Cougar

Good job on the repair of this issue and thanks for the update.

With the engine running check the voltage getting to the field on the back side of the alternator. I think it is the white/red wire. You should see close to the battery voltage on that pin if the wiring is ok to that point. If the voltage is low and the warning lamp is on check to see that the light goes off if you disconnect the rear connector to the alternator. If the light stays on then there is a path to ground on that wire that shouldn't be there. If that wire is ok then check the voltage between the alternator output lead and the positive battery post with the engine running and a fair load on the electrical system. There should be very little voltage across that connection if that connection is ok. At idle voltage should be around 12.8 volts with reference to ground if the alternator is good.

The "valve open" signal going to the injectors is really just a connection to ground through the ECU. This happens very fast of course and is a short duration. You would really need a scope to test it. My main concern was that you verify have around 11 volts getting to the ECU pins coming from the injectors if power is getting where it should be when the ignition is ON. You can use a noid light as was suggested to see if the injectors are working but from what you have stated so far it looks like they are not opening. Along with verifing that all pins that supply power to the ECU are getting power also make sure that all the pins that are supposed to tie to ground are making good connection using your meter. A good ground connection point will have no voltage across it when compared to a good ground reference point.

I have been looking over the posts on this thread and it sounds to me that the injectors aren't turning on for some reason. The ECU controls the ground side of the injectors and makes a connection to ground when they are supposed to be open and inject fuel to the cylinder. Have you checked the voltages at the connections to the ECU for the injectors to see if you have power getting to those points? If so and you have around 11 volts at each connection then we need to see why the ECU isn't closing the connections to ground when they need to be.

Since the car was running when the trouble happened you should check for a broken timing belt first. As for the electrical issues, part of the trouble may be with the iginition switch. The fuel pump and temperature gauge should turn off with the ignition switch. The fans may be a different problem. Possibly a shorted sensor switch.

Make sure the fusible links have a good snug connection and aren't loose.

Hopefully the trouble is just due to an air pocket and not the headgaskets. You might try burping the coolant system and also do a block check to check for exhaust gases in the coolant.

I think it would be wise to purchase a code reader so you can check out problems like this. If you get one be sure to get one that will handle the protocol that Subaru uses. You can also go to Autozone and have the codes read for free. Let us know what the codes are when you get them read and we can help you futher.

Good deal. Thanks for the feedback.

The codes look to be correct. The air flow and water temp codes show circuit problems so check the power to them and grounds.

Thanks for the clarification about the fans GD. It seems like it would be the other way around to me but maybe that is a more efficent way of doing it.

Try spraying the ignition wires with some water in a spray bottle while the engine is running at night. Check for any arcing from the wires to ground.

I doubt you will see anything wrong if you do that. You might try disconnecting the connector to the disty and reconnect it in case there is a bad connection there.

The alternator belt should be good and snug but not over tight. You may be seeing the flicker because there some bad diodes in the alternator. Some flicker is normal at low idle. Have a load test done on the charging system and it will show you what the condition of the alternator and battery are and then you will know for sure what to do. Going by the mileage, you may find that the idler pulling bearing may need to be changed out sometime in the near future.

I believe the electric fan is needed only if you have AC.

Those codes refer to a possible circuit problem with the CAS sensor inside the disty.

Picture 2 shows the green diagnostic connectors. Only tie them together when trouble shooting or testing. Picture 3 may be connectors for the cruise control.

A mistake on my part. I was thinking we were talking about a Loyale model and now I see it is a Legacy. Sorry about that. The blower relay might be above the fuse panel but I'm not sure about that.

The trouble may be with the ignitor.

I think it will work ok by doing that. I also think you could add a resistor to the exsisting ECU circuit and fool the ECU into thinking that the circuit is ok.

I suggest you get a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. If that checks out ok then I would suspect the radiator is clogged and a replacement is needed.

Welcome to the forum. The blower relay should be close to what your info stated. There is a set of four relays in a row and I believe the blower relay is on the left side of the row. The other relays are for the head lights and rear defroster. The turn signal flasher is also near the relays so turning on the flashers may help you locate the relays. Power to the motor is supplied to through the relay and then to the motor. The return side of the circuit goes through the switch, speed resistors and then to ground. Since you saw no power at the motor and the fuses were good (and have power getting to them) then the relay is the best next check, like you are thinking.

Check to see if power is getting to the bulb. I think the ECU makes a ground connection to turn the light on. If there is power at the bulb and you can trace it down to the ECU connection then the ECU circuit is bad.

Check the intake manifold gaskets for an air leak by spraying some WD-40 around the seals while the engine is running and see if the engine speed changes.

I think it would be a good idea to first clean the battery connections with a battery post cleaning brush to make sure there is no problem there. Also check the fusible link connections in the plastic bow mounted on the coolant reservoir. Make sure they are clean and making a good snug connection. Another possible trouble area is the starter solenoid contacts could be bad. If you hear a fairly loud click when the trouble happens then that is most likely the trouble. You can replace the contacts or get a rebuilt starter.