Cougar

Glad you got it Kevin. Thanks for the update.

You may be able to track this problem down by tapping on things like OLT suggested. Hopefully you just have a loose wire connection to something. I like to use a rubber handled screwdriver to tap on things with the handle end to help find problems like this. While running the engine I would start with the ECU and the wires near it, and while under the dash try the relays there also. The fuse panel may be suspect also along with the fuse links. Your best clue to me sounds like the power for the areas that help start the engine and keep it running . You stated that you could not even crank the engine so it even may just be the ignition switch that is at fault or the power relays it turns on, so give it a whack also. Keep us posted on the progress.

Thanks for the tip K9Leader.

Your resistance numbers make sense Skip. You must be right. My estimate of less than 1 ohm is too low, now that I do a little mental calculation. If things were like I was thinking, a person may not be able to stay seated very long if you left the heater on. They would really be in the hot seat. Thanks for the info.

Richie, I ran into a similar problem with a vehicle I purchased off of Ebay. The person I purchased the car from tried to sign over the title to me when the car wasn't registered in his own name. He kept it for a year and never bothered to register it. The solution to my problem was to purchase a bond from a insurance company. I only had a copy of the title as I sent the original back to the seller to try and straighten it out but never got it back. I also had to provide a certified value of the car to the DMV. Not sure if this will help you or not. PS. I still have those nice rims you sold to me. Best regards.

Your right Skip, that would make a difference. Especially for weak push rods. Maybe if they were near the hinge area it would be ok and would sound better I would think. Something to think about Scooby.

It does sound like you do have a broken heater in the seat. As far as getting a resistance reading I would guess you should see something less than 1 ohm. You should be able to compare readings from the back and bottom connections, if you can get a reading from the bottom section. You could also use the drivers seat for a reference. It would be nice to know how much power these seats need to work. I would guess about 20 to 30 watts.

Glad to hear your enjoying the new system. I am wondering if your old speakers were really isolated from ground in the first place. It sounds like they were all along, unless the ground was before the connector. I am really curious about this since you should not be able to tie the balanced output of the deck to ground without damage to the output. You can purchase extension covers I think to help with the install of the new deck. It sounds like you have other issues though.

Scooby, did you isolate the speakers from the ground connection?

Here is a link to some folks that may be able to help you out. You still will have to run a wire from each speaker back to the new deck to eliminate the ground problem I believe. New stereo systems use a balanced output compared to the older single ended output design that shared the common ground. The design of the newer power amplifier IC's has the output leads floating from ground so you need to isolate the speakers from ground. http://www.123av2.com/DetailPage.asp?ProductID=SISSU01B

Here is a link too one posted on Ebay for your convenience. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2452566096&category=33548

Thanks for the good picture Snowman. Glad you made the trip ok and hope the operation on Roxanne goes well.

You stated that you replaced the dimmer control and it made no difference. Did you check to see if voltage is getting to the dimmer control? You should be able to put a test light on the dimmer output line and make the test light dim. Another thought to see if the dimmer is working is to see if the clock light or radio dims, though it may not be on the dimmer circuit. I would also pull out one of the dash lights to see if it is burned out. It may be all the lights are burned out but I doubt it. If the bulb is good and you have voltage adjustment from the dimmer control I would check the main connection on the dash for a bad connection.

I have to agree with the other posters about the head gasket(s). You could get a block check done to verify the problem but I really don't think the story will change sorry to say. My recommendation is, if you want to keep the car for at least several more years, would be to contact CCR about a rebuilt engine and then you would have a warranty on a rebuilt. These folks really know how to rebuild a Subaru engine. I don't think you will be disappointed. The cost may be fairly high but in the long run it will pay off I beleive. Here is a link to them if you want to contact them: http://www.ccrengines.com/

It's about 10 above here in Anchorage currently Snowman. Hope you make it with no troubles.

To Buddy: Have you checked the dash light dimmer control to see if that is set right? To MDD: Since you say the lights turn on with the parking light switch I would have to say your wiring to the lights is ok. I suspect your problem may be in the light switch. I would get a service manual for your car so you could look for places to check for a problem. You should verify the switch is the problem first before replacing it.

Your welcome for the help. As your father probably explained to you about this, the sensor tells the ECU (engine or electronic control unit) what the temperature of the engine is by its' resistance. As the engine temperature changes, the resistance of the sensor changes. The ECU sees these resistance changes as current changes in the circuit due to the changing resistance. As the engine warms up, the sensor will let the ECU know to send less fuel to the engine as it needs less when warm.

I doubt that it is the temperature sensor for the ECU causing this but I suppose it could be. I would check the resistance of it while it is cold before replacing it to confirm it is bad. Things I think you should look into to help with this are as follows: 1. If you leave the car outside are you using the correct oil viscosity for the temperature outside? If the starter turns slowly you may need a lighter grade oil. 2. Are the sparkplugs in good condition? 3. If you have a cold start valve, what is it's condition?

You can check speaker porlarity this way. Also you can listen to the sound and hear the difference. When the two speakers are wired out of phase with each other the sound field will not be focused. Try it out sometime with a home stereo. Sit in the middle between the speakers, with you and the speakers forming a perfect triangle, and wire one out of phase. Then listen how the sound field is. When the wiring is in phase the sound imaging make it like the stage is right in front of you and the sound doesn't appear to be coming from the speakers. Your in the zone then.

Thanks for the backup Skip. When I replaced the alternator in my '88 wagon I purchased a Bosch unit from a good electrical shop. It cost around $135, 6 years ago. It never gave me any problems for as long as I had it after the purchase. Since your battery sounds like it has some problems also (not holding a charge), and the possibly of heat damage like Skip mentioned, you will be putting less stress on your new alternator with the purchase of a new battery. You shouldn't have any more charging problems for some time by doing this. One other thing to check is the wire that runs between the alternator output and the positive battery post. Make sure it is in good shape so that the alternator gets its' full charge to the battery. By measuring the voltage drop across the wire while you are running the engine around 2,000 RPM, with the lights on, you should not see more than about 0.25 volts across the wire.

I am pretty sure the regulator is inside the alternator. You should replace the whole alternator and I would recommend you replace the battery also with it. It is best to change them out together. The price for the alternator is inline in my book.

Your fuses should be numbered Joe. Can you tell me what the number is you are having trouble with. As a guess, it looks like it may be 11 or 12. These fuses supply power to a lot of places and you may need to purchase a service manual to track this down. Another thought would be to see if there is any added equipment to this car. Something like a stereo or trailer hitch that is not a standard option from the factory. These can be sources of trouble when installed poorly.

I have a manual for an '88 Joe that may be close to the same as yours. It would help to know the number of the fuse you are having trouble with. Do you know what is not working when the fuse is blown? You should look at the things that don't work. You could isolate them and see if the fuse blows when they are not connected. If the fuse is ok then start adding things back on line.

I'm not sure why you thought changing the temperature sensor would help this problem. Your car may have a cold start valve and that would be a good possibility, if it does. How are your plugs and wires? These could be a problem if they are old. Since you are getting a backkfire, you should check your timing. The problem with the no starter action may be due to bad battery connections, worn starter solenoid contacts, or worn brushes.

I would check for a bad connection in the main wiring at the drivers control panel. It also may be a broken wire in the wire harness that runs through the door jamb. It will need a test light at least to look for voltage. I think there is a breaker for the main power to run through.