Cougar

Try looking the connections and wiring over to see if you can spot a problem. If you didn't clean the cable connections on the battery you should do so and check the belt tension. Look for loose or corrodid connections. If you can't find anything and don't have a meter to check the voltage then I would have a parts store look at it. They may find the problem and be able to sell you some parts to repair it.

I agree with Josh. The alternator is having trouble. Some of the dash warning lights are in the field circuit to the alternator and that is why they light up when the alternator has a problem.

Since you have a fair amount of miles on the engine already you might want to think about getting a rebuilt engine from CCR. It will cost more doing it this way but then you will have a zero time engine basically and can look forward to many more trouble free miles, from the engine at least. The folks at CCR know there stuff so I'm sure you will get the latest revisions in parts.

I think you may have a ground problem. The ground for the headlights goes back to the dash area I believe. It may also be a switch problem. Having your meter handy and a good diagram should help you locate the trouble real quick.

This may be due to carbon buildup. You could also try using premium gas to see if that helps with this problem. If you aren't using NGK plugs already I would get a proper set installed.

Try Allsubaru.com they may have what you want at a discount. Here is a link to there parts request page. http://www.allsubaru.com/html/h_form.html Jamie has given me a good discount when I ordered some manuals there.

It sure is, as is most all power accessories.

If you find the CEL light is really good but the light still doesn't work let me know. I have seen the IC go bad in the ECU that drives the light. The circuit makes a ground for the light when it is turned on. There is a replacement chip available to fix it.

I am not sure what you mean by the "tak" sound. If you mean that to say that the starter motor isn't turning the engine over, then changing the sensor will not help with this problem but you do need a new sensor anyways. If the starter is intermitant and the connections an leads have been checked for a problem then you most likely have some bad solenoid contacts in the starter as was suggested by Commuter. These can be replaced for less than $10 in parts costs.

I would take the car to a good body shop and let them look things over after you explain what happened. They may find some damage you can't see. If you wait too long, you may not be able to make a claim for this if there is some damage found.

You may have a problem with the vent door or the control to it.

You may have a problem with the vent door or the control to it.

My first check would be to see if there is some sort of fuel restriction. If that is ok then I would check the MAF sensor for a problem. Check for any vacuum leaks also.

Someone else worked on these and was able to change the lights. I think the lights are accessed by removing the front cover but I'm not sure.

It very well could be the pump is going out. You may want to check the fuel pressure before changing the pump to verify the suspected part.

I would also suspect the fuel pump is the culprit.

I suppose you may mave some bad bearings in it. I have had to replace the idler pulley bearing before, in my old '88 wagon. If you have one I would check that out. Also, are you sure this is not belt slippage you are hearing?

Well I guess your morning is pretty well taken up. At least you should have the afternoon to relax a little, lol. Do you have a list of devices that this fuse delivers power to that you could show us?

I don't think you should replace the alternator. If there was trouble with it you would see problems with other areas also and not just this one fuse. Since you had a warning light come on for the transmission I would suspect that area first. I would make a list of all the devices powered by this fuse. Most suspected parts I would think are any motors, solenoids or devices using wire coils.

By touching the yellow wire to ground I think Flow was trying to test the fan circuit. By grounding the wire and having the fan turn on , this would prove the wiring and power to the fan is ok, and the themoswitch is bad.

Hi Dusan, Here is a link you can use to look things over. http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/shoppingHome.jsp

I would take the car into the shop and have a block check done. This is a simple and inexpensive test to see if there are hydrocarbons in the coolant. There will be no guessing with this test. I had to have my '88 wagon resealed at around 60k miles and then again about 1000 miles later. I had a shop that trained student techs do the first job. Saved a lot of money over a regular shop but they didn't use Subaru headgaskets so I had to do it again, and really paid a lot then. The second go around was done by independent factory trained techs and that lasted. The moral of the story... don't trust repair of your Soob to anyone except a trained Soob tech and one that uses genuine factory gaskets at least.

I wouldn't say that this is a bad unit just going by the resistance reading. That is only a 10% error, which is a very resonable error when it comes to this kind of thing. I think that you are measuring the resistance of a coil of wire really and it either opens or closes a valve I think. If you had a reading of 70 ohms or 20 ohms then I would be concerned. As far as the resistance goes, I think it is ok, but there could be a mechanical problem with this unit.

Welcome to the forum. Good to have another Soob fanatic on board. I think some fixes are best left up to the pros and when it comes to wheel alignment I think this is one of those areas. They have the special tools needed for the job. The bearing problem may be due to a warped hub possibly and is putting excessive pressure on the bearing. I would speak to a shop mechanic and tell him what has gone on in the past. The starting problem may be due to a intermitant ignition switch as suggested. Also check the fuseable links for a loose connection problem. I would have a test light handy for when this problem happens again. You may want to keep it in the car. Study the circuit to power the starter solenoid and then check out some key test points that you can get to and check for power, like the switched 'start' side of the ignition switch. With the proper testing and tools you should be able to pin this down fairly fast.

Glad you got it going Subie. Thanks for the feedback and your welcome for the help.