Cougar

I remember a case someone had some time back and it turned out the plugs for the cam and crank sensors were reversed. I don't remember the symtoms of trouble they had.

The pulses from the crank sprocket still need to be checked out. It just occured to me that there has been no mention of checking the ECU codes so far as I know. Has that been done? If not, it needs to be looked at.

Removing power from it for about 30 minutes will do that. You can also do that by tieing both sets of the test connectors together I believe.

The only thing I am aware you can do to it is reset it.

Here is a link with information on how to find a current drain. http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

You need to get the ECU out of the test mode. I assume you don't have the test plugs tied together under the dash. I suggest you cut one of the wires in question and then see what happens. Then cut the other one and see what happens. You may need to then swap the wires. If you do this I suggest you mark one set at least so you can keep them straight.

The wires you pointed out in slots 2 and 6 of the connector show up as blue/white on my monitor. I'm not sure why there is a mix up about that. It is hard to say what connector ties to. The easiest thing to do may be to cut those wire in question and then see what happens. You don't want to leave the system in the test mode.

Check to see if the meter has a HOLD function. That would freeze the display. Bad meter probe wires would cause that also. Set the meter to read DC voltage and measure a battery to see if that does anything.

Looking at the picture of the connector on its side I only see 1 blk/wht wire, the second pin slot from the top. There are two blu/wht wires in slots 5 and 6. The wire in slot 6 may also have a red strip along with the white. Check the colors carefully using a good light source and maybe a magnifier.

It does sound a little suspicious to have an intermittent problem with the ECU. I would suspect a intermittent relay problem which I believe the ECU controls. Hopefully the shop did their troubleshooting correctly and identified the right area of the trouble. If the trouble really is with the ECU you should be able to get a used one from a salvage yard for a lot less than the price you were quoted from the shop. You can also get a rebuilt one with a warranty for less money. I would make sure the relay isn't causing the trouble before replacing the ECU.

The number 1 displayed on the meter simply means the current resistance reading between the probes is over the scale the meter is currently set to or the resistance may be infinately high and beyond the meters capability to measure it. You will need to change to progressively higher scales in order to find out what is really true. In case you aren't aware of it, whenever you make a resistance measurement there should be no power applied to the circuit and least one leg of the device that is being tested should be isolated from the circuit so a false reading can't happen.

Here is a good drawing showing the CPS sensor, the reluctor ring, and the signal pulses. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5007&d=1183113109 Thanks for the vote of confidence. The 'Cat' can wander off on the wrong trail at times but tries to pin the trouble down ASAP.

I think you mean ferrite core. It's not really a magnet but it does suppress various frequencies, depending upon the mixture of the ferrite material. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=ferrite+core&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7GGLL_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=761843538070174409&sa=X&ei=FNjQTZz2PJK6sQPHttSSDg&ved=0CEIQ8wIwAg&biw=802&bih=542#

You stated the coil and ignitor have been replaced, though they are questionable from what I understand. Broken reluctor tabs still haven't been ruled out as far as I know also. Looking at the crank sensor signal with a scope would show if the two sets of three pulses are getting to the ECU ok.

The alternator has to support the charging for both batteries at the same time. It basically sees just one battery as they are in parallel with each other. Ideally they should be the same. There will be more load on the alternator to support the other battery. You should have a heavy duty alternator to do this. If the one you have working now gives out then you should install a larger capacity alternator.

In the picture you can see the set of three tabs. There are two sets of these tabs.

From what you stated about the symtoms of the trouble I believe you have a headgasket problem. Pressure is causing the coolant to overflow, its overheating and the heater core is being blocked. These are all classic symtoms of a headgasket failure sorry to say. Have a block check done to confirm this.

Check the reluctor tabs on the crank cog wheel and see if some of the tabs have been broken off. They trigger the ignition system. Sometimes they get damaged and break off. It's not a common problem but it does happen. Here is a link to a picture that shows some of the tabs. http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/98%20Legacy%20GT/IMG_3519.jpg

If the plugs are getting spark check the compression.

Thanks Naru. I was thinking EA-82. It looks like the pickup and ignitor are inside the disty in this case. I assume the engine is dying due to lack of spark. I would suspect the device inside the disty is causing the trouble after it warms up. To verify that, place a test light probe tip (clip lead to groound) on the wire between the disty and the coil after the engine dies. That should be the minus side of the coil. Crank the engine and see if you get light pulses on the probe while cranking. If the light is off or just stays lit then the disty is most likely the trouble. If the light is off remove the wires going to the minus side of the coil and verify that power is now getting to the minus side through the coil while the ignition is ON. That will mean the pickup is grounded. If the light still doesn't light up then check the plus side of the coil and make sure power is getting to that side of the coil. Power to that side only would mean the coil has a problem. If you still don't have power to the plus side of the coil then power from the ignition system has a problem.

The crank angle sensor is inside the disty and the ignitor (amp) is located externally of the disty. Both of them need to work in order for the ignition to fire the plugs. If the disty has been modified perhaps there are the old standard points installed in it. The alternator sounds like the brushes may be bad or the connection to them. Just replace it and things should be ok. Make sure the wires on the back side have close to battery voltage on them. If that is good then the alternator is for sure bad.

If you haven't tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake yet I suggest you try that. If that doesn't get it going check the timing belts and the compression. Since the rotor is turning at least you know one of the belts is ok.

The troubles are most likely due to a wiring problem to the EGR solenoid. It is the circuit wiring the ECU monitors. Make sure the connection to the solenoid is ok. If you get 12 volts to that point then check the resistance of the solenoid coil. It may be open.

If the fuel pump still isn't getting power I suggest you check the Ignition Relay and see if there is two sets of contacts inside it, as I mentioned in my last post. If there is a second set of contacts I believe it ties to the fuel pump relay circuit. Tapping on the relay may allow the contacts to work for a bit if that is the trouble.

If you are trying to eliminate the mechanical fan driven by the engine I don't recommend you do that. You will be adding a needless load on the electrical system that has a fairly high current load.