Cougar

Don't rule out the radiator cap either. A faulty cap can cause this kind of problem also, at least with the coolant.

Make sure the tires are matched up and have equal wear on them. Mismatched tires can cause very bad things to the drive system, including locking up the shifter for the 4X4.

Glad to hear you got some issues solved. I would suspect the light switch is most likely okay. For the dash light issue I would suspect either the dimmer control is has been bypassed with a direct connection to ground or the LED mod is causing the issue. Due to the diode characteristics of LEDs they don't dim in the same manner as a normal bulb does.

I suggest you have the coolant checked for exhaust gases to see if there is a head gasket leak. If that test shows no problem there then I suggest you replace the used radiator with a new one. I don't think you have a gauge problem. You also might try replacing the radiator cap as a first step. That has helped some folks with this kind of problem and is fairly cheap and very easy to do.

Whenever an open circuit has power applied to it you will measure close to the voltage being supplied to it at any point of the circuit you make the measurement at. This is because there is no current flow in the circuit so there is no voltage drop across any loads in series with that circuit. When the ground return is connected then the current flow will cause voltage drops across any loads in the circuit. Most of the time there is a single load in the circuit so all the voltage drops across it. The blower circuit and dash light dimmer circuits have two loads. A series resistor is used to change the blower speed or light intensity. One safe way to see if the wire is tied directly to power is to use a common test light probe. Clip the lead to ground and touch the probe tip to the wire end in question. If the lead is tied directly to power the test light will turn on with full brightness. If there is something else in series with that wire acting as the load the test light will have less than full brightness or not even light up possibly depending on how much resistance the load has. The higher the normal current draw of the circuit is the brighter the light will be.

Well I guess you have now learned that you can't connect a wire going to power, even though it may be black in color, to a ground point. That is a direct short and fortunately the fuse saved your wiring from being damaged. The fuel pump is usually controlled by a module or the ECU. The power side of the circuit may be switched on your model and the ground for the pump motor run straight to ground. Later models used a controlled ground return. There should be a fuel pump relay somewhere so I suggest you check it to see if something is keeping the relay switched on when it shouldn't be. I don't have a wiring diagram to help you more on that. The dash lights are usually wired to power through the light switch and the return side of the lights is controlled through a module that is tied to the dimmer control though your car may just use a simple variable resistor to control the lights. If the device shown in the second picture is the light switch and dimmer then it appears you just have a resistor for the control. The blower circuit uses a relay on the power side and then it ties to one side of the motor. You should have voltage getting to the motor when the switch is ON if that part is okay. The speed resistors are on the return side of the circuit. So if you manually ground that side of the motor it should turn on full speed when the switch is turned on. If that works and the blower doesn't turn on at any speed then you should replace the resistor pack. The thermal protection fuse may have been blown out in the old one.

The reason you saw voltage on the ground wire was because voltage was applied to the circuit but no current was flowing. The circuit was open, just like it would be if there was a switch in line and it was turned off. Whenever you have an open circuit with power going to it you will measure about the full supply voltage at any point of that open circuit. When the connection to ground is made then current can flow normally and the voltage drop will now appear across any load in that circuit. It there is more than one load in series with that circuit then the loads will share the voltage being supplied to it.

Check to see if voltage is getting to the motor while on high speed. If you don't have voltage on either lead to the blower motor then either a fuse is bad or the blower relay is bad. If you do have voltage getting to that point then look to the resistor pack for the trouble which is mounted to air duct for cooling.

About the only thing I can think that would cause weak spark on one side is the wires or the plugs are damaged. Hopefully you have installed NGK plugs as they work the best. The engine issue does indeed sound like a broken T-belt alright. The info you gave about the trouble is a classic description for that problem. You're running along fine and all of a sudden you got noth'in. It could be a fuel pump issue also. Check the compression on each side and you will find out if it is a T-belt issue. I think the driver side belt drive the disty shaft. You could try spraying some starter fluid into the intake and see what happens. If that doesn't get it fired up then a belt is most likely broken. At least the engine wouldn't be damaged if that is the case. For another test remove the disty cap and verify the rotor spins around while trying to start the engine. If the rotor isn't turning this would explain why you are seeing the difference in spark between to two sides AND the engine won't fire up.

Your attention at noticing the fuel pump wasn't priming is very good. That is a very good clue to this kind of trouble. If you are sure the pump is getting good voltage to it there could be an issue with the return side of the pump if it is controlled by the ECU. I'm not sure how that side of the circuit is setup. I think it ties directly to ground and if so this would mean the pump would have to be at fault if the power to it is okay. You could run power and ground directly to the pump to verify the pump operation. Your other car issue may be due to a plugged fuel filter.

If you are talking about the timing for the injectors I would guess that to be ok. I assume the trouble is only with #3 cylinder and a bad injector would be my top suspect for this kind of problem.

Have you tried swapping the injector out for cylinder 3? I would suspect that injector is leaking since the fuel trim number is so high in the minus direction.

Try cleaning the ground connections under the hood area and see if that helps. Some voltage loss is due to normal wire losses.

Glad you got it working correctly and thanks for the update.

Error code P0107 means that the ECU is seeing a low input from the sensor for some reason. This doesn't necessarily mean that the sensor itself is faulty. After replacing so many sensors this really seems to indicate the problem isn't with the sensor but very well could be with the wire connection to the ECU or the ECU itself could be faulty. Check the resistance from end to end on the sensor output wire to the ECU. Also check for possible connections to ground or power on that wire.

My vote is with the ignitor causing the issue. Whenever you have a starting problem the first thing to determine is if the trouble is due to a fuel delivery problem or ignition issue. Using some starter fluid in the air intake usually makes quick work in determining where the problem is at. If the engine still has no signs of life using the fluid then the ignition system needs to be checked.

I'm a little confused with your reponse to my previous post. Are you saying you have already tried using starter fluid or some gas in the intake and you still get no fire from the engine? If that is the case then you need to be checking for a problem with the ignition system. The ignitor would be my first suspect in that case.

Well if other things are staying in the memory except those three monitors I believe you have some faulty memory positions and are going to have to replace the ECU. There really is nothing else that can cause that kind of issue.

If you think you are having a fuel delivery issue when the engine doesn't start then spray a small amount of starter fluid into the air intake and see if that makes the engine fire.

I suspect there could be a problem with the memory power lead to the ECU but since you say the monitors clear as soon as you shut off ignition power it might possbly mean there is a real problem with the ECU memory and you may have to replace the ECU. Check the fuses in the panel under the hood and make sure power is gets through both sides of each fuse.

I haven't seen any real issue with the outside temp reading with the Soobs we have had. They all read close to the actual outside temperature. You should be able to get the trouble fixed. Hopefully there is just a bad connection to the sensor causing the trouble. There may be a proceedure to check the calibration of the circuit by replacing the sensor with a resistor value of some sort but I don't know for sure.

After reading these posts again I think Mikaleda's thought about the wires being reversed might be correct. Since the regulator lead should be tied directly to the battery then tieing it to something else in series to that lead will cause the voltage at that point to be low. This will make the alternator output to go higher to try and charge the battery back to a normal level. In order to prove which lead should go where after the alternator is replaced check the voltage on each of the two pins of the alternator with the engine off, the alternator connector removed and the main output lead connected normally. Check each of the two pins using a voltmeter referenced to ground. I suspect the warning light lead should tie to the pin that has the lowest voltage reading on it. The other pin will tie to the battery sense lead.

I agree with Gloyale. I think you will find out the alternator is causing the trouble.

It sounds like the battery warning light circuit is working okay and the trouble is with the alternator so I suggest you have it checked. You may have to swap those wires back the way they were. I'm not sure if the newer cars have a three wire design or two. If there are three wires then the ECU may control the regulation of the alternator. In the two wire designs one lead is for the voltage regulator to monitor the battery voltage so it ties to the battery. The other battery warning lead ties to the exciter field windings so that is why it is critcal that battery warning light functions, since it is in series with the circuit. The maximum DC charging voltage should be 15 volts.

I think there is a air vent valve above the fuel tank that is supposed to open every so often and releave the vacuum in the tank.