Cougar

Just a quick note Rooster2. When fuses get blown out it is due to a lack of the proper resistance in the circuit, not a resistance overload. It would be better to say current overload. When resistance goes down in a circuit the current then goes higher. A mechanically jammed motor will certainly cause a high current draw to happen and most likely blow the fuse because it will damage the motor and possibly the wiring to it also if the fuse doesn't blow out.

To see if the fan is bad I suggest you run a fused line directly from the battery and the motor. See if it will run that way. Make sure the motor isn't being jammed.

There is only one blower fan motor. It sounds like it has some shorted windings inside it from what you say about the problem. You also may need to replace the resistor block for the speed control as it sounds like some of them have burned out.

I couldn't have said it better myself Robm. That and faulty ground connections are big trouble makers.

Thanks for the feedback on the issues. In regards to item 5 about the alternator voltage, I think the fuse that you replaced was for the battery sense voltage for the internal regulator. The alternator doesn't need that fuse to work but the regulator will think that the battery isn't getting a charge and go to full output since the sense voltage will be zero if the fuse is pulled out. When the fuse was inserted the regulator now sees what the battery voltage is at and can adjust accordingly.

Well good deal and learning these things is worth the effort.

I can solder Nipper. Why don't you just purchase a decent iron? You don't need to spend a lot to get one.

I wouldn't worry about looking at the wires in the fender until you have proven there is a problem there. If all the fuses seem to be getting good power to them then you need to try and find out if there really is intermittent power to the ECU. Since the ignition relay provides some of the power that is a very good suspect. The grounding should be checked also. I myself have to wonder though if something else is going on to cause the problem. Have you checked to see if there is a broken timing belt causing this trouble. If not you should do that. Using starter fluid really isn't a problem if you use it correctly. I have used it many times without any trouble what so ever. You just need to use a little bit. Like a one second blast on to the air cleaner. There is no way the engine can be damaged doing that. But if you don't like the idea then don't do it. It is a good way to see if the engine will fire up. If the engine won't run on that then there are some basic things that need to be checked out.

See if spraying some starter fluid into the air intake will get the engine going. Do you know if there is spark getting to the plugs?

It would be helpful to have a factory service manual to help you with this. If you have an Owner's Manual check that and see if it shows you the numbers.

I would be very leery of a connection like that. It could cause a loose connection which would eventually cause the stud to get hot and burn the wiring tied to it. I would replace that alternator. As far as testing the fuses leave them in place and check the voltage. You may be see some backfeeding voltage while the fuse is removed and really it isn't a problem. It does seem strange though. Let us know what the voltage is on fuses 14 and 15. What is the trouble you are having now? Does the engine run at all now?

Kerandt is correct. Along with the fusible links, the connector to the ignition switch are the two top suspects for this kind of trouble.

As already mentioned, disconnect the plugs under the dash and hopefully that will solve the problem. The plugs have just one wire going to them and they make a ground connection to the ECU. They are only to be connected when trouble shooting.

To see if you have connection to the speakers you can check the resistance between the two wires going to the speaker. There should be between 3 to 8 ohms between the wires. To see if you have a ground problem on the wires check the resistance of each wire and to ground. If things are isolated like they should be then the reading should show an open condition. The Loyales had one side of the wires for the front speaker leads tied to chassis ground. If you rewired things correctly the resistance check of each speaker will prove it.

A common place to have this kind of trouble is at the fusible links. They can make a loose connection and cause intermittent trouble. They are located in the small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Open the top of the box and check for a loose connection on one of the links. The black link has the highest current draw. If they seem ok then check to voltage getting to them and make sure they are close to the battery voltage. Another problem to look for is the wire connections out of the box. Sometimes they can be faulty. If thoses things are ok then check the voltage on the fuses in the dash with the ignition switch turned on.

The P0325 code is for the sensor circuit, not the sensor. You need to check the wire running between the ECU and the sensor for a problem. First verify the resistance of the wire end to end is ok and also make sure that it isn't somehow making connection to power or ground. The most likely problem is the connection to the sensor itself may be dirty.

I think at least the years '96 to '99 will fit, and possibly '95 also but I'm not real sure of that year.

Welcome to the forum here Shaun. Hopefully we can help you out with this so you can enjoy your Soob better. My info shows an EGR valve is used with a AT transmission and is tied to pin 71 of the ECU via a blk/pink wire. Do you see that on your ECU? If so, then check to see if you can find the 2 pin connector on top of the engine and should have tied to the EGR valve that has grn/blk and yel/red wires going to it.

I have access to my data now so lets see what what we can do to find the trouble here. Earlier, I thought you were working on a Loyale instead of a Legacy. You stated that there seems to be an intermittent power connection causing the trouble so lets find it. My service data shows that there are several sources of power to the ECU that we need to check out. We'll start at points that are easy to check using your meter. Two of the critical points to check are fuses 14 and 15 in the dash panel. Check the voltage on them while trying to crank the engine over and make sure the voltage is steady on them. Use the small slits on top of the fuses to make your measurements. If they are ok then check SBF-2 under the hood and make sure it is ok also. Another thing to check is the fusible link which may be in the panel under the hood. It supplies power to the ignition switch and other areas. Make sure the link is making solid connection. If you think there is a problem with the ground side then stick a pin into one of the ground wires going to the ECU and place jumper wire on the pin going to a known good ground point to see if that changes things.

The problem with the door could be due to a faulty switch contacts that are dirty and just need cleaning or there may be a broken wire in the wire harness located in the door jam. The door switch makes a ground connection to activate the lights. You could use a brake light bulb in series with the battery lead to check things with instead of a meter but certainly a meter is the best choice. When you do the testing be sure all the power systems are turned off like the car would be parked and enough time has lapsed for things to go into the sleep mode, which is pretty quick on those models I believe. Normal current draw should be around 20 milliamps or less. The alternator could be where the current draw problem is at. If you disconnect it be sure to disconnect the battery first since the main alternator lead is hot at all times to the battery. Remove the plug in the back of the alternator also though the ignition switch should isolate that connector. There are fusible links in the plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir you can start the circuit elimination with. Be sure to place the same ones back in the original posiiton as they are color coded for current ratings.

The engine is a non-interference type. A new belt should get you going.

I am certain my '88 GL-10 wagon had a strap on the top of the radiator tied to the front metal channel in front of the radiator. I'm not sure what that piece is called. It is important that the radiator be bonded to ground, like the engine block is also, so no potential difference can build up between the two points that are isolated by the radiator hoses. That is one bad radiator in the picture alright.

Glad to hear you found the problem. The headlights do share a commom relay like Ivans Imports thought. The power for the dash lights is also passed though one of the relays. The grounding for the selected lights is made through the light switch.

You bring up a possible issue here Ivans Imports, talking about the winter season. Perhaps it is the ethenol mixed in the gas that is used during winter months that is damaging the sensors.

I posted this information earlier in another post you made about this issue. Perhaps you didn't see it. I assume the ground wire for the temperature sensor is the same as chassis ground and if so then tieing to the ground of the sensor would be no different than placing one lead of the resistor too chassis ground and the other to the sensor signal lead. Since placing the resistor in series with the signal lead made the meter show cold it means there is too much resistance added. I suggest you try to find a 100 ohm poteniometer and a 100 ohm resistor. Add a couple of test leads to the pot, one lead to the wiper contact and the other to one of the ends of the pot. Then place the two leads in series with the sensor lead and see if you can adjust the pot and make the gauge read what you think it should read according to the engine temperature. If the gauge goes too high still with the pot maxed out then add the 100 ohm resistor to the circuit and try adjusting the pot again. If you find a place that makes the gauge show a valid temperature reading then remove the pot and measure the resistance between the two leads. Then you can purchase a resistor as close to that value as possible. I'm not sure how calibrated the gauge will be if you add the resistor but you could check things using an infrared temperature sensor and compare readings to come up with a correction chart.