Cougar

In the second picture of the connector the side coming up from the bottom slides out of the top section. There may be a tab on the bottom section you need to press on while pulling down on the lower section.

To see if the valve timing has slipped do a compression test on the cylinders and see how the numbers from the test match up. After going over this again I now think the belts are ok since you say it ran ok the night before this trouble started. Bring a can of starting fluid with you the next time you look into this trouble and see if that will help get the engine running by spraying a small shot into the intake before starting it. I now wonder if there is a problem with the MAF sensor. Try disconnecting it and see if it will start then. I would also check the ECU for any stored codes that may bring a clue to light on this trouble. If you haven't done this already verify all the fuses are ok under the hood and the dash.

Even though the cam for the disty may be working ok the other side may have a broken belt. From the sounds of it, you will most likely find a broken belt is the problem here.

Any tasks to be done from the provided website can be done from the driver seat, not under the dash. Glad to hear your walking ok again.

I suggest you get a can of starter fluid and spray a small amount into the intake to prove this problem isn't due to the injectors not opening. If that doesn't get the engine fired up then you should check for a timing belt problem. Is the rotor inside the disty spinning when you crank the engine? It would also be a good idea to check for any ECU codes by tieing the black ECU connectors together.

Good deal. Thanks for the update.

Depending on what accessories are turned on I would guess the current may be around 30 amps for a maximum level.

I agree, check the fusible links. Make sure the connections to them are clean and making solid connection. It is a pretty common thing to have loose contact connections which cause this kind of trouble.

You need to check for power getting to the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START. If power isn't getting to the small lead then you need to check the inhibit switch. You could try putting the shifter into neutral and see if that helps.

I would try the parts section of this site. I would think someone here should be able to help you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=5&f=12

I think you want to tie the black connectors together, not the green ones in order to get the codes. Here is a link to a site that may help you. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

I think your logic about the misfires causing the O2 sensor code may be backwards. My thinking is if you fix the O2 heater code issue the other troubles may clear up since the ECU uses data from the O2 sensor to determine the fuel mixture. The misfires also shouldn't effect the O2 heater circuit as far as I know. I also think a O2 heater code will go away as soon as the trouble has been fixed.

My experience with a stuck open thermostat was the coolant never made it to full temperature. It stayed around 160 degrees instead of around 185 degrees. The trouble that the OP is having looks like it is due to a plugged core to me. If the trouble was just a stuck thermostat there would be more heat felt I think.

Great news. Thanks for the update.

Try feeling the return side hose of the heater core. If it is a lot cooler to the touch then the core is most likely plugged up.

Yes, the main power panel under the hood has the fuses inside it.

The core is located in the large box mounted on the firewall on the passenger side along with the AC evaporator. A vent door inside is used to switch which side the hot or cold air comes from.

Looking at the picture of the alternator connection there appears to be corrosion on the wires. I suggest you reterminate the main connection and if you have to cut out any corrodid wiring then splice in a good flexible wire to terminate to. I don't see signs of burning in the picture so that is good as it is a definate sign of a bad connection. Bad high current connections cause voltage loss. The trouble you are having could be coming from another area possibly and not from the alternator. If you have fusible links check to make sure the connections to them are clean and making solid connection. Also make sure the wire from the battery to the main power panel under the hood is in good shape. It would also be a good idea to clean the battery to chassis ground connection. Another possible trouble spot is the ignition switch and connections to it.

I was thinking the same thing Naru. There may be a power issue with the injector circuit. It sure sounds like one going from the comments about the engine working for a bit and then cutting out. Checking the fusible link connections may be a good thing to do. It would be interesting to see if spraying some starter fluid into the intake before the engine dies keeps the engine running. This would prove there is a fuel delivery problem.

It is essential that the battery warning light is working in order for the alternator to get power to the exciter inside it. You say it is working so that is good but there may be a short on the lead which will ground out the current to the alternator. To check that out remove the connection on the rear of the alternator and then turn on the ignition switch to the RUN position. If the warning light turns on then there is a short to ground on that lead. If the warning light stays off then that lead should be ok. The next check I suggest you do is check for voltage on the main alternator output lead while the engine is off. You should see battery voltage on that lead. If you don't then check the fusible links under the hood for a bad one.

In case you haven't checked to make sure the ignition system is working yet you need to do that.

I found some factory service information for a 92 Legacy and it shows code 13 is for the cam sensor and code 11 is for the crank sensor so your manual information is correct. Since you replaced the correct sensor and it didn't make any change I think you should definately now check for a broken timing belt. The green plugs are tied together only when a check on the systems needs to be made and is called the Diagnostic Mode. This turns things on an causes the clicking you heard and is normal. Tieing the black connectors together will allow the error codes in memory to be seen. To clear the memory both sets of connectors are tied together and the engine is then started. Clearing the memory will get rid of past codes but if there are active codes they won't go away.

You stated earlier that you have a code 13 error code which means a problem with the crank sensor or the circuit to it, not the cam sensor. If you replaced the cam sensor it was the wrong one. Also in all this effort if you haven't checked for a broken timing belt so far I suggest you do that.

Hopefully the next alternator will fix things up. It would be a good idea to have the battery checked out also to make sure it is in good shape. If it is more than 3 years old I think I would replace it regardless if it was good.

That's very good news Ian. Glad to hear you got it going and thanks for the update.