Cougar

I doubt this trouble is due to a sensor problem unless it is with the MAF or CTS sensors. Another thing to check out that seems to have been missed so far is a faulty Ignition Relay. Restarting the car could correct bad relay contacts.

In order to rule out a bad ground I suggest you connect up a jumper wire to the case of the regulator and a good ground point to the chassis of the car to see if that fixes the trouble. If that doesn't help then we need to check other things. I recommend you don't make any adjustments to the regulator screws, at this point at least. They should be set to the correct voltage settings already.

All the items you mentioned will be under the hood and are part of the AC system. Check Ebay for some copies of factory manuals. You can also purchase them from Subaru.

I wonder if you are connecting the wires properly to the regulator. Looking at the schematic drawing that was provided earlier check the connection from the ignition switch, which is shown above the battery, and make sure it is going to the proper terminal of the regulator. Does the battery warning light stay on when the ignition switch is OFF? If it does then either the connections are wrong or the ignition switch is bad. Make sure the ignition switch isn't causing the trouble also. I doubt it is causing this trouble but it is possible it imay not be disconnecting power when it is in the OFF position.

Checking for power would certainly be the logical thing to do. Start with the fuses. Make sure they are ok and power is getting to the one for the locks. If that area is ok then you need to look for a bad wire connection to power.

Hopefully you didn't skin the knuckles too badly. Thanks for the update and glad you found the trouble.

FSM= Factory Service Manual. The best and most detailed information you can get about your vehicle. Just like the credit card advertisment says, 'Priceless'.

Check to see if power is getting to the plus side of the ignition coil while the ignition switch is ON. If you don't have voltage there then make sure the fusible links are ok since you checked the fuses already. The fuses may be ok but still not be getting power. The links are inside the plastic box mounted on the coolant resevoir. Also check for loose connections there.

Since the r/y power supply wire voltage dropped to zero volts when you placed the motor across the leads that means there is a bad connection to power on the r/y wire. When no load is placed on the wire no current will flow so the meter sees 12 volts on the wire. But when a low resistance is tied to it like the blower motor, current will then flow and all the supply voltage gets dropped across the high resistance in the series circuit, which is the bad connection. The circuit basically sees the motor resistance just as a connection to ground. Check wire connection at the fuse panel for a problem. Hopefully the trouble is there. If it isn't there then perhaps there is a connector involved that has a bad connection.

Before you replace the battery it may be a good idea to have it tested and see what the condition of the battery really is. You may not need to replace it yet. When making voltage measurements it is helpful to know some things about where the test is made and what you are working with to make the test. Voltage measurements taken from the dash area are always going to be somewhat lower than ones taken at the battery due to wire losses. It shouldn't be a lot but it is some small amount. Also the device you are using to make the measurement can effect the results. Using a DVM meter is best since it will have a very high input impedance and place a very small load on the circuit, which will give a more accurate voltage reading. A meter with a low input resistance will cause the reading to drop down some due to loading on the circuit under test.

Make sure the charging system is working ok also. If it isn't then replacing the battery isn't going to help much. Make sure the fan belt is tight. With the battery voltage at 10.8 volts unloaded I am surprised you can make anything work, let alone the starter.

From what you say I wouldn't go right out and replace the ECU unless it is absolutely comfirmed that the signal coming from the ECU to turn on the AC fan isn't working when it should be. It sounds to me that there is a bad wire connection somewhere that is causing the trouble or a faulty fan relay. Proper trouble shooting will confirm the real problem. If the trouble really is within the ECU you can purchase a rebuilt one for a reasonable cost and I don't think any programming is needed to make it work in your car. Sometimes programming is needed for extra options in some cars but I don't think Subaru has any of these, that I know of anyways. Removing the ECU from under the dash is fairly easy to do.

You should be able to get one from NAPA.

The first thing you should check is the fusible links and fuses to make sure they are ok. If they are good then you need to make sure that voltage is getting to the regulator and the alternator field connection on the back side of the alternator when the ignition switch is ON. Power gets to those areas through the ignition switch.

Glad you found the trouble and thanks for the update.

When you made the current test did you wait long enough to make sure the systems were in the sleep mode? Now that I think about it, that amount of current draw may be about the correct amount when systems haven't gone to sleep yet.

That's too much draw. Somethings not right. Here is a link that will help you find the trouble. http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

When things are in the sleep mode you might see around 15 milliamps. Anything below 30 milliamps is good.

As you know Mike you should only have zero ohms on the BY wire when the speed switch is in the high position so you have some trouble there. Since there is only 5 volts on the connector without a load the relay is most likely bad. You should see 12 volts at that point with, or without a load.

Another thing you can do with your meter is check the voltage on the B/Y wire going to the motor, with the meter reference to ground, while things are connected normally, and the speed switch is on HIGH. If that part of the circuit is ok then you should see close to zero volts at that point. If that checks out move the meter probe to the other motor lead which will be the power side of the circuit. You should see 12 volts there if the fuse and relay are ok. If the voltage is low then either the relay connection or the fuse connection is bad.

Since this is a automatic the trouble could very well be with the inhibit switch instead of the battery cable.

One thing you can try doing to see if the relay is the trouble is simply tap on it using a screwdriver handle. If it is bad it will usually make the motor turn on for at least a brief period.

I think the relay is near the dash fuse panel but not real sure of that. One simple thing you can do to prove the resistor pack is the trouble is to check for voltage at the blower motor while it is supposed to be running. Turn the speed switch to maximum speed. Then see if there is voltage getting to both of the blower motor leads while things are connected normally. If you do have 12 volts at those points then the fuse and the relay is ok and the trouble is with the resistor pack most likely. You should be able to ground the lead of the motor that ties to the resistor pack and it will turn on the motor if that is correct. Just make sure you don't ground to power side of the motor leads. The grounding side for motor passes through the resistor pack so directly grounding the wire on the motor return side simply bypasses the resistor pack.

If you verify that 12 volts is getting to the small solenoid wire on the starter when you go to the START position then you have pretty much proven the trouble is with the main battery cable. If you don't have 12 volts there and is something a lot less then the starter safety circuit needs to be checked for the trouble.

LOL. That's a good one Nipper. :-p The trouble could be with the ignition circuit going to the solenoid like you say GD. Instead of adding another device to the circuit I would opt to fix the real trouble. Like you also stated, the percentages are with the main battery cable.