the motor for these problems. Tain't neccessarily so.

Nice car, and mountain view Subieman. Looks like Subaru Country to me.

You can fix this. I would suggest you get a compression tester or borrow one if you can. They aren't real expensive and are an important tool to have for engine repair work. You have two of the three things needed for internal combustion. You just need to know if the third one is there. If you do have compression then you may have a timing problem to look at. I'm not sure what wires you are talking about, that you mention in your last post.

Using a voltmeter to test for voltage to the circuit is the best way to go in my book.

Have you checked the compression, spark, and fuel delivery?

Have you checked the disengage switches on the clutch and brake pedals for an adjustment problem?

To test for a bad ground you can measure the voltage at the bulb socket ground using a known good ground as your reference. You can also make a ground jumper and tie one end to a known good ground point and the other to the bulb socket. If the bulb works then the gound lead is bad. If there is no change then the power side is bad.

This doesn't sound good to me. There may be a problem with the transmission bearings, CV joints, or rear end. I would get this into the shop. Hopefully the warranty will cover this.

Good work on the car. Check the ECU for any codes that may help. The ground for the pump is normally made by the ECU. There are some ignition signals that the ECU looks at that need to be working in order for the ECU to keep the pump turned on. The signals it seems would have to be there because you got the car to run. This makes me think that if it is the ground that is not being made to the pump then the ECU may be bad for that ciricuit. I repaired a couple of these for the Loyal series that had that problem. Check to see if the pump is getting 12 volts on both sides of the wires by placing the common meter lead to ground and probe each side of the pump with the key turned to on. If you don't have 12 volts then the problem may be the relay or in the wiring to it.

That may be for the air flow meter at the intake. I would place an ohmmeter lead to the contact that the fuse supplies power to (fuse removed). Place the other lead to a good ground. I would guess the reading is going to be near zero or at zero ohms. Then start disconnecting things in the engine area and see if you can make the reading go up a little so there is not a short. Whatever you disconnect that removes the short needs to be looked at.

That is a unbelieveable price.

These lights are a common failure. Here is some links that may help you replace them. http://www.med.uc.edu/pstp/students/fortner/rulights.htm http://www.randomsoup.com/how_acpanelbulbs.html