Cougar

Thanks for the info on the grounding specs guys. Even though the spec may be up to 10 ohms I usually find the real numbers are close to zero generally when the grounds of the engine and chassis are in good condition. As far as Ohm's Law goes, it isn't an approximation and there's nothing fishy about it, it's THE LAW. If something doesn't measure what the calculation says it should be then something in the circuit or the measurment process hasn't been accounted for. I still think the intake manifold gaskets are causing the trouble, but I could be wrong.

The resistance to ground reading seems a little high to me. I suggest you clean the engine and chassis ground connections with a wire brush to see if you can get the 3.6 ohm reading closer to zero. The -16 reading you got intermitently indicates there is a voltage drop occurring on the lead which shouldn't happen if the wiring is correctly grounded. You stated you hear a hissing sound and I have to wonder if you really hearing a leak in the intake manifold gaskets. This is a common problem for those cars. I suggest you spray some WD-40 around them while the engine is running to see see if that changes the idle speed that would point to a leak and a lean condition.

Try spraying some WD-40 around the intake manifold gaskets while the engine is running to see if you have some air leaks there.

If you don't have voltage getting to the blower while the problem is occurring then the most likely suspect is the blower relay.

If you haven't cleaned the battery connections yet then do that. You also might try clipping on a heavy ground wire between the alternator body and the negative battery lead to see if there is a problem there. Clean the chassis grounding wires also. Another thing you could try is disconnecting the main output lead at the alternator and see if you still see the voltage ramping up on the output stud. Be careful with the wire end, as you most likely already know that wire is hot at all times, so keep it isolated. If the voltage is still changing then it would seem to me the internal voltage regulator has a problem. There could be an issue with the brushes also since the trouble seems to be related to the RPMs. My compliments to you on having such a fine piece of test equipment as the FLUKE 289 DVM. You are correct about the AC voltage. You should normally never see anything above .1 volt while the engine is running. Less is best in this case.

Check this out. It is the best 30 dollars you could spend on the car. I had to pay over 100 dollars for my set when they were new. Others are asking between 90 and 140 dollars for their sets. This deal is about like stealing candy from a baby. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-SUBARU-SERVICE-MANUAL-SECTION-1-2-3-4-5-and-6-Set-of-4-Complete-/230895764899?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item35c275c5a3&vxp=mtr

If you aren't getting power to the dash when you turn the key to the RUN position then the fusible links need to be checked. You may have blown one out. Use a meter to verify power is getting to the protected side of the link. The trouble could also be with the wire from the battery to the links. If that area is ok then you need to see if power is getting to the ignition switch.

Check the coolant to see if exhaust gases are getting into it. Even though you checked the compression it sounds like a gasket leak to me. If that checks ok then I would have to think the radiator would be suspect.

I think they place the antenna wires in the rear quarter panel window on the driver's side of the car for the wagons. Along with checking the amplifier also make sure all the antenna connections are making good contact. There may be a faulty connection in the line. Check the connection at the radio also. It would be nice to know how the AM reception is. It usually is effected more than the FM band is when having a antenna problem. It is possible that the sensitivity of the radio FM band may be causing the issue but more likely the antenna system is at fault.

I suggest you test things before swapping it out. You may find out the trouble is really with the inhibit switch.

Faulty headlight connectors are a common problem. Some get so bad that the connector has to be replaced. Replacements are available that can be spliced into the old wires.

I think the relay the manual was referring to is the starter solenoid. Usually when the solenoid contacts go bad and need to be replaced you can hear the single click from the solenoid closing but since the contacts to the starter motor are bad you don't get the motor to turn on. The no click action usually means the inhibit switch is not working which prevents voltage to get to the solenoid lead when in the START mode. Checking the voltage on the solenoid lead while the problem is occurring will show if power is getting to the solenoid lead or not.

As was already suggested you might try disconnecting the front O2 sensor to see if that changes things.

Thanks for the update and glad to hear you got it fixed.

That's a great price for a new one and that should fix you right up.

You're not a virgin anymore. Now you know about the switch.

You should really use a battery charger to get the battery charged back up again instead of relying on the alternator to do it.

As was already stated, you should have power going to the starter solenoid lead when in the START position. The power turns on the solenoid which then makes the electrical connection from the battery to the starter motor windings. The car is at the age where the solenoid contacts wear down and cause this trouble. The contacts are replaceable if you want to service the starter. I'm almost certain that either replacing the starter or fixing it will solve your trouble.

Yep! It's another 'virgin switch' problem. Turn the switch off that's mounted on top of the steering column.

The trouble might be due to a problem inside the alternator. Disconnect it and see it the trouble stops. Be careful with the main lead since it is hot to the battery.

If everything fits to the old one I don't see problem using it. The engines are basically the same thing.

Well I doubt the trouble you had was due to frozen fuel. I think gasoline freezes around the -150 degF range. You may have some water in the fuel and that caused the issue. Try spraying some starter fluid into the intake the next time you have an issue like that to see if that helps you out.

Well done!

From what you say I think the radiator should be replaced also. They do go bad over time. You might also have the coolant checked for exhaust gases to see if there is a head gasket leak.

If the plug on the back side of the alternator isn't connected to the alternator then the battery will not be charging. You would find that out in a very short time. The clicking you talk about sounds like there was a bad connection to the battery. This can happen even if the connection looks ok. A surface layer can form on the posts that will prevent a good solid connection. It prevents the battery from getting a full charge and will cause the starter solenoid to click due to lack of enough current to drive the starter motor. Keep the battery posts clean and seal them with a spray sealer. You should be good to go now for a long time.