Cougar

This isn't necessarily true in all cases. It happened to me one day while driving 50 MPH. The car just died off while driving on the road. The fuel pump just went out on it. This happened to my '88 GL-10 MPFI turbo wagon. Mileage on the car was about 88k miles at the time. I will say though that having something happen to the engine has a better chance of occuring than the fuel pump going out in most cases.

I disagree with the advice you recieved about not draining the old fluid. If the current fluid is old it should be replaced. You also might try a product called Trans-X and add it to the transmission fluid. Folks here have had good results freeing up sticking valves and other transmission woes.

The trouble may be due to a bad blower relay (the click you hear). Though the relay seems to work, the contacts that supply power to the motor may be bad. Another possibility is the motor may have some bad brushes internally. By connecting power directly to the motor you will be able to see if the motor is the trouble or not. Tapping the relay can sometimes show up the bad contacts inside it.

Thanks for the feedback on this.

One thing that makes me think the trouble isn't due to a slipped timing belt is the compression should be low on both of the effected cylinders, not just one.

The six ECU flashes are normal. I think it states what model of transmission you have. Since the CEL light doesn't work you are going to have to check the wiring to the bulb.

I suggest you get some starting fluid, spray some into the intake and see if the engine will fire up then. If that doesn't work then you may want to check the compression to see how that is.

I think Bulwnkls idea of getting something from Auto-RX is a great idea. Their products are excellent in my opinion.

The links are in a plastic case. It may be mounted on the coolant reservoir.

Do you have MPFI or SPFI?

I wasn't aware of the disty shafts difference so thanks GD. Have you tried replacing the ignitor module already? If not I would try that next.

Checking the compression of the bad cylinder and comparing it to the rest of the good ones will tell you a lot real quick on what needs to be done.

Ok. Another possible trouble area is bad bearings in the distributor for the shaft.

You can replace the bearing and I have done that myself. I would think a capacitor simlair that would be used for a set of ignition points would work fine. Something like a .1 microfarad@ 200volts should do the job also.

The voltage regulator is built into the alternator and the "filter" is a capacitor. It bypasses unwanted high frequencies coming from the alternator into the power lead to ground. The squeal is most likely due to a bad bearing in the idler-tension pulley.

The problem may be with the alternator due to excessive electrical noise and disabling like GD suggested is a good idea. Just remove the rear connector to the alternator while the engine is off and then start it up to see if the trouble clears.

The fact that the clock doesn't retain the memory could very well mean that the continuous power to the clock is missing and I think Pksjeep is correct about the green wire color for the memory lead. The horn issue needs to checked out by running a power jumper directly to the horns. They may be bad. If they work then you need to check the connection to the horns and the horn switch. For the hazzard lights you need to make sure power is getting to the module for the hazzrds. If that is ok and the switch is making proper connection to the module in order to activate them then the module is most likely bad.

To see if there is a power problem to the sensors you need to use a voltmeter and check the power lead going to them. To see if there is a ground problem measure the voltage on the ground connection of the sensor and the negative battery post. A good ground connection should show no voltage drop while the sensor is on so no voltage should be seen.

With all the error codes you had I would suspect a problem with the power to them. They may have a common power source.

You can make your own links if you have the proper wire to do it with. The black link is 1.25 like you stated. The red link is .85mm and the green is .5mm. Once you get the power back to normal then check things out. Hopefully you didn't damage the ECU. Things like motors, relays, switches, and lights won't be a problem with reverse polarity because it doesn't matter which way current flows in them. It is electronic items, like the ECU, that can be damaged. I think the ECU has a reverse polarity protection diode in it on the power lead but sometimes even that doesn't help for this kind of error.

Glad to hear you got it working though I have to wonder about the cure. A shorted battery would mean there would be no voltage available to turn on any light much less crank the engine or read any voltage as you stated you did check. You may find that the trouble comes back later on.

It looks like the info I gave you that came from a '95 manual isn't correct for a '94 model. After looking at one for a '94 it shows that the pin to the CEL light is A16. The pin is just left of the center key for the plug. The power to the light also ties to other warning lights so if they aren't working also then the power from the ignition switch should be looked at. Power to the ECU comes from the Main Relay and ties to pins C3 and C4 of the ECU. Be sure you have power there. If you don't, check SBF-8 and the Main Relay for a problem. Since you aren't getting spark or fuel also I suspect that there is a power connection problem to the ECU causing the trouble.

I think Legacy777 may be correct about the bad grounding issue for the CEL light problem but it could be a power lead issue. There may be a bad ground to the dash area and the ECU that is causing the trouble. By turning on the window it may be allowing a lower resistance to ground. To prove it you could make a long ground lead and tie one end to the negative battery post and then touch the other end of the wire to places you suspect may have a bad ground, like the dash area or ECU chassis. If that makes the CEL light turn ON while the ignition is ON then you need to check the grounding in that area. It would be a good thing to clean the main grounds at the battery and chassis also. The return side of the light ties to pin 31 of the dark gray connector going to the ECU. Pin 31 is in the second row of wires on one side of the middle of the connector. The wire color is red/green. When the light is supposed to be ON there should be very little voltage on the pin. Hopefully you have something to check for voltage. If you don't have something you need to get at least a test light probe. If the ground isn't the trouble then you need to check fuse 15. It supplies power to the CEL light, along with other things. The power wire to the light in the cluster is red/black and goes to pin c11. Make sure voltage is ok there.

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the feedback.

Your model does have both items like we have stated. The ignitor may be mounted on the disty shaft or very near it. It is really a transistor mounted on a bracket.