Cougar

If you still want to test the pump you can apply 12 volts to the motor leads and see what happens. Make sure to try and get the polarity correct. You stated earlier the voltage drop was happening more upsteam in the wiring so then you will need to find out where that is happening. It may be at the pump relay.

The fuel pump power only stays on for a couple of seconds after you turn the ignition on if the engine isn't running. You should be able to hear the pump run when you turn the key to the ON position. See if you can hear the pump turn on. If you can't hear it then you should make sure the fuses under the hood and dash are all ok. If they are good then you should check the fuel pump relay power connections.

The fact that the connector was melted means there was a bad connection at that point and that is why the supply voltage to the pump was low. Bad connections cause a voltage drop to occur when current flows through the added resistance. Repairing or replacing the bad connection should allow full voltage to get to the pump motor.

If you haven't checked the fusible links under the hood yet using your test light probe to make sure they are ok, I suggest you do that next. The green link should supply power to fuse 1 in the dash panel. Make sure that fuse has power getting to it. Most likely the fusible link is bad or it has a bad connection.

I think the selector switch uses a vacuum line from the engine in order to control the selected mode, so check the vacuum line to the selector switch.

This kind of thing happens because the warning lights are in the field circuit of the alternator which allows the lights to be tested before the engine is running. When the alternator has a problem it usually effects the warning lights also.

To confirm a fuel delivery problem I suggest you spray a little starter fluid into the intake and see if the engine fires up then when you try to start it. When turning the key from OFF to ON you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds, after that it shuts down if the engine isn't running. That would verify power is getting to it if you hear it.

You could try tieing power directly to the antenna motor leads and see if that makes it work.

I presume the blue wire ties power between the fuel pump relay and the pump and you are measuring a low voltage at the pump end of the wire, even with the pump disconnected. If you have 12 volts on both sides of the relay contacts when the relay is on then this means there is a problem with the blue wire. It has a high resistance along the line somewhere.

I'm not sure what the difference in the ECUs is but I would suspect they are the same in the area you are trying to prove out. The Main relay connects power coming from SBF-2 to the ECU and also to a number of things for the engine.

You are correct about the ECU triggering the relay. Check to see if any of the other fuses in the dash have power getting to them while the trouble happens. Perhaps there is another path bridging power to a place it shouldn't be. I tend to think though replacing the ECU is going to be needed. There are a couple of wires tied to the ECU that are connected to the relay contacts. One of those may be where the trouble is at. If you pulled one at a time to see if that stops the problem it would prove that the ECU is the problem.

By disconnecting the relay before checking the power to the coil windings you may have changed things. Please let me know if fuses 1, 8, and 15 in the dash panel have voltage getting to them while the trouble is happening. Don't remove the relay. If there is voltage getting to them then there may be a problem with the ignition switch. The trouble may also be something is crossing the fused circuits in the dash fuse panel.

The Main Relay is controlled by the ECU I believe so it may have a fault inside it. Something inside it isn't turning off until power is disconnected and resets things.

It sounds like the clutch disk is worn out and needs to be replaced. That is why it is slipping badly. As for the starter problem it sounds like the solenoid contacts are worn out. You can replace them or install a rebuilt starter. You may want to think about how much time and money you want to invest in this vehicle, though it is pretty neat.

Since it appears the Main Relay is being turned on when it shouldn't be check to see if the fuses in the dash panel have voltage getting to them while the ignition switch is OFF. If there some getting power then you might need to replace the switch.

It does appear there is a bridge to ignition power somewhere and hopefully pulling fuses one at a time will tell us which fuse circuit the bridge is tied to.

Glad you got it going and you're welcome for the help. You might try changing the fuel filter if you haven't done that already.

Test a link electrically just like you would any other fuse because that is what it is, just in a different form. You can usually determine if a link is bad by just bending the middle of it. A bad link will usually bend real easy in the middle since the wire will be burned open there. If the links are getting and passing voltage ok then make sure all the fuses in the dash panel are getting voltage to them while the ignition is ON. If that is ok then we need to check power to the ignition relay and see why power isn't getting to the ECU. Perhaps there is a broken wire somewhere. We need to get power to the ECU before any other testing is done.

If the ECU isn't getting power to it then the fusible links need to be checked, and if they are ok then the ignition relay needs to be checked like Mugs stated earlier. The ignition switch is a possibility also.

I again suggest you verify power is getting to things like the fuses, plus side of the coil, and the injectors. A blown fusible link could be causing the trouble.

It sounds like you are now on track. I will watch the video when I get a chance to. I don't have the time right now.

You need to see why the 60 amp fuse isn't getting power to it. I assume it is used as the main power fuse. Somehow, it should be tied back to the positive battery post. It also may be used for the charging circuit and a larger fuse is used for the main connection to power. Usually the fuse is around 80 to 100 amps in the newer vehicles but yours may be less. NOTE: Sometimes the main power connection from the battery to the main fuse panel under the hood is connected by a fusible link. A link looks like a ordinary piece of wire and is designed to handle a specific amount of current. They are current rated by color coding the insulation of the wire. You may have this type of connection and the link is blown which can be hard to see visually at times. When they blow out the middle section of the link flexes easier than the rest of it. Of course power will be seen on the battery side of the connection but no voltage will be seen on the other side of the blown connection if that is the case.

Adrian, you stated you replaced the main 60 amp fuse and have no power to it. Battery power is provided to the distribution panel under the hood usually by a smaller red wire tied to the positive battery post along with the main battery cable to the starter solenoid. Sometimes manufacturers come off the connection there at the solenoid for the power wire to the fuse panel under the hood. You just need to find where the connection comes from and look for the break in the wire. You also stated you didn't replace the wire from the fuse to the starter and the main cable to the starter solenoid so that sounds like that is causing the trouble. A very simple problem. Your vehicle may also have some fusible links inside a small plastic box that will feed to various things in the van. Once you get power to the fuse panel under the hood then hopefully power will get to the ignition switch and to other things. Make sure the negative side of the battery has a good ground connection to the chassis and the main cable to the engine block for the starter grounding.

Welcome to the forum Adrian. It sounds like you have a lot of good knowledge already to work on your project so, good job and nice van. If you need some help with getting the starter going let us know.

If you are still having touble with voltage dropping while in the START position check the fusible links for a loose connection. They are inside the small black plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir. If you need to verify the starter is working ok then make sure the transmission is not in gear and connect a jumper wire to the small solenoid wire on the starter solenoid. Then make sure all things are clear of the engine area and touch the other end of the wire to the positive battery post. The starter should then turn the engine over if it is working ok.