Cougar

Thanks for the info Naru. Those resistance readings that were stated for the TPS seemed way off to me.

From the way you describe the trouble it sounds like the problem might be due to the radio generating a RF signal and radiating it out to the keyless entry system. The signal may be being carried by the radio antenna or the radio may have a faulty ground. To see if the radio antenna is involved you could simply disconnect it from the radio and see if that helps. To eliminate a possible bad ground you could try adding a temporary ground jumper to the radio chassis and see if that makes a difference. You also stated the locks were not working for a bit so there may be a grounding problem with them.

The code 24 can be caused by an electrical problem with the device or the wiring to it. Either there is a intermittent problem with the wiring to the air valve that is causing the code or a problem with the valve itself. I think there is an intermittent problem with the valve itself and suggest you replace it. Hopefully the troubles will go away then.

The resistance readings that you stated for the throttle sensor seem too low to me. Are you sure those are the correct numbers? Did you leave off a multiplier like 'k' ohm? The resistance to chassis ground would make a large dfference if the numbers you stated were true.

One of the wire colors going to the motor should also go to the proper relay.

Well hopefully you haven't jumped the gun in ordering parts that you haven't yet proved are bad. The info I am looking at shows there are a few relays in the upper far left side of the dash area. The blower relay should be one of them. I assume that when you made the voltage test that you had the fan switch turned on to some sort of speed setting, otherwise the test isn't valid.

The relay is under the dash and is near three other relays if I recall correctly. I wouldn't bother checking the relay unless you find there no voltage getting the motor leads.

Check to see if you have 12 volts getting to the IAC valve. You may have to replace the valve. I would suspect the other codes are being caused by a common power link problem to the sensors.

Even though there are numerous bonds to ground on the chassis this problem appears to be related to a grounding problem somewhere. Making a temporary ground jumper connection to the rear light will easily prove it. The trouble could be with the left rear quarter panel area. There also may be more than one bad bonding connection.

The ground wire coming from the bulb socket should be black in color. You don't need to splice it. Just follow it until you find the place it makes connection to the chassis of the car. You could try just removing the connection and cleaning the surfaces of the contact points to see if that fixes it. If it doesn't then try running a temporary jumper to the socket body of the lamp and a good ground to see if that changes things. Also clean the battery to chassis ground as that is most likely where the problem is really at. The high current needed for the headlights is causing an excessive voltage drop on a chassis ground.

I think you have a grounding problem causing the trouble. A simple way to prove it is to tie a temporary jumper ground wire between the negative battery terminal and to the left rear turn signal ground. If the trouble clears then you know that is the case. You could also check the voltage between those points while the trouble is occurring to see if there is a voltage drop. Normally there should be no voltage drop happening. Clean the battery to chassis ground and also the left rear ground and any other bonding grounds.

An easy way to check the voltage going to the blower is to check it at the fuse. Place the common probe of the meter to a good ground point on the chassis and the other probe on one of the slits on the top of the fuse. Don't worry about checking the voltage across the resistors. If the blower doesn't work then check the voltage at the motor connections while the blower is connected. See if there is voltage on the leads using ground as your reference and checking one lead at a time. If there is not voltage getting to the leads then the blower relay needs to be checked. If both leads have about 12 volts on them then the trouble is most likely with the resistor pack. If only one lead has voltage getting to it then the motor is bad. You could also verify the motor by applying power directly to it from the battery.

The trouble you describe seems a little strange. The pump seems to work okay in the test mode but not in the normal running mode. I think it would be good to prove the rest of the engine is working okay by spraying a small amount of starter fluid into the intake to see if the engine will run that way. If the problem is just with the fuel delivery then the engine should start up with no trouble using the starter fluid to get it going.

If the fuse is blown then check the trailer hitch wiring, if you have that in place, for a problem. Another thing to check is a short to ground at one of the light sockets due to burned wire insulation.

The info I looked at shows that code 24 is for 'Air control valve or circuit', for a 88 or later model. The trouble could be electrical.

The charging voltage shouldn't exceed 15 volts DC and the AC voltage should be less than .1 volt while the engine is running 1500 RPM.

Fuses protect electrical devices by limiting the current through the device and circuit, not voltage. If the blower motor doesn't work at any speed then check to see if voltage is getting to each side of the motor connections using chassis ground as the meter reference and with the speed switch set to high. If you have 12 volts on each side of the motor leads then you most likely need to replace the resistor pack that is mounted on the air duct. If there is voltage only seen on one of the motor leads then the motor is bad. The way the circuit is designed is fused power goes to a relay, then through the motor, through the speed switch, and then to ground.

See if cleaning the engine and chassis grounds makes any improvement. Use a fine wire brush and wipe them clean with a cloth.

I think you have solved the trouble.

The signals displayed on the ol' Tektronix scope look good. Since the trouble wasn't happening at the time it still doesn't eliminate them as the source of the trouble. If you have some spares it may be best to just swap the original ones out and see if that helps.

Well it sounds like you are making progess since you found the loose rotor. I still have to wonder about the hissing injector. It sounds like air may be getting by the seal for injector. Have you checked for that?

Well so much for the intake gaskets, I really thought that was it. Can you run a temporary ground jumper from the battery to the MAF sensor to try and eliminate that extra resistance to ground? It may not help but hopefully it is a simple thing to try out and eliminate that as a potential problem. Also, if you haven't yet cleaned the engine and chassis grounds I suggest you do that. Another simple thing to do. Faulty grounding can cause various issues. The trouble is beginning to sound to be either due an electrical problem or a fuel problem. The hissing injector makes me wonder also. Could that be due to air leaking into the fuel delivery somehow?

Like Naru, I was thinking of the crank sensor also. Perhaps the signal gets noisey and causes the problem to occur.

Glad to hear you have the factory service data. Not many folks have it but to me it is 'priceless'. If you haven't checked the power distribution of wiring and fuse panels yet in the manual I suggest you do that and verify what that fuse supplies power to.

I don't have access to my service data right now. The circuit may also provide power the transmission area possibly, I'm not sure. I suggest you visit Ebay and purchase a wiring manual for the car. You can get CDs that cover the entire car and are factory manuals for a very modest price. It will tell you everything the fuse is tied to (unless someone has modified it) so you can check the areas out. If any mods have been made I would check those out first for a problem.