Cougar

I would have a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant.

It is the knock sensor that detects misfire I believe. Some of the sensors were too sensitive and gave a false error code. Replacing the sensor was the cure for the problem.

The Actron 9125 will work fine on any OBD-2 system. I have been looking at some scantools myself. The Actron CP9150 kit seems nice if you are looking for a kit to also cover various makes and models before '96 and is selling for around $289 dollars. The CP9145 is the model included in the kit. The Equus 3110 is a very nice unit and is selling for about $200 dollars. I like the display on these models better than the Actrons. I think I will settle on this one. The 3100 is nice and is selling for $120 dollars. You need to look up the code definition on this model and dosen't do the CAN protocol, as was mentioned. For a full featured PC based scantool here is a link to check it out. It will also work with Palms. http://www.autotap.com/

You can, but then power needs to be disconnected to the contacts. You cannot check resistance of a circuit that has power applied to it. It will be much easier and more valid to test for voltage on both sides of the switched contacts.

I think the ignition relay is under the dash somewhere. I don't have a manual to check the location unfortunately. The relay in the EA-82 is on the right side of the steering column. Perhaps yours is also.

TahoeFerrari, You are correct on both counts. I do have the factory manual and the relay is on when the ignition is on. The other side of the relay coil ties directly to ground. I just assumed that the relay would turn on with the window switch. I didn't bother looking at the other side of the circuit. One could use a momentary type switch to do what I was suggesting. This would leave the power in the normal position until you needed it. Then the switch would have to be held down along with the window switch to raise or lower the window. This would keep the current drain down while the car is sitting.

The power to the coil is usually supplied to it through an ignition relay which is controlled by the ignition switch. I would check the relay next to see if you have power there and if it is being turned on by the ignition switch.

Have you checked the intake manifold gaskets for a leak? They could be leaking coolant, air, or both, into the intake.

Since other things are turning on when the ignition switch is turned on then that means it is ok. I would check for voltage getting to both sides of the ignition coil with the key turned to the 'on' position using a test light probe. If there is voltage getting to the plus side of the coil and not to the minus side then the coil is open and needs to be replaced. If you have power to both sides of the coil connections (+ and - sides) then place the test probe on the coil minus side and crank the engine. The light should start pulsing with each ignition pulse. If you don't see any pulses then check the pickup loop in the distributor for a problem.

You mentioned in your first post that the AC was turning on intermittantly, is that coinciding with the RPM fluctuations? There are some things that can make the idle of the engine change to keep the charging up. The AC is one of them. I still don't understand why the AC is turning on if you have the system off, unless the defroster is on.

Looking at my '88 manual again, it shows that the window relay is located under the passenger seat. There is a connector (P1) located near the right strut tower that ties to the window relay contacts. If a spare harness could be found at a salvage yard you could take both sides of connector P1 and use that to tie into the circuit using the switch setup I mentioned. There would be no cut wires this way and the original connectors could be plugged back together if you wanted to be original again. I'm not sure where the current drain is coming from when the jumper is installed between F19 and F10 that TF mentioned in his post. The window relay will not draw any current until a switch is turned on. I would not want to have 120ma of idle draw on the battery. It is not a lot of current but it is a lot more than the normal 7ma current draw before a change. I start looking for battery drain problems if the current draw is more than 80-100ma on the system.

There is a switch mounted on the lock mechanism inside the driver's door. Cleaning the contacts of the switch may fix the problem if the wires to it are not broken and causing this problem.

I agree with what NorthWet says. First clean the battery connection with a battery brush. Check the fusible links for a problem. If they are ok then check the ignition switch. I would get a test light probe so you can verify that power is getting to the places that it should be.

Your welcome for the help. The alternator voltage should never go past 15 volts. A replacement unit should fix this up. All cars are basically the same though they can do some things a little different from another to perform the same thing.

To Donkijote: To start a new thread go the page that displays the various threads. Near the top on the left side you will see the "New Thread" button to click on.

I concure with Olnick. New solenoid contacts are what you need. You were right in looking at the starter as the fault.

Maybe there is something going on with the air intake system.

There is no current draw on the battery until something is turned on. I think an easier solution to this modification would be to add a single pole-double throw switch into the circuit. The common of the switch would tie to the relay coil contact that the existing Green/White is tied to (refer to my earlier post #4). Remove the G/W wire from the relay contact and tie it to one side of the new switch. Since power is already hot going to the relay switched contact, just add a small fuse from that contact going to the relay, and tie the other end of the fuse to the other new switch connection. Now you can run the windows either way using the selection switch. One way will let them be run as they were originally and the other way will let them run with the ignition off. If you want to turn the windows off totally then a switch with a 'center off' position or a 'on-off-on' switch will do the job.

There may be a problem with the clutch plate and the pressure plate or in the transmission. It also sounds like your transmission is in need of some work if the gears are slipping out. Worn syncros will cause that to happen.

I don't think there is a problem with the alternator though a load test on it will show you the capacity it has. The alternator has nothing to do with the AC turning on and off.

According to my '88 manual the main power for the windows is already hot to the relay contact. It is the power to the relay coil that is controlled by the ignition switch. The Green/White wire goes to fuse #10 on the fuse panel. Not sure what year your vehicle is so it may, or may not be the same.

It is called the inhibitor switch. Along with the Park switch connections for the starter control it has the switch contacts for the other shift also.

Those temps sound about normal to me.

I agree, I would check the alternator. It sounds like the internal regulator is having trouble.

An alternator that has less capacity than needed would not be able to keep up with the current load if you had a lot of accessories on so the battery would discharge. The warning lights would tell you something is not right. If the current load stays within the alternator's capability you wouldn't notice a problem.