Cougar

Look at the ignitor as a switch. When the pulses from the ECU go to the ignitor they will turn the unit on and this will cause the output to go to ground potential. That will cause the coil to have current flow and charge the coil field. Then when the pulse changes and the ignitor turns off the current through the coil will stop and the field will collapse and a spark will be generated.

Ok, well if there is signal pulses getting to the ignitor and you still have no spark and are sure the ignitior has a good ground then it seems the ignitor is at fault.

Well it appears then that the control to turn on the relay is not doing its job. My manual shows that the relay is turned on by a slip amplifier. I will have to see where that is located. As a test, you could jumper the contacts of the relay to see if the compressor will turn on then.

Since there is a spark occuring it is a good sign that the coil is ok. I need to know where the blue wire goes. You stated that one side goes to the minus side of the coil. Where does the other end go?

You state you see the signals. What are you using to look at them with, a scope? When does the blue wire go from the minus side of the coil?

Wait a minute! Isn't there some sort of Mitsu imposter amongst all those fine looking Soobs. LOL.

Sorry Skip, You have far too many correct and helpful answers to posts to accept that title. So, is doing all modification to the turbo a quick way to blow out the engine but have fun doing it?

Did you also check for voltage at the fuse on the strut tower? If there is no voltage there, then you need to check the fusible links which should be in a small plastic box mounted on the coolant resevoir.

I can feel the love here. It' a wonderful thing.

Setright, The way I understand the operation of the door is it selects either the heated outside air or, the air conditioned, dehumidified air. The air flowing through the heater section doesn't get dried, if I understand the system correctly. It just flows through the heater core and into the cabin. When the AC mode is selected this area is normally shut off by the door and air from the AC section is allowed to flow. We may be talking about two different doors due to the differences in our idea of what is the cause of the problem.

Did you also replace the lead between the coil and the distributor? That is the wire you need to check and see if spark is getting through, as I stated in my last post.

I would suspect the air blend door is changing and causing this to happen. The door motor is controlled by a vacuum from the engine. There may be a small leak in the system that is causing this to happen. When the door is in the wrong position it will let the heater air in.

Good point NorthWet. Also with the duty cycle as it is I would guess that they may be less than 5 watts but I have never looked into this.

I'm not sure of the model plugs you need but they can tell you at the parts store or it may be listed in the owners maunal.

The reason you are getting a spark is because the voltage is turning off and that make makes the coil generate a spark. Your problem is most likely either the CAS or the ECU. I would try replacing the CAS first.

It would seem you must have put the wires in the wrong positions. Did you replace them one at a time or remove all of them and then put the new ones on? To make sure you have spark pull out the coil lead from the distributor and place the end near a ground point. Then see if you have spark when you crank the engine.

Putting them in line will not hurt anything but it may without them. I wonder what the power rating is on the resistors?

The reason they may have used both pins 37 and 43 is to split the current up to them. To see if the ignition amp is ok you could try making a jumper lead and tie a resistor to it. Perhaps about 25 ohms may be good. Then place one side of the lead to the amp input or base and then momentarily touch the other side of the lead to ground. If the amp is ok then hopefully you will see a spark each time you touch ground. I have not tried this test myself so I can't say if it will actually work or not. It is just a guess.

You've got questions, we've got answers. 1. I would first replace the plugs. Use the proper NGK versions for your car. 2. To help track down the battery discharge disconnect the negative battery lead and place a test light or ammeter in series between the two connections while there is nothing on in the car. Just like it was parked. The current drain will light up the light or make the meter show some current drain. If there is more than 80 milliamps of drain then start pulling fuses one at a time and look for a change in the light or the meter. When it goes out or down then you have found the path the current is flowing on and need to check the devices on that leg. The corrodid ground lead won't cause this problem but you should repair it as other type of problems can occur because of that. 3. I think the 5 pulses means things are normal with the ECU.

My manual does show fuse #11 to the coil also Skip. Fuse #5 provides power to the ECU through the ignition relay. Since there are codes being sent out the fuse may be ok but I just wanted to make sure that was ok. I spent a lot of time on a problem once where engine wouldn't fire due to lack of spark and it was because the fuse was not in place. For the transistor, it could be open and have a voltage present that he saw but didn't say how much. If the device was shorted, then he would not have seen a voltage and would be at ground potential.

It sounds like there may be something causing the alternator to put out full output. If there is a seperate regulator it may be that or if the regulator is internal then the field lead may be grounded and causing this to happen.

First, make sure fuse #5 is good and there is voltage to it. If that is ok then I would check to see that the wire from the CAS to the ECU is ok and that the pulses are getting to the ECU. An O-scope would be nice to look at the pulses with though you may be able to look at them with a digital voltmeter with the AC volts selected.

Have you checked the fuse panel for the optional fuse? This is in addition to the AC fuse. Edit. After looking at the manual again, it shows the fuse is located near the relay on the right strut tower. The wire color is white though yours may be different. It looks like the the fuse is under a bracket that holds possibly a vacuum reservoir. Hopefully yours is the same way.

I have a manual for an '88 model so it may be a little different than yours. The manual shows the compressor power is supplied through fusible link 4 and then through a relay that is mounted on the right hand strut tower. There is also an optional fuse to the relay that may be located near it.

Have you replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pressure for a problem?