Cougar

The info I have shows that the tweeter for the front speakers is tied in parallel with the front main speakers for either the premium or standard systems. It doesn't seem possible that the main front and rear speakers would all go out at once. I can only think that the original system has been modified and a seperate amp has been installed that seperates the mains and tweeters.

I also agree. The trouble is either with a fusible link, the connection to it, or the ignition switch circuit.

Some things still are connected in the START mode but like you stated, there are a number of accessories that are cut off.

My only thought would be the fuel injector for that cylinder was causing a lean fuel condition.

It is most likely under the dash on the passenger side. If you work on this yourself I suggest you purchase at least a CD service manual for the car. You can get them on Ebay for a reasonable price.

From what info I have seen so far it seems to indicate that there may be a problem with the air blend door for that side and it is controlled by vacuum air. Make sure the air line is working to it. If that is good then the door may be stuck.

The light is tied in series to a thermistor that is mounted to the fuel sender unit. When the fuel level goes below the body of the thermistor it heats up a little from the current flowing through it and that causes the thermistor resistance to go lower. The lower resistance allows more current to flow in the circuit and that turns on the light in the dash.

The voltage is higher after being on the highway for a while because the battery has a better charge on it and it is helping to support the load. I would'nt be surprised if you found a connection problem between the alternator and the battery and assuming the fan belt tension is ok.

The trouble could very well be due to a problem in the alternator. There is a fusible link that ties it to the battery and not a normal fuse. Here is a link to a site that should help you understand how to hook up your meter and measure current. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_2/4.html

I doubt the fans are the trouble. The charging voltage is low from what you stated and you should be seeing up to 14.8 volts while the engine is reved to around 2,000 RPM. There may be a connection problem between the output lead (the large wire) of the alternator and the positive battery post. These points are basically tied together through a fuse and the wires. You could check the voltage across those points while the engine is running and there is a good load on the electrical system. If the wiring is ok there should be very little voltage drop across the wiring. Less than .1 volt. Also make sure the main output lead of the alternator is making good connection and isn't burned.

You're welcome for the help.

In regards to the head lamp circuit I forgot that the plug was removed to the head light when the voltage measurement was taken so the voltage that was seen on the white wire while the high beams were off was coming from another area. Possibly the high beam indicator light in the dash. The same results takes place. You just need to know how things are wired together in order to understand what is happening when you make a voltage measurement. You can be misled if you aren't careful. As far as the relay coil and the head lamp being tied to the white wire go, it is not a problem having the two paralleled together. The small extra current needed to run the relay coil will just add to the current needed to run the head light, insignificant compared to the light current needed. So no prob-lemo.

Sorry for the confusion Brightlights, I will try to be more specific. You stated that the green wire has power running to it when either the low or high beams are selected. This is the wire that should tie to the high side of the relay coil connection and the other end of the coil ties directly to ground through the added switch. Now if you want the new lights to be able to be turned on only when the bright lights are on, and not the low beams, we need to make the ground connection a different way. You will need to tie the high (power) side of the coil to the green power lead but then tie the low (ground side) to the white wire of the high beam light. The ground for that light will only be connected to ground when the highs are turned on. You are just adding a parallel circuit for the relay coil across the high beam light. EDIT: I see what was confusing you about the white wire having voltage on it when the low beams are ON. The voltage you saw on the wire was there because that wire was not tied to ground when the low beams are on. That wire was floating, not tied to anything (except the open switch connection) on that end. When that happens the voltage going the light passes through the filament and to the end of the wire. There is voltage there but the current has to pass through the load in order to get to the end of the floating wire connection. If you touched that lead to ground it would turn on the light and the voltage would drop to zero since the wire is tied to ground. This is what happens to all circuits when current isn't flowing and the circuit is open. When the circuit is completed and current flows then you won't have to be concerned about floating voltages.

I edited my previous post. In response to your last one, try this. Tie pin 86 to the power side of the high beam light, Then tie pin 85, along with the added switch in series to ground.

Tie relay pin 86 to the middle power lead going to the head lights. Tie pin 85 along with your added switch in series to the switched ground side of the high beams.

Try swapping the known good coil with the other one and see if that helps. I know you changed out the coil already but I assume it wasn't proven to be ok before you put it in. If that doesn't help I suggest you check the crank sensor signal with a scope and verify it is ok.

Another possibility is a bad fuel pump.

I haven't done the job before so I would say going by what the manual says is what you should do. Some guys can get the job done their own way at times though.

Considering the price you paid for the car you could afford to skip the extra insurance. The average shop repair bill is more than you paid for the car.

I have to commend you on your efforts 1-3-2-4. If that same thing happened to my car I would be looking for a new one.

Have you tried using the shaft of a screwdriver to help align the holes? Getting a couple of longer screws may help also get the holes aligned.

Another thing to check is the cog of the reluctor for the crankshaft sensor. Sometimes they get broken off and cause that kind of problem.

I like your thought about the key OB99W. There may be RFI coming from the starter motor and the lead is causing the noise to get to places it shouldn't and is causing trouble.

BrightLights, before you go trying other ideas would you just check to see if wraping the wire for the relay around the main starter cable clears the trouble. I suspect it will. If it doesn't then hopefully the other suggestions of moving it will work. I am just curious to see if this will work or not and it is a very quick and easy thing to do.

After looking at the picture of the ECU I can't believe it is working like it should. Something can't be fuctioning correctly with the damage shown in the picture. Does the CEL light turn on when you turn the key to ON?