Cougar

It sounds like the main ground lead connection to the motor may be bad as you said Brian. If the lead that got fried ties to the body and there is another ground lead to the body from the battery then the main cable to the engine must be making a poor ground connection somehow. This would make the starter motor current try to travel through the body ground path wires which are not able to handle that much current. I doubt that this is your problem, but I have seen the starter lead short internally in the starter because the post connection had turned due to too much torque on the outside nut of the connection. This made the inside lead connection touch ground. Before trying to start up again check the ground connections with a ohmmeter and look for a problem. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this.

That's what I have. It's the best Soob I have owned, also the most expensive. You need the high octane gas for it.

Thanks for the heads up Frag. I was unaware of that.

I think you need to use a scan tool to clear a set code for OBD-2. I don't think removing the battery connection will clear it. I may be wrong, but I think that is correct.

The thermo switch for the cooling fan is seperate from the temperature gauge sensor for the gauge, if that is what you are asking. The sensor for the gauge is a thermistor type sensor, which changes resistance as temperature changes. The thermo switch is just a on-off type switch that closes when the temperature reaches a certain point and turns the fan on. The thermo switch is usually mounted in the radiator and the gauge sensor is mounted on the engine. If the thermostat is not opening far enough then the coolant will not be able to move through the radiator like it should and the cooling fan may turn on more than it should normally. The temperatures settings used for the thermo switch to turn on are usually between 212-220 degrees F I think.

I'm not sure myself where this is but I think it is up in the area you mention. If you don't get an answer by Friday I will be back home and can check my manual then.

Your welcome Bill. Let us know what you find out.

Thanks Olnick, I sure skimmed over that part. This sure would pretty much eliminate the starter as the problem. Bill: Along with the other suggestions I would check main cable to the starter. There may be internal corrosion to the wire at the battery end causing the problem and you can't see it. To prove it, just measure the voltage at the starter end of the cable while the trouble is happening and the key is turned to the start position. If the starter isn't turning and the there is less than 12 volts at the end of the cable, then there is a problem with the cable. If the cable is ok then check for 12 volts getting to the small solenoid wire connection while trying to start. A normal voltage reading at the end of the cable when the starter is working will be about 10 or 11 volts due to load on the battery and voltage drop on the cable itself.

I would say there is a 95% chance the problem is the starter solenoid contacts. These can be replaced for under $15.00 for the parts. This is a common problem for that age of car.

You are going to be pleasantly surprised how well that car is in the snow Pinksoad3. Just remember to not get over confident when you see how well it does. Hitting slippery spots can still get you trouble. I also would recommend you get some good snow tires for car for the mountain trips. The best way to go is to get an extra set of rims to put them on for easy changing. The Blizzacks work very well but if you get them, try to keep them on only when needed for the snow trips since they wear pretty fast on normal road conditions. Good tires will set you back some money but they can save you from possible disaster also. I had an '88 GL-10 for many years here in Alaska. The only time I had any trouble is when I had the summer tires on when the snow first hit the ground. I did a 180 in the middle of the road. Fortunately, I didn't hit anything in the process.

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the update.

You are correct Gannon, though the signals to the various places mentioned have been processed by the ECU and are different in comparison to the CAS signal.

Thanks Mwatt. I didn't know when they changed over.

Glad you got it. Did the horn honk when you turned the key to the on position of the off position on the 10th turn?

It is doubtful that the belts will cause those kind of symtoms I think. If the timing was off then it would not change after warming up. It may be good to just inspect the belts though if you don't know there condition.

If you have a flexible cable that ties to the speedometer then it may be broken. I don't think that will generate a code if you have that kind of design.

If the crank angle sensor has a problem like you mention it will generate a trouble code in the ECU. The trouble code for the CAS is 13, assuming you have a SPFI model. If the engine is hesitating up hills and at higher speeds then the pump is most likely the problem. One of the members here just showed how he purchased a new pump for a Ford truck and only paid about $36 dollars for it from Ebay. He adapted it to work on his Subaru with little trouble. Here is a link to it in case you are interested: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400 Your welcome for the help.

I think you are correct Adam N.D.J. . It is really called the crank angle sensor and your description is correct. The only other revolution sensor I can think of for speed is for the speedometer/odometer. Weak fuel pumps are a fairly common problem.

The pump should run continuously if it is tied directly to the battery. The pump is bad. The may be some debris in it.

I think McBrat has a factory manual. You may have to isolate the ground on the speakers for your new system.

The LSi was the top of the line back then. The shocks may run you around $600 dollars to have it converted. I would call a Subaru shop and see if you can get a quote to do this. I would adjust the price of the car according to the quote and the local market. I don't know of any problems to look out for except the normal wear items. You might want to get a block check done to see if there are any exhaust gases getting into the coolant. This is cheap to do. I think you are going to really like this car if you get it.

Good work Q240z. Don't give up on all the shops. There are a lot of good techs out there. You just need to find where they are.

I'm not sure how you can eliminate the fuel pump being the problem by appearing to be ok, unless it has been pressure tested while the problem is happening. If the pump really is ok then I would check the throttle next, as was mentioned. If that is ok then I would check the intake manifold for a leak.

Good idea Midwst. Perhaps a leak down test would convince the mechanic about the problem.

If you are planning to keep the car for at least 5 more years then I would suggest getting a rebuilt engine from CCR. This will give you a 3 year warranty along with a totally rebuilt engine that will last a long time. The lack of coolant movement and other symtoms you have sure do sound like gaskets to me also. To Grimmreaper: Your mechanic knows his stuff alright. He could work on my Soob anytime.