Cougar

Frag, I assume you are aware of the wire adapter harnesses available to match the new deck with the cars radio plug so you don't have to cut the original wiring up. Check out Crutchfield.com if you are looking for a good place for help and equipment to fit your car. They know their stuff.

Your welcome for the help. Before long you will be another happy Soob owner driving down the road. Just my opinion but I would leave the pump mounted so you don't have a lot of gas leaking out. I would think you could purge the debris out by cycling the pump. I just don't like dealing with fuel because of the danger. As far as listening for the pump, if you turn the ignition on, listen for the pump, then try cranking the engine briefly, and then turn the ignition to off, you should hear the pump again when you turn the ignition to on again. Cranking the engine does something to let the pump run briefly when the key is cycled to off and turned to 'run' again. Maybe the pressure drops. This will verify the pump operation, including the relay. Did you check the fuses and horn? If they are ok and the pump works ok then the next check is the injector. It will either be bad or the signal to it will not be getting there for some reason.

A switch inside that switches the mode is most likely stuck or dirty.

I would see what happens when a new thermostat is installed. If that doesn't help then I would have a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. From what I understand the gaskets can be replaced with the engine in place but it is a lot harder job to do that way.

For Impreza models, check the right side of the dash area for the ECU and test connectors.

I may be thinking of the older style of engines but I think an oil passage got blocked by the gasket if it was reversed. Just make sure no holes get blocked when you install it.

Have you checked the power steering fluid level?

The selector switch is the switch buttons you push to make the changes. This controls where the vacuum is applied to switch vent doors. First, do the vent selections work as they should? Does the air come out in the floor area when you select that, etc?

If the plug wires haven't been changed in a long time then changing them along with the plugs would be good. Perhaps the cap and rotor also. I would recommend you use NGK plugs. I would also fill up the tank using your normal gasoline to help purge out any of the Heet that may be left.

The answer to your question is YES. You didn't state what model car you have but the problem sounds like it is with the vent system. It is operated by the vacuum system. I think if the vacuum fails for whatever reason the defrost mode will be on. I'm not sure though. I would first make sure that you have vacuum to your vent control switch. One other thing I might add. If the blown air seems to change with different selections of the vents then the problem is with the temperature control and not the vent control. I think the temperature control uses the vacuum system also to make changes but I may be wrong. It may be a cable that ties to a vent door.

It sounds like you should purge the fuel line before installing a new fuel filter. You can usually listen for the pump to turn on for a couple of seconds when you turn the key to the 'run' position. You should hear a low hum from under the right rear passenger seat. If that action happens, then the circuit to the pump is ok. Place a container under the hose end to catch the fuel and debris. If you think you need to repeat the cycle then turn the key back to 'off' and then to 'run' again. There are also test connectors near the drivers feet or under the hood that perform some tests when they are connected. They are usually colored green, and black. They put the ECU in a maintenance or test mode. One of the modes at least, maybe both, will make the pump run constantly. But I don't think you need to mess with those right now, just something to be aware of. One other thing that needs to be checked is the fuses, make sure none of them are blown, especially #5. Make sure the horn works, because I think that it is on a circuit that also supplies power to the fuel system. If these tests prove out ok then see if the car will run. Hopefully the problem was just a clogged fuel filter.

Good deal. Thanks for the feedback.

To Sweden: I don't think it is much trouble to get behind the instrument panel. Are you sure that the problem is the gauge and not the sensor or the wiring to the gauge?

I have heard of wire problems with screws and such at areas above the drivers and passengers head, also the map light area.

One thing to be aware of is some heater circuits use the speed switch to complete the ground portion of the circuit. I'm not sure how this one is designed but it may be like that. If that is so then there should be power at the motor but it won't work until the ground portion is completed.

Get a test light and start checking for power at the switch and the wiring to the motor while the switch is on.

I assume the air intake system is ok, clean filter.

Since you put on a fair amount of mileage each year I would lean toward a new car so you will have a warranty to go with it. There are some good deals going on now since the automotive industry is hungry to sell new cars. Also low interest loan rates. You may be able to get a better deal on a new car where you are at than in Montana. If you do decide on a new car, do some real shopping and check out the invoice prices so you will be prepared to do some dealing. If you want an extended warranty, check with your insuance company. They can offer you better prices than the dealer.

Since the problem seems to happen when pressure is applied to the stalk then it would appear that there is a connection problem there.

First thing you might try is change the fuel filters and have the fuel pressure checked. It sounds like a bad fuel pump but try the filter(s) first.

My first thought also was using the synthetic too early. I would have put at least 6k miles on it before switching. You could also try changing the PCV valve to see if that helps.

Nice looking car Zoombaru. I wouldn't call it immaculate but it is in very nice shape, especially for the year. I hope you get. If you have trouble with it let us know what's happening.

You can spray the fluid into what ever point you like, it will get into the engine. Just don't spray a lot, no more than a 2 second shot of fluid. I suspect the engine will try to run with this test. I suspect the injector is not being turned on. The thing that looks like a carburator is called a throttle body.

With the engine off, check to see if the resistance of the TPS changes as you change the throttle. You can have a problem with the TPS and not see a code show up. It depends on the type of TPS problem.

I just read your comment from post #7. The fuel system may be shutting down for some reason. Is this engine carburated or fuel injected?