Cougar

That is a resistor. I think it is a 1 watt, 51 ohm, if I remember correctly. The biggest thing about resoldering them is making sure the contacts of the PC board and resistor are clean and using a minimum of heat when resolding it. As far as I know no one has had any further problem with that resistor connection after if was worked on. It sounds like there may be a problem with the keyless entry module since you say the LED is acting a little strange. I suggest you verify it is getting a good connection to power before doing anything else with it. The LED should pulse when the system is in the armed mode.

If I remember correctly some other folks here have had a similar problem due to the MAF sensor being bad and by disconnecting it they were able to start the engine up and keep it going. You might try and see if that works for you also. Another thing you can try and see if this trouble is fuel related is to spray some starter fluid into the intake and see if you can keep the engine running by spraying small shots into the intake after the engine is going. If the engine keeps going you know the trouble is fuel related and not an ignition problem. I assume you are aware that the ECU will shut down the fuel pump if it doesn't see ignition pulses coming from the ignition system. Since you aren't getting any error codes I would have to think that is ok.

A thought just occured to me after reading your post. If I remember correctly the Ignition Relay may have dual contacts. Some I know for sure do anyways. One set of contacts for power to the ECU and the other set for the fuel pump relay circuit. I don't have access to my service data to verify what yours has but if the Ignition Relay has at least 6 wires running to it then it has dual contacts. If this is the case make sure that the second set of contacts are making good connection also when the relay is turned on.

I was hoping that they would be the same for both years but I'm not surprised that they are different. Thanks again for that info Naru. The OP would be wise in investing in a service manual to help with this issue and others that may occur in the future.

Since the fuel pump relay isn't turning on I think you now need to make sure the ignition relay is working ok and the ECU is getting proper power to it for the next step in this process. Here is a link that may help you with the ECU pins that require power. It is for an 87 model but may be the same for yours. One of the posts mentions what pins to check on the ECU for power. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122621 See if there is a wht/red wire on pins 27 and 35 of the ECU connnector. If there is and there is no power on them then the ignition relay needs to be checked.

The gap of .400 would be way over. That's close to half a inch. Between .035 and .040 should be good.

Power does not come from the ECM for the fuel pump. It comes from the the fusible link, through the relay and to the pump. The return side of the pump grounds through the ECU. You need to verify power is getting to the relay.

I have to wonder if the belt is slipping because something is causing the alternator to load down excessively and that is causing the belt to slip. It kind of sounds to me the alternator may need to be replaced.

Good deal. Glad to hear you finally got it running. Defective replacement parts are a bad thing and can cause confusion like this. You kind of end up chasing your tail. You're welcome for the help.

If you have a voltmeter around you can use you should be able to determine if the alternator is ok using it. But if you are sure it is going bad then it should be replaced regardless.

The power to the pump comes from the green fusible link, which passes through the relay on to the pump. If there is power on both sides of the green link then there is a break in the red wire that ties to the relay.

Thanks for the notice on that Naru. I wasn't aware of that. It would be good to verify that voltage is getting to that point in the START position. We can rule out any power issues to the ECU as the source of the trouble then.

Why? Because a weak fuel pump or clogged filter are a pretty common cause of trouble like this, in my opinion at least. You may be correct about the coil being the cause of the trouble but I kind of doubt it. When ignition parts go bad, the trouble they cause doesn't usually go away like the OP stated it did. As far as alternators causing trouble like this, it can happen alright. I think depending on the way it fails will determine what can happen to the engine. When some of the output diodes fail in a shorted condition a lot of AC ripple voltage is generated across the battery. Too much ripple voltage can cause strange issues to happen within the ECU engine control. If the alternator output just fails for some reason, there won't be any high ripple voltage generated and things will run ok on the battery until the charge on it gets to be too low for the electronic systems to run reliably.

You're hot on the trail now. Check the power input to the ignition switch.

Possibly a fuel pump problem or a clogged fuel filter.

Check the fusible links for a loose connection and check the pins on the ECU I stated earlier.

I agree with Naru. This appears to be a power problem of some sort and it shouldn't be to hard to pin down the trouble.

Looking at some info I have it shows that power to the FP relay comes from the green fusible link on a red wire to the relay. Have you checked the connection to power there and made sure that is ok? If that is good then you could try running a hot wire to the blue fuel pump wire or jumper the relay, and run a ground wire to the blk wire on the ECU. My data doesn't show the ECU pin numbers but the blk wire is in between blk/yel and blu/blk wires near the end of the plug. It also ties to pin 9 of the diag connector so it may be more convenient to make the ground there. If the pump works doing that then the pump circuit wiring from the relay to the ECU is ok. The ground through the ECU may be the trouble. If I understand correctly though you aren't getting power from the fusible link.

I finally got my service software to load up. It shows power to the ECU comes from the Ignition Relay on a wht/r wire to pins 27 and 35. Power also supplied from the ignition switch on pin 24. The green fusible link supplies direct power to pin 62 via a red wire. The CAS wires should tie pins 7,8, and 17. The forth blk/r wire should tie to shielded ground. One thing that may make things easy is to just put the ECU into the test mode and see if that works ok. If that checks out then the ECU may be ok though I suppose the ignition section of it still could be at fault.

Ok, well I guess the next step is to verify power is getting to the ECU. I am still trying to get my software running to check it. I think I need to reset my computer.

If there is a blown fuse we will most likely have to track the trouble down. I am try do find some info in my data about the ECU wiring so that can be checked.

That happens when the CAS circuit isn't working. When it is shutdown or grounded it triggers the coil and a spark is made. There may be a fuse problem causing the CAS circuit to fail so we need to check that out.

To check for power set your meter to read DC volts. Then tie the common black probe to a good ground point. Then touch the red probe to each side of the slits on top of the fuses. You should have voltage on each side of the fuse. You will have to turn on the ignition switch for the dash fuses since some are powered after the ignition switch connection.

It would be a good idea to measure the voltage on the fuses to make sure they are getting power. Also make sure the CEL light is working. You may need to check power to the ECU next.

The voltage is a little low, most likely due to a low battery. The voltages readings are what you would expect to see. Have you checked all the fuses and made sure they are ok?