Cougar

Some of the lighting is on a different circuit than the dash lights so that is why the ash tray light is working. The radio, hazard switch, and cigarette lighter illumination are on a seperate circuit than the other dash lights. They are tied to fuse 9 so you should have power to those lights when the lights are on. The return side of the lights goes to the illumination control module. It controls how much current gets to ground to control the lights. You should be able to turn on the lights by grounding yellow wire to the lights if power is getting to them. If that works then it looks like the illumination control module is bad or there may be a problem with the dimmer control and the wiring between it and the module.

You state that you have pulses coming from the disty and the coil is good. If that is true then it seems that the trouble would have to be a bad coil wire going to the distributor or something is wrong with the rotor in the disty.

I assume the engine was cranking over ok before you swapped the starter out so that would eliminate the engine as being the trouble. From what you say it makes me think there is a internal short on the switched side of the solenoid contacts. Some folks have had problems with a short when they change out the starter and connect the battery lead to the solenoid stud. They over tighten the stud bolt nut and that causes the stud to turn. The head inside the solenoid touches ground and so when they connect the battery lead to the battery there are big sparks. Simply turning the stud bolt back a little clears the problem. Your problem is on the other side of the solenoid switch contacts, when the solenoid is turned on. The problem may not have shown up when you tested it off of the car because the case of the starter was isolated from ground. If the starter has a warranty it may be easier to just return it and swap it for another one. If they question it then have them check the resistance between the switched solenoid contact and case of the starter. I think they will see a short.

Something went wrong with the timing belts alright.

Hopefully you have a test light probe at least to check the power with. If you don't have one I suggest you purchase one as they are very helpful in checking these kind of troubles. The connection fault is most likely at the splice connection. Using a tester to check the splice connection would confirm that.

I have heard of bad connections on the bottom side of the fusible link box so I suggest you check that out.

The trouble with the starter most likely happened when the battery cable was connected to it and tightened down. The head of the screw stud inside the solenoid most likely got torqued to the side and contacted ground. Moving the stud back a little should clear the trouble. You can verify that by using an ohmmeter and checking the resistance between the stud and ground. It should be infinate resistance normally.

I'm not sure why you say that the switch can't be the trouble because in most cases that it is where the trouble is. So if you haven't verified the that the switch is ok by testing it I suggest you do that.

By grounding the wire going to the light and the thermistor in the tank it should turn the light on. Check to see if voltage is on the lead if the light doesn't work. No voltage on the lead would mean the bulb is burned out (assuming power is getting to the other side of the light).

There isn't an individual relay for the windows. Either the wiring to the motor is broken somewhere, the motor is bad, or it is jammed.

First off, if you don't already have a test light probe to check for power I suggest you purchase one. It will be a big help in checking things to make sure power is getting to where you expect it. The reverse light switch could be where the trouble is. Using the test light will show you if the trouble is with it or somewhere else. The turn signal problem may be due to a problem with the emergency flasher switch. Try cycling it a few times to see if that makes a difference. For the headlight trouble check to see if the relays for the headlights are turning off when you select the highs. If they do then the trouble may be with the switch.

Unless the items mentioned share a common ground point I would guess there is a intermittent connection to a common power source.

Thanks for the heads up about the Loyale model guys. I wasn't thinking about that when I posted earlier. My info for an '88 model shows there is a green wire used for the memory, just like it is shown in the picture. Verify that 12 volts is getting to orange wire side of the connection . If that is good then it appears the memory may be bad inside the radio or a wire connection inside it has broken somewhere.

I think you may have blown the fuse for the memory circuit. If you haven't verified that all the fuses under the hood are ok by using a test light probe then I suggest you do that. As far as control for an external amp or extendable antenna 12 volts is used to do that.

The power windows share a common circuit breaker for protection so that isn't the trouble. I think Rooster2 is correct about the bad switch contacts for the UP position. The contacts can be cleaned but it is a litltle tricky taking the spring loaded switch apart. Do it in a clear plastic bag if you try that so parts don't go flying on you. I don't think you can seperate the driver side switches. You can run power directly from the battery to the motor connections using a jumper cable in order to get the window back up. Reverse the polarity of the connections if the window doesn't move in the right direction.

The fuse for the blower should be with the rest of the fuses in the fuse panel. There is also a relay in the circuit and is a fairly high failure point. I'm not sure how to remove the motor if that is what you are asking. It is mounted under the dash area. If you suspect the blower is bad I suggest you check it out first by applying power directly to it while it is in place.

I assume you have already checked all the fuses for a problem there. You may have a blown fusible link causing this trouble. I suggest you check them if you haven't verified them already. They are inside the small black plastic box mounted on the coolant resevoir. You can also check for power getting to the fuses when the ignition is ON. A fuse can be good but if it isn't getting power what have you got?

My '88 GL-10 did the exact same thing with the temperature gauge as yours is doing. I hope you are cleaning the ground connections you are checking using a small wire brush along with some sort of cleaning solvent and not just looking at them. This would assure a good solid low resistance connection. Adding a #12 gauge wire from the dash to the negative battery terminal may help reduce the remaining voltage drop to ground you are seeing.

Yes, the switch is for the starter solenoid. The switch is near the clutch pedal and you can bypass it with a jumper wire.

You most likely have a problem with the safety switch.

First step is to clean the battery connections. If that doesn't help and the transmission is automatic see if it will start in the neutral position. If that works then the inhibit switch for the starter needs to be checked. You can also try moving the shift lever around in the Park position and see if that helps. If you have a manual tranny then the safety switch on the clutch pedal should be checked.

Make sure the horn works. Fuse 5 provides power to it along with the CAS in the disty. No power there will kill the ignition.

Make sure the battery warning light turns on when you turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON. If the light doesn't work then the alternator will not work either. After reading your descriptions of the troubles it sounds like you may have an alternator or engine grounding issues.

Are you stating that the resistance measurment between B52-pin 3 and the chassis, with both ends of the connection disconnected, showed a resistance of less than 1 Megohm? If so, then the wire is making a path to ground somehow and you need to trace the wire and find the problem. When you took the measurement hopefully you didn't touch the meter probe connection with your fingers. If you did then you will need to remeasure the resistance again without touching the connections. Your skin resistance will interfere with the reading when making a high resistance measurement so you need to be isolated from the connection. As for the resistance of the solenoid (step 3), what was the resistance reading you got and what scale did you use on the meter to make the measurement?

Even though you can hear the relay click the switch contacts can still be bad. Unless you verify that power is getting past the relay contacts you are pretty much wasting your time. You can listen for the sound and feel the vibration on the relay when you turn it on. I think the location of it is above the fuse panel but I'm not real sure.