Cougar

I think you are looking for a small box with the delay circuit in it. It may be behind the radio area.

It sounds like you found the inspection cover. You will need to remove it to get to the tank sensor plate. I'm not sure how you remove it.

Welcome to the board Spiderman. I think the sensor can be found on top of the engine towards the rear end.

You should be able to make things work as he stated though I don't know what the lead connections are on the Volvo alternator.

Since you stated that the motor usually comes on while moving the slider I would suspect that the problem is near that area and not in the motor. The problem may be with the fan speed selector switch.

These kind of problems can be traced to bad solder connections on the dash circuit a lot of times.

I think the turbo at least will make it different, but I can't say that for sure.

Hopefully this is just due to a loose hose clamp that is leaking under pressure. I would top off the coolant level and check for a leak after the engine is hot. You may have to leave it running to spot the leak.

I have heard of a section between the engine and the transmission that the oil can "disappear into" if the section leaks. I would call it a transfer section but I may be wrong. I think that section uses either a gear oil or transmission fluid for lubrication.

Here is a copy of some info I found doing a search about phase 2 engines. Hopefully this will help you. * There are two phases of 2.5 liter (normally aspirated, non turbo) engines used in Subarus. * Phase 1 engines are DOHC (Dual Overhead Cam), were used from '96 to '99 in most cars, and typically experience an "internal" head gasket failure if failure happens. This is hard for a lot of mechanics to diagnose, is difficult to reliably duplicate, and often has resulted in the owners throwing money and parts at the problem. New thermostats, flushing coolant, new water pumps, and other things described in the above links are examples which do not fix the problem if it is indeed head gasket failure. If the engine overheats too many times or too severely, it can result in warped heads and the need for a new engine. As of this date Subaru has never acknowledged the existence of any problem. They have redesigned the head gaskets and most people that have had the new gaskets installed have had good success. The "coolant conditioner" described below DOES NOT fix this internal leak, nor does it give you an extended warranty as described below. Headgasket replacement, at a cost of a hundred (DIY) to a thousand (independent shop) to a few thousand (Subaru dealer service) dollars are your only options besides engine replacement. * Phase 2 engines are SOHC (Single Overhead Cam), were used from '00 to present in most cars, and typically experience an "external" head gasket leakage if it happens. This problem, while pretty widespread, does not seem to be as damaging in nature to the engine. It has been acknowledged by Subaru in the form of a "Service Campaign" #WWP-99 which applies to certain '99 to '02 cars. It involves adding a "Coolant Conditioner" to the coolant and if this is done the owner's head gaskets are covered against external coolant leaks for 8 years or 100K miles. Here's a Nasioc thread about the service campaign: WWP-99 Campaign thread There is a lot of discussion about exactly what the "Coolant Conditioner" is, and it seems the consensus is that's it's just a form of stop leak. But, if you want the extended warranty you must have it added. It does not help resolve the "internal" leak as described above that plagues the Phase 1 2.5's.

The convertor may have a 5 year warranty. I would check into that.

Your welcome for the help. A sticking relay will be like you describe. Just a slight movement can clear the connection.

You may need to replace the syncro in it. Here is a link to a site that you could try to fix this by using their product before you take the tranny out. This product seems very interesting. http://auto-rx.net/ Here is the instructions they give for a manual transmission: Manual The application ratio is 1 ounce of Auto-RX® per quart of oil. Drive 1,000 miles and drain the Auto-RX® and oil. Refill with the transmission oil of your choice. The application will last for the life of your manual transmission.

Welcome to the forum Tanya. The test that Subie Gal mentioned is a done by sampling the coolant for hydrocarbons. They can do this with either a tester that sniffs the coolant or they can also add a chemical to a coolant sample that will change color if gases are in the coolant. Either test is cheap to do. From the sounds of things you may have a small gasket leak. You could also have a partially plugged radiator that could cause this to happen.

It does seem kind of strange to measure the compression with a new engine but doing so will either eliminate that as a problem or show that something is wrong. You have checked spark so we know that is ok (at least if is at the right time). That leaves fuel and compression as the other possible problems. You will also see how close all the numbers are together, so it really isn't a waste of time.

I think you should have seen power between the light connector and ground. I'm pretty sure the door switches make a ground connection to turn on the light though I may be wrong. If so then the power would be coming from the switch side of the circuit. Assuming my first thought is correct and you have no power at the light to ground then you will need to trace the lead to the light back towards the fuse panel. You should also be able to check the door leads to one of the light wires to see which one ties to the door switches using the ohmmeter.

I would recommend you check the compression of all the cylinders.

It sounds like the relay is sticking. I don't know which one it is but you could try pulling them out one at time to find out which one will kill the fan. Doing this test while the engine and fan is running should keep the relay from dropping out while you check this.

Welcome to the board to both of you guys and hope you really enjoy your Soobs. It seems your question on this issue is not getting any response with the members here. Usually there is better response to questions but radio issues are less responded to. I don't there is an AUX input you can directly tie the line out of the iPod to. There are RF modulators available so you can use the FM radio to listen to the iPod program. Though it sounds like Sipperphoto may already have one and the audio is not that great using it. If you want to make improvements to the audio I would suggest repacing the speakers in the car first. They will give you the most 'bang for the buck' sort of speaking.

The battery should get a medal for outstanding service.

Here is a link to a site that may help you. http://www.autopartsgiant.com/demox34a.cfm

You might try pulling out the flasher unit to see if that helps. The unit may have a problem.

Did you try the setup I told you about in the previous posting of this problem?

I think it may be cleaning the seals so they can do their job again. From the sounds of things with your engine you don't have anything to lose. The engine already is losing oil in a lot of places. If the additive works like it is advertised, it may save you a reseal job that you need already.

It may be an air pump but I'm not sure. If it goes for too long it will discharge your battery. You may have to disconnect the battery to stop it.