Cougar

Yes, remove the fuel pump connection, put the relay back in, and then see if a new fuse works ok. Relays don't usually cause a short problem so I doubt it is bad. They generally have bad switch contact issues due to a burning of the contacts over time.

Ok. Thanks for the heads-up on the connection. I was mixed up on a couple of things and see your point now. I think there are two speed sensors used on your car but I'm not positive on that. If there are two then the trouble may be with the one going to the ECU. Again, the wiring to the sensor should be checked first before replacing the sensor. I looked at some data for a 95 model and it shows two speed sensors are used in it. One is for the speedo and the other for the ECU.

To make sure the trouble is with the fuel pump I suggest you disconnect it and then try a new fuse to see if that works ok. It seems strange that the trouble is with the pump but it's possible. It is more plausable to me that the trouble would be at the coil area where you were working. Using the test method I gave you needs to be used on circuits that are normally disconnected from ground. Since the pump motor is grounded on the return side the test light will glow even if nothing is wrong with the pump circuit. The current from the test light will find ground through the motor wingings of the pump motor.

In your case make sure the flasher is getting full voltage to it. If that is ok then try replacing the flasher to see if that helps.

What makes you think the ECU is bad? It is telling you there is a problem with that sensor or wiring to it. Your Scangauge is telling you the same story. When the signal gets bad enough the ECU shuts down the engine. Hopefully the Scangauge connection to the sensor isn't causing this trouble. You may want to isolate that connection to see what happens.

You don't state what year and model car you have. I assume you are talking about a EA82 engine of some sort. Data for the wiring shows that fuse 11 ties to the fuel pump and coil areas as you said and you are correct about having a short on the line. Since the trouble seemed to happen while you were working on the engine I would look for a pinched blk/wht wire going the coil. To isolate things remove the fuel pump relay and the blk/wht wire going to coil. Hopefully you have a test light probe to work with. Connect the clip lead to a power source and then place the probe tip on the protected side of the fuse connection. If the short is still there the light will turn on. When the short is removed from the circuit the light will go out and you can replace the fuse back in the slot.

I agree with Legacy 777. The code states there is a problem with the sensor. It could be just a wire connection problem, as he also said, so that should be checked first before replacing the sensor. Going from what you said about the other symptom you had I think it kind of points to just a connection problem to the sensor.

Since the rotor was broken it kind of sounds like the wrong part was used or it wasn't screwed down in place correctly. There were 2 different sizes used I believe. You also have the classic signs of bad bushings since you stated the tach is jumping. Did you check the disty cap for any damage to it inside it? A replacement disty should get you running smooth down the road again.

I would be suspicious of replacing the ECU also. They can have problems but it isn't very often. I would first make sure the power to the ECU is ok before saying it is bad. Make sure that there isn't any AC voltage coming from the alternator. The AC voltage should be no more than .1 volt with the engine running around 2000 RPM. If you do need a ECU you can get rebuilt ones for about half the cost of a new one. One from a salvage yard may run you about 50 dollars.

I think Turbone is on track. You may want to replace the disty and see if that helps. It sounds like the vacuum advance diaphram has a problem and the bushings inside it may be bad also and that is causing the missing. There may be some salvage yards down near the Kent area to get a replacement but I'm not sure. Here is a link to a yard in Auburn. http://branris.com/

Since the headlight indicator light isn't working along with the dash lighting I would say the trouble may be with the light switch. If the trouble was just with the dash lighting I would say the trouble would point towards the illumination control module.

You guys are correct about the code clearing. The ECU will turn off the CEL light for a bad knock sensor or circuit as soon as it detects a good signal from it. There are some things that will require several trips to reset the error code once a problem occurs but the knock sensor isn't one of them.

I would guess water is getting to the circuit somehow. Possibly a leaky windshield seal.

What would cause the P1101 code? The answer is refered to in post 3. For the P0400 code the EGR valve may be leaking, not plugged. Try cleaning the valve to see if that helps.

I suggest you invest in a code reader or a scanner so you can check things yourself. The ECU doesn't really need to be reset when the knock sensor is working ok. It will turn off the CEL light itself when things are ok. I think the investment in a reader is well worth the cost of having a good one on hand. I have a couple made by Equus and really like them. If you purchase one you need to make sure it will handle the ISO 9141 protocol.

The P1101 code refers to the inhibit switch for the transmission. Cleaning the contacts of the switch may clear the trouble. The code for the O2 heater may be due to a bad connection to the heater circuit or the heater itself is bad. Ohming the heater leads will tell the story about that. The code refers to the sensor after the CAT.

Just a note about the picture of the meter shown above. The meter is set to read temperature, not voltage. If you are trying to measure a low resistance then the dial should be set to the 200 position in the Ohms section. This would put the dial indicator in the 6 o'clock position if it were an hour hand. Whenever you measure resistance there should be no power to the device under test and have at least one lead isolated from the circuit to prevent a alternate path that could cause a wrong reading from the meter.

The trouble you are having appears to be due to a bad connection in the main power bus. I would first make sure the fusible links are ok if you have them. If they are ok then you need to check the power getting to and past the ignition switch. You should use a voltmeter to check with but a test light should work also. Along with the power bus leads also check the grounding to the chassis. When the ignition switch is in the START mode some things are normally disconnected from power. So some of the things you mentioned turn off anyways.

Like others have stated already changing out the CTS sensor may fix the trouble causing the P0115 code but then again it may not. The code states it is a circuit problem so the wiring to the sensor needs to be checked for a problem. There may be a bad connection on the contacts for the sensor itself. That is the first place to start the check. Just cleaning the connections may clear the code. Hopefully when the the CTS sensor code is cleared the other codes will clear also but that remains to be seen. The starting issue you are having trouble with has nothing to do with the ignition system. You stated that the starter isn't working at all when this trouble happens so my first suggestion to you for that issue is to remove the battery connections and clean them up using a battery post cleaning brush. So many people overlook this simple area to keep clean and it causes so many problems when neglected. If you still have problems after doing that then the solenoid contacts in the starter may need to be replaced or just get a rebuilt starter since it is getting fairly old now. There is another area that can cause trouble which is the inhibit switch. It is a safety switch for the automatic transmission when starting the engine. The ignition switch provides power to the starter solenoid through the inhibit switch in the START mode. Sometimes the inhibit switch contacts get dirty and cause the kind of trouble you are having at times. Try starting the car in neutral to see if that changes things. Before you do anything with the starter you need to make sure the ignition power is getting to it in the START mode.

Glad you solved the problem.

They are basically simple solenoids that open or close to control the vacuum lines. You don't want to know the price of new ones. I think Honda and some other brands use similair ones you may be able to find at a salvage yard for a lot less cost. You can use the connectors from the old ones if you do that. These units control air for the emissions system.

Before you install another sensor I suggest you check the voltage on the sensor and the heater leads that tie to the sensor. Just to make sure that the sensor isn't being damaged by something wrong with the circuit to it. The heater leads should have 12 volts going to them. As for the sensor leads I am not sure what you will see with an open circuit. I don't think you should have 12 volts on them though. The sensor is supposed to generate its own voltage which the ECU monitors and should be between +1 and 0 volts when things are tied together and running normal. Here is a link for your reference that may help you out with this issue. http://mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html

Then check to see if power is getting to and past the ignition switch. Hopefully you are using a test light probe to verify where power is getting to. You can't just assume power is getting to the fuses and other areas.

There should be some fusible links somewhere and they should be checked out. Make sure they are good and making good connection. Use a test light probe to check for power and where it is getting to. There could be a problem with the ignition relay so check that also. The ignition switch is another possible trouble spot.

If you did get 2 bad ones you better find a different parts supplier.