Cougar

Well if the fans are rated for the amount of power you stated then the fan with the high resistance must be bad. There is no way it could work like it should. If the middle wire on the working fan is the power wire for the other speed then you need to check the voltage on the switched contact of the relay that controls that speed when the fan is supposed to be ON. If the voltage is good at that point then there is an bad connection between there and the connection to the fan. Good to hear you have a factory manual to refer to. You should be able to find the information on the fans in the AC and engine sections of the manual.

The fan with the low resistance readings may have some shorted windings which would cause high current to flow. That may explain the need for the larger fuse. You may need to replace the fan. If you don't have a factory service manual for the wiring I suggest you get one. Ebay is a good place to get one. It will make things a lot easier to work on.

I doubt the switch itself is shorted but the window mechanism may be jamming up in the UP direction which would cause high current to flow in the motor. Never keep pushing the power switch if the window isn't moving in case there is a jam in the mechanism. Hopefully the circuit breaker for the circuit will trip before real damage is done to the wiring or motor.

Well before you check other things like the relay verify that all the fuses in the panels under the hood and in the dash are good and getting power to them. You will need to turn on the ignition to check the dash fuses for power. If you don't have at least a test light to check power with you need to get one. On the smaller fuses you can use the slits on top of each side of the fuse to probe for power. If all the fuses are good then you need to check the fuel pump relay operation as the next step. Since it appears that the ignition also isn't working I suspect you are going to find a bad fuse that relates to both areas.

I think power to the fuel pump comes from fuse SBF-5 in the panel under the hood. You should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on briefly when you turn the ignition ON. The fact that the starter fluid trick didn't work means you have more than a fuel delivery issue even if that is so. Make sure all the fuses are good by checking the power on each side of them. Since you replaced the pump and if there is a power problem to the pump then the fuel pump relay should be checked.

The trouble is most likely with the UP position switch contacts but it could also be a bad window regulator mechanism. The hard load is with the up position and where they usually start having problems.

Well if the starter fluid didn't make the engine react your problem isn't with the fuel supply, so don't waste your time looking at that area for trouble. You most likely have an ignition problem. Did you check for spark getting to the plugs? You could also have a timing belt problem causing the trouble. What made you replace the fuel pump?

The power to fuel pump is only applied for a couple of seconds when you turn on the ignition. The power stays on while cranking and the engine is running. It is a safety design. If you think there is a fuel issue causing the engine not to start then try spraying a small amount of starter fluid into the intake and see if that changes things. If the engine responds then you have to check the fuel system. If you still have trouble then look into the ignition system for a problem. There is both a fuse and relay used for the fuel pump power. The fuse supplies power to other things also.

I assume the lights that are turning on when you release the brake pedal are really the running lights and not the brake lights. Since the middle brake lights seem to be working okay we will assume the power to the lights is good. The problem is with the ground for the lights. To see if that is correct tie a jumper wire between a known good ground point like the negative battery post and connect the other end to the ground side of the brake light connector. If the lights now work you have proved the ground return for the lights has a bad connection to ground.

As others are trying to tell you, the trouble is most likely with the starter solenoid contacts. The age of the car is such that this type of problem commonly happens. The contacts ware out and can't pass the high current needed by the starter motor. You can replace the contacts if you don't want to replace the whole starter.

Verify that voltage is getting to the highs when the switch position is selected. If you don't have power getting to them in that position then the light switch needs to be checked out along with the wiring to it. If you do have voltage there then the switched ground for the lights needs to be checked out. The ground for the lights is supplied through the switch. No need to check the relays as they are common to both lights.

Dirty or bad switch contacts on the LOCK side or possibly a broken wire in the door jam.

To check the wiring and the speaker set the meter to read Resistance ®. Set the scale to a low number like 200 ohms since the speaker will only have around 4 to 10 ohms of resistance. Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and place the meter probe leads across the speaker leads. If you have near zero ohms of resistance then there is a short across the wire. If the resistance shows real high or 'OL' then the there is a break in the wiring or the speaker coil is open.

The wiring prints take a little getting used to but once you figure things out you will see how fairly simple most circuits are designed. You won't want to work without the drawings as they save you so much time. Having the drawings and knowing how to work with a meter will pin down problems in short order. Good job.

The power to the pump needs to be checked out. It is most likely low due to a bad connection or faulty fuel pump relay.

Glad to hear you got it working. The ECU does control the fan operation by grounding that pin you tested and the temperature sensor used to monitor the coolant is the one used by the ECU, not the dash gauge. By manually grounding the pin you proved that the fan operation was good to that point of the circuit but the ECU wasn't doing its' job. The switch driver inside the ECU had most likely failed and caused the issue. You got a good price on the replacement ECU.

Glad to help. For some reason the jpg images are not working. The relays you showed are the ones I am referring to and one of them is for the Main Fan. We are working with the coil lead of that relay that ties to the ECU and not the relay switch contacts. The coil lead of that relay going back to the ECU is what you need to tie to ground. The other side of the relay coil wire will tie to power somewhere, perhaps to fuse FB-14 also.

Sure, I'll explain it and it is very simple to do once you know which wire ties to the relay coil. Hopefully you have a wiring diagram to refer to that will show you which pin on the ECU the wire ties to. Once you have it you just take a jumper wire that is connected to a good ground point and connect the other end of the jumper to the pin going to the relay coil. You can leave the connector to ECU in place while you do that. It may help to use something like a pin to stick into the backside of the connector to make contact to the jumper wire and the connector pin. You could also stick the pin through the wire insulation and make connection to the wire that way but that leaves a hole in the insulation. Dabbing some silicon glue over the hole would seal it up. If everything with the Main Fan circuit is okay, and you seem to have proved that already, the fan should turn on when you ground the pin. Other things you have done seem to indicate there is something going on within the ECU or the power to it.

Okay, I see what you mean now. Since the test plugs didn't work this may be a clue to the real issue. I suggest you ground the wire going to the ECU that controls the Main Fan to see if that works. If it does then you should find out why the ECU isn't working correctly. I assume you have first already checked that all the fuses in both panels are passing power through them using a test light or meter.

It is strange that nothing happened when you connected both sets of connectors. I would check for a power problem going to the ECU to make sure that is okay and if that was good I would have to suspect the ECU has a problem. To test the Main Fan operation you could try grounding the lead going to the ECU that controls the Main Fan operation. The fan should turn on if everything else with the circuit is okay. From what you say about the low pressure side of the AC system it seems that the system may be over charged. I would have a AC shop take a look at things. I don't recommend bypassing the pressure switch. I am a bit confused with a statement you made in post 4. You seem to indicate that the Main Fan turns on when the engine gets to hot but then other statements seem to indicate neither fan works. Can you clarify that for me?

Good to hear you got it fixed. Even though the fuses are labeled for some functions they also power numerous other things not identified on the label. It would take up too much space. The Power Supply section of the factory manual covers all the circuits that the fuses are tied to and is the best reference source for information. Thanks for the update and you're welcome for the help. Drive on.

Perhaps the throttle position sensor is faulty or has dirty contacts.

I suggest you see if the fans will turn on by using the TEST connectors, which are under the dash I believe. By plugging them together it will start the TEST mode. If the fan doesn't turn on that way then I suspect the trouble is with the ECU control for the fan. The ECU makes a ground connection to activate the fan relay coil which ties power to the fan motor. Another way to prove it is to manually ground the relay coil lead going to the ECU. Some folks have had this same issue. The lead ties to a driver IC inside the ECU which can be replaced if you are into that kind of repair.

Well, whatever was causing the issue seems to have gone away for a while at least. Since the trouble would at least go away for a little bit when you changed out pumps it is very logical to think the trouble would be close that area. A connection problem at the connector to the pump itself makes the most sense. The voltages you read on the wiring this last time are real good numbers. I am assuming that the quick drop in voltage you saw on the pump power lead was due to the safety shut down circuit for the pump. This happens when the engine isn't running and the ignition is ON, the ECU will shut down the pump. Now when the engine is running you should have at least 12 volts on that lead to power the pump.

I had a Loyale model that acted up and had intermittent hesitation while climbing a particular hill. One day the car just quit while on the road. The shop replaced the fuel pump and the hill problem was gone after that. You may have a different issue though.