Cougar

The first link you provided shows that VSS 2 provides the signal to the speedometer. The last sentence states that. So it would seem that is the one you need to change unless something else is causing the trouble.

You should have power on the blk/wht wire, if not check your fuses. This comes from the ignition switch and ties to the plus side of the coil. The yellow wire goes to the angle sensor and ties to the minus side of the coil.

The disty may have excessive slop in the shaft and could cause trouble. You can also replace the CAS sensor inside it. I'm not real convinced that is the trouble area but it could be. The injector may be bad also. The MAF sensor is another possibility.

I suggest you replace the plugwires with OEM ones even though it may not solve the trouble you are having. They are due to be replaced and can add to performance. You should check the compression as you said to see if something is wrong there. If the compression is ok you may need to replace one of the engine sensors. Checking the signals from the sensors with a scope may show up something wrong.

The term Bank 1 is just refering to the side of the engine that has cylinder #1. I'm not sure if the engine refered to here has a bank 2 side and O2 sensors for it also. There may be just the one side. If the engine has multipoint injection it is possible that one of the injectors is leaking.

If a local install shop can't help you then you might try contacting Crutchfield and see what they can do for you.

Here is what the codes mean. Code P0172 indicates that the fuel mixture is too rich in bank 1 (cylinder 1) side. Code P0483 indicates the fan performance is not correct. There may be a problem with the MAF causing the rich fuel mixture. The fuel pressure regulator may be causing the trouble also. Cleaning the MAF sensor may help solve the trouble. The fan performance may be due to a bad power connection to fan from the relay. The fan operation needs to be checked at least.

Having any bad connection to the alternator can cause a problem with the charging system.

Like Naru stated, you are well within the limits of normal draw. I think most cars today draw around 25 to 35 milliamps of current to keep things running. I suggest you purchase a battery post cleaning brush from a auto store and clean your battery connections. Instead of having a excessive current draw you may not be getting a full charge to the battery. Check the voltage getting to the battery while the engine is running around 2,000 RPM. You should have between 13.5 and 14.8 DC volts there. The problem may be futher down the line also. There is a main power panel under the hood so inspect that also.

Check the minus side of the coil with a test light probe while cranking the engine. You should see pulses of light there. If the light is just on and not flashing then you need to check the sensor in the disty and the ignitor for a problem. If you have no light there then see if there is power on the plus side of the coil. If you have light there then the coil is open.

If the fault code you are getting is due to a lean fuel mixture check the intake manifold gaskets for a possible leak. As was stated earlier, error codes can indicate a problem with the sensor involved or the circuit to it but they also can be triggered by other problems, like a air leak in the intake or exhaust manifolds. There are no codes for those things specifically. Problems like these need to be diagnosed properly before work is done so extra repair time and needless parts replacement dosen't happen. Good techs are still needed and also why they deserve a good salary to earn a decent living.

How about running some Seafoam through the engine to see if that helps with this. If that doesn't do the trick I would suggest the shop look at the firing pattern with a scope and see what that looks like on the screen.

You may be able to fix the board by just replacing the output transistor though other things could be bad also. The cross reference for that part is a NTE 55. Here is a link for you to see. http://www.nteinc.com/specs/10to99/pdf/nte54.pdf

You do have the symptom of a weak pump though it could be due to other things.

The pump shouldn't be cycling like that. It should only do it once. It sounds like the test plugs are connected together under the dash. They should only be connected when doing some troubleshooting. See if the car will start using some starter fluid. If that doesn't help check the ignition syystem out and make sure you have spark to the plugs.

I don't think having a vacuum in the tank is normal but I am not positive on that. What I think should happen is the tank gets vented to the air through the charcoal filter at certain points and pressure adjusts inside the tank then. This is controlled through the purge valve I believe. There may be a problem with it opening. The circuit may be good to it and if so you would not see a code until it did have a problem electrically. You wouldn't know about a mechanical problem except for signs like you are having. To see if this idea is correct you could try opening the gas cap after the fuel level drops to a level before you start having the misfire problems. If the misfiring goes away then I would say you should have the vent system checked for some sort of a blockage. It may be the valve itself has a mechanical problem and air to the tank isn't venting like it should be.

I am a little skepticle about that idea unless there is a high vacuum in the tank when the level drops. Do you hear a relief of vacuum when you open the gas cap when the fuel level has dropped to about half way in the tank? If so, then the venting/purge control for the fuel system may be faulty and relieving the vacuum by opening the cap should clear the trouble for the rest of the tank of gas.

A bad connection will cause the connection to heat up and make the black mark as you saw. This is because of the voltage drop across the resistance in the connection that shouldn't be there. Try cleaning the contacts and measure the voltage across the connection while the pump is on. You should see very little voltage across the connection if things are ok. No more the .1 volt.

If you know for sure the black wire is the return wire going to the pump then it would appear that the pump circuit is open. But if you don't know for sure then that should be checked by doing a continuity test.

Milwaukee makes a bore scope though it is around 160 dollars. If you can fit the end down inside there you should be able to see where it is at and pick it up.

The pump will only turn on for a few seconds when the key is turned to the RUN position and the engine isn't running. It is a safety feature. It will be on full time in the start position and when the engine is running. Your vehicle does have a relay. The resistor you refer to is for the level sensor in the tank possibly. There is no resistor for the pump motor. Your system may control the pump by making the ground connection inside the ECU. If you have voltage getting to the pump and it dosen't run the the ECU may be bad. I have fixed them for that problem in the past.

If the black wire is a ground wire then you should see no voltage on that wire comparing it to ground reference (the black meter probe tied to a good ground point). I first recommend you check for voltage on the blu/yel wire. If you don't have power there when the key is first turned on then you need to check the relay. Whatever color wire that is tied to the blu/yel wire at the connector is the color that should tie back to the relay so look for that wire color. Also remember that it only turns on for a few seconds. Your idea of using the test light will not work to drive the pump because the test light bulb will then be in series with the power to the the pump motor. That will turn on the light but very little voltage will get to the motor because of the high resistance of the light bulb compared to the low resistance of the motor.

My info states the relay is behind the left side of the dash. Look for a small round or cube device, about 1 inch wide, fitted into a socket. That is what relays look like. You will notice a number of them under the dash. You should be able to swap the relay to check it out once you find it and another that wil fit into the socket. They are pretty standard. Your procedure to measure the voltage on the wire is correct; set the meter to read DC volts. Solid black wires are usually ground wires but not all the time. I would suspect it is ground in this case. You can prove that by measuring the resistance on the wire to ground. Never measure resistances with power ON. The black wire may be the return side for the pump and ground someplace else inside the car. By applying 12 volts to the blu/yel wire the pump should turn on. Make sure that the return side of the pump wiring is making a ground connection if you do that so the circuit is complete.

Just about everything on the car uses 12 volt DC power to run it. Including the fuel pump. So you should have 12 volts across the two wires to the pump when the pump should be on. When you turn turn the key from OFF to RUN the pump will turn on for a couple seconds so you should see voltage then. Looking at some service data for your vehicle shows that the power wire from the relay to the pump is blk/red and changes to blu/yel somewhere. The other wire to the pump ties to ground. If you don't have 12 volts getting to the pump check the relay (should be under the dash) and the connections to the pump for good connection. Also make sure the ground connection to the pump is good. Since someone has already seen a low voltage to the pump it appears there is a problem in the power feed to the pump. EDIT: If you have MPFI then the wire color from the relay may be brown and ties to blu/yel for the pump. If you have a blu/yel wire going to the pump then whatever that ties to should be coming from the relay.

You're welcome.