Cougar

Seeing the descriptions of the pins helps. It sounds to me that there may not be a real problem with the TPS. The ohm reading between B and D doesn't seem real important to me. Another thing you could check, after reconnecting things, is the voltage change between B and C with ignition on but the engine not running, as you move the throttle. If that changes smoothly from closed to WOT then I would think all is well with the TPS.

I would suspect the B contact is purposely isolated from the metal ground. Is there a way you can clean the contacts to see if that will help?

Here is a link to a site with some pictures that may help you. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/subaru_legacy_knock_sensor.htm

I am not sure how that can happen though it isn't a real problem I wouldn't think. From my past dealings with the CEL circuit, the ECU makes a ground connection to turn on the light. It is done through an IC. Perhaps having an existing problem changes the logic to the light control. It would be nice to know what happens when the code is cleared.

Great photo Qman. Brings back memories of that area. Those Soobs look good.

Your welcome for the help. Keep us posted on the progress.

When you click on 'Reply' instead of Post it highlights and quotes the response that you click on. Using the Post will just put in whatever you type in it. Everybody sees all of the posts either way.

In order for the starter to cause a current drain the starter solenoid would have to be engaged somehow. This kind of thing really doesn't happen, for the most part at least. Current drains are usually traced to some accessory in the dash or under the hood. Sometimes the alternator can be the cause of the problem. If you work on the alternator be sure to disconnect the battery first because the output lead is hot to the battery.

Are the voltages correct to and from the MAF? There may be a wiring problem to it.

Here is a link to a post that shows the switch that is in the door. http://www.rweddysolutions.com/Subaru96fix The door panel needs to be pryed off. There are some plastic posts that stick in a hole that hold them in. Try to locate them with a small putty knife and wedge them out of there hole.

I would guess the problem is a drain. If the alternator is not charging there should be some warning lights on in the dash while the engine is running. I would first see if the lights work by turning the key to the run position without starting the engine. All the warning lights should turn on. To see if there is a drain remove the negative battery lead and put a test light in series with the lead and the negative post, or use a ammeter. With everything off in the car the light should be very dim or not lit at all. The current shouldn't be more than about 80 milliamps if you use a meter. If there is a draw then pull fuses one at time to see which one causes a drop. That will be the path you need to check for a problem.

Maybe the two devices are in series with each other. Have you checked the voltage of all three wires to see if you may have got the correct wire for the supply voltage?

If they are ok then how about the EGR and PCV valves?

Have you checked for leaks at the intake gaskets?

A bad temp sensor for the ECU could make the engine run rich.

Check the ECU for trouble codes. Look at the LED in the unit and count the flashes. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Did you check the intake manifold gaskets for a leak? If that is ok you could try disconnecting hoses and plug the port while watching the vacuum gauge for a increase in vacuum to try to find the path the leak is on. If you have a automatic tranny the modulator may be leaking.

I would assume that the device is controlled through the ECU. If that is so, then the drop in voltage will be from there most likely. You should also be able to measure the resistance of the solenoid coil to see if that is ok.

It sounds like the timing belts need to be checked again. One or both may be tooth off. Also check for a leaky fuel injector to see if that may be the cause of it running rich. If that is ok then maybe the coolant sensor for the ECU has gone bad. This is different than the sensor for the temperature gauge and may behind the throttle body.

I agree you may need a new fuel pump. Not sure this will cure the missing though. That may be a different problem. My car used to stumble going at highway speed up a particular hill. After the pump was changed that problem went away.

The folks at Crutchfield will know what you need for size and have a good assortment of brands to choose from. You can check them out on-line.

What you describe doesn't sound real good. If you really want the car I would have a good tranny shop look at it and see what they think.

If you can find a parts store and get a Bosch rebuilt unit it would be pretty reasonable on you pocketbook plus get a warranty with it.

Check for blown fusible link under the hood.

The engine is fuel injected so there are no secondary jets. The problem may be due to a bad spot on the throttle position sensor. Also check the airfilter and fuel filter to see if they are dirty. If these things don't help fix the problem I would check the fuel pressure to see if that is ok. The fuel pump may be getting weak. It would be good to check for any trouble codes in the ECU also.