Cougar

You can get factory services manuals on Ebay for a reasonable price. Most are on CDs.

Check the fusible links for a loose connection. Another possible trouble spot is the ignition switch or connection to it.

Code P0446 indicates a circuit problem so something is either wrong again in the wiring between the ECU and the device or the device itself is intermittent. The problem may be due to a dirty connnector contact. There will be a code record stored in the ECU unless the memory has been lost.

You may be able to put a thin magnet on the disk and then turn the shaft to see if you can pick up the extension.

I suggest you get a test light probe so you can verify where power is getting to and it is not. Check the brake light switch first. If that isn't getting power then check the fuse for power on both sides of it. If the warning lights don't turn on with the key turned to ON then check the power to the lights after the ignition switch. The ignition switch or the connector to it may have a problem.

Power to the headlights is provided on the center wire of the plug to the bulbs. There is also a relay in the power lead so the wire isn't always hot. The switch turns on the relay and also provides a ground to the selected light.

There should be a number of driving proceedures you can do that speed up the process to set the remaining monitors. There is a manual that the IM folks refer to that covers the list of things that need to be done while driving to set the monitiors though not all of them may have it. I used the list one time when I needed to have an IM test done and the memory was wiped due to a discharged battery. The tech I was working with was kind enough to let me write down the things I needed to do in order to set the monitors. I didn't get all of them set but it was enough to qualify to run the IM test.

Your equipment will be on the opposite side of a left hand drive car.

Try cranking the engine and then see if you can hear the pump. To see if the trouble really is due to a fuel problem you can spray some starter fluid into the intake and see if the engine tries to fire.

If you haven't cleaned the MAF sensor I would try that first before replacing anything.

The trouble may be due to the flasher unit. Just a guess.

The code states there is a problem with the circuit to the evaporative filter. Most likely a bad connection to it. There is a different code for a shorting problem.

Check the alternator for any AC ripple while the engine is running. If there is more than .1 volt then the alternator is bad.

Check the old sensor and see if there is continuity between one of the wires and the body of the sensor. There may be a common ground to both circuits but I suspect it would be just for the heater. Also I seem to recall that you should never try to check the resistance of the O2 sensor as it may damage it. Though I wouldn't think a digital meter could do that but I don't know for sure. The heater portion is not a problem to check.

My first thought on this problem is a faulty fuel pump. They can act the way you stated. A lean fuel/air ratio will make the engine backfire. Going up hills can make the engine sputter. Be sure the fuel pump relay is good also.

I don't want to be doom sayer but from the sounds of your comments be prepared for possible headgasket leaks.

I think one pair of wires on the new sensor is for the element and the other pair is for the heater. The origninal sensor may have grounded one side of the heater circuit to the sensor body and so only needed one wire to the heater. If this so you will need to ground one of the heater wires to make it work. See if you have some resistance to the old sensor body on one of the three wires. If so then I think what I stated is correct. The resistance will be fairly low, maybe around 10 ohms.

A CAS sensor is a crank angle sensor and a CAM sensor is a cam angle sensor.

Since it seems you are now real close the ignition timing may be off a little. Have someone crank the engine while you move the disty slightly both ways to see if that helps. Mark the starting position before you move it in case you need to put it back.

The problem may be due to a faulty CAS sensor or possibly the CAM sensor. Some folks have fixed this sort of trouble replacing them. Checking the signals with a scope may show up something.

Perhaps the trouble is with the fuel pressure regulator.

Spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if that makes the engine fire up. If that doesn't work then you need to check the compression.

Glad to hear you found the problem. Along with the blower relay, the other three relays are for the left an right head lights and the rear defogger system. The turn signal/hazard unit is near them also.

When you replaced the cap are you certain you got the plug wires back in the correct positions? If they are ok then I suggest you check the compression next.

I think there are 4 relays under the dash near the center of the firewall. One of them is for the blower I believe.