Cougar

Unless the slipping is extremely bad I wouldn't think that would cause the warning lights to turn on. The voltage regulator could have an intermittent problem and may be causing the things to run higher than normal. The warning light circuit is tied to the field circuit of the alternator and is at ground potential when the alternator isn't running. The lights turn on with power provided from the ignition switch. When the alternator gets going it provides power to the field lead also and that turns the light off, unless there is a problem with the alternator.

The trouble is most likely with the relay as you suspected. Sometimes you can confirm that by tapping on it with something like a screwdriver handle and that will turn on the device.

If you have MPFI, pressures may be around 60psi before the regulator and perhaps 35psi after it.

The test circuit for the warning lights runs through the alternator field circuit. To verify that the trouble is within the alternator disconnect the connector on the back side of the alternator and then turn on the ignition to the RUN position. If things are ok with the wiring the warning lights should not turn on and it means the trouble is within the alternator. If the warning lights still turn on then there is a short to ground somewhere on the field lead of the rear connector to the alternator. I think the wire color is white/red or possibly white/black. The lead will have no voltage on it if there is a short to ground problem on the wire. Normally there would be about 12 volts on the lead when it is isolated from the alternator.

The trouble seems to be with the fuel system from what you stated. If you haven't checked the fuel pressure I suggest you do that. There may be an issue with the pressure regulator or the fuel line is clogged.

Glad to hear you found the trouble. You might want to check the carburator also for debris that is causing the bad idle.

Have you checked to see if power is getting to the lights using a test light probe? If not, I suggest you do that. There may be a grounding problem causing the trouble.

Do you get any action when you spray some starter fluid into the intake and try to start the engine?

I think normal compression should be between 160 to 185 pounds. From what you say it seems to me there is a fuel problem. You stated that pouring some gas into the intake made the engine run. Try spraying some starter fluid into the intake and see if the engine runs. If it does then there is a fuel problem.

It is a good idea to place the switch in a clear plastic bag and then work on it. If parts fly at least the bag should contain them.

I suggest you check the compression to see if a belt slipped.

Checking the motor out by tying 12 volts directly to it is a good thing to do. Also make sure power is getting to the motor by checking the voltage on each of the motor leads with reference to ground. If there is 12 volts on both leads it means there is a problem on the ground side of the circuit which ties to the resistor and the speed switch. If there is no voltage getting to the motor then there is a problem with the fuse, blower relay, or the wiring to the motor.

The warning lights are in series with the field windings of the alternator. They turn on when the alternator isn't running for the test mode because the connection of the lamp lead on the back of the alternator is at ground potential at that time. When the current from the warning lights excites the field and the engine is turned over then the magnetic field builds up in the stator and the rotor and the charging action begins. The field windings also charge up and put out a backfeed on the lamp lead which turns off the warning lights unless there is a problem with the alternator.

Shawn, make sure that you are getting 12 volts to those solenoids when they are supposed to be turned on. The trouble my be with the supply to the solinoids rather than the solenoids themselves. As already stated, checking the resistance of the coil will verify if it is ok or not. It should show a fairly low resistance normally.

I assume the E-brake wire was making a ground connection when the battery cable fault happened. The insulation on the wire surely melted and may have caused damage to other wires inside the harness the wire runs in. The harness should be inspected for internal wire damage.

The "feel" of the car is something that I think a lot of folks like. I saw a neat little demonstration model once some time ago at our dealship here. Small models that showed the difference in the front to back balance between a Soob and other 4WD vehicles. It also demostrated the lower center of gravity of the Soob. Enjoy the ride and glad we could help you out.

Along with checking the fuses as MilesFox rightly suggested also check the ignition relay and the fusible links inside the box mounted on the coolant reservoir. Make sure they are making good connection and have voltage passing through them on both sides of the connection. Connection problems have been found on the bottom side of the box also.

Glad to hear things are working ok now on both cars. It sounds like we have another Soob convert here.

Nice to hear it is working again. I think you will be good to go now.

To help clear some confusion up on the way the illumination control works for the dash lights let me say this. Power for the lights passes through a fuse and on to the lights usually on a violet wire. The return side off the lights then ties to a module that is controlled by the dimmer control. The module varies the amount of resistance to ground electronically and so changes the light intensity.

If you think there is a alternator problem make sure the battery warning light works when you turn on the ignition. Power is supplied to the field windings through that lamp. Charging voltage should be between 13.2 and 14.8 volts with a good regulator. Bad output diodes can cause excessive AC ripple voltage. If there is more than .1 volt AC across the battery while the engine is running then there are some bad diodes inside the alternator.

You are correct about the secondary being isolated from ground but as you know in order for the circuit to work it has to make a complete a loop through the secondary windings. Starting at one of the secondary leads it ties to a plug, then passes through the electrodes of the plug which has the threaded end bonded to the engine ground. The path then ties to the other plugs grounded electrode, then through the plug gap, and then back to the other secondary wire for a complete loop. Sparks should fly (not literally) if you do that.

Very good testing Jim. It appears you are well versed in electronic testing and ignitor failures are fairly common. It would seem that grounding the coil should produce a spark. Did you have both plugs connected to the coil and the plug bodies making contact to a good ground when you did the test?

If SBF-1 is the 80 amp main fuse then having a low resistance reading to ground may be normal as all the systems of the car tie to that fuse. It isn't a dead short but it is a low resistance. I assume no fuses are blowing out which would indicate a short problem. You may be wise to have a shop check the current load on the alternator to see if there is an excessive load on it along with checking the alternator full output to make sure it doesn't have an internal problem causing it to heat up too much. Alternators normally run hot.

The drawing that Porcupine73 so nicely provided shows that the ignitor provides the switched ground connection for the coil windings to make spark happen. When the ignitor is turned off the red and blue wires going to the coil should show a voltage near battery voltage like you saw on the Forester. (I assume you made the voltage readings on both vehicles while the ignition was turned on and the engine not running.) If you can find connector F25 in the drawing, disconnect it and then check the voltage on the red and blue wires again. If they are now near battery voltage then the ignitor may be shorted. One thing I don't understand though is how both sides showed a low voltage and yet one side still works. EDIT: I just noticed that pin 8 on F25 ties voltage to the coil. If you disconnect that connector you will need to tie pin 8 together in order to complete the circuit.