Cougar

If AC is getting to the battery it can damage it. Hopefully you can find a place that can check it for you before you leave. It is a very quick check.

I'm confused. In your first post you stated that you pulled the turn signal flasher and it made no difference, the left light still blinked. Now here you are saying it went out. The turn signal flasher should be one unit.

Normally DC voltage is all you need to check because that is what it should be, normally. You need to set the meter to read AC VOLTAGE for this test. We just want to be sure that there isn't any AC component coming from the alternator causing the trouble you are having. The engine needs to running for this test.

If you have any AC voltage present at the battery you will need to replace the alternator.

Since you stated that the speedometer and cruise control had troubles also have the voltage tested at the battery. Along with looking at the DC voltage while the engine is running check to see if there is any AC voltage getting to the battery. There should be less than a tenth of a volt.

This trouble would seem to be due to a problem in the flasher unit. You stated you removed the turn signal flasher unit and hazard switch but the lights still worked. I don't think you had the correct module as the lights should have been disabled after the module was removed. This problem isn't happening because of anything wrong with the battery. The problem is within the right turn signal circuit.

You may need to disconnect the connectors to lower the unit down but they need to be connected to show the error code. There should be just a few screws holding the unit in place.

Yes that's it. The LED may be on the opposite end of the connectors.

Unless you cleaned the surfaces of the cable connectors that actually make contact with the battery posts you really haven't eliminated the connections as a possible problem. Since you state that acid really leaked out a lot then the contact surfaces to the battery posts and the inside of the cable wire near the connections are suspect. You can make a small 1 inch slit in the insulation near the end of the cable to see if corrosion has gotten inside the cable. Be sure to tape up the slit if you don't replace the cable so nothing can enter the slit.

Going by what the code states, 'Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input' the trouble is most likely with a connection between the TPS and the ECU and not the sensor. If the wiper of the sensor is not making good contact inside the sensor and causing the error code then it will be good to replace the sensor. By checking the voltage of the wiper at various throttle positions you should be able to tell if the sensor is working like it should be.

Since it sounds like the starter solenoid is getting power I agree that the problem is most likely at the battery connections going by what was stated in the last post by the original poster. Clean the battery connections using a battery post cleaning brush. Particularly, clean the inside surface of the cable connectors. The trouble may also be due to corrosion inside the main battery leads at the battery due to acid leaching into the wire and if so the damaged leads would need to be replaced.

As you may possibly know by now, the fuel pump motor is grounded through the ECU and as Gloyale stated, if the ECU doesn't see ignition pulses the fuel pump is turned off. That should cause an error code if that happens. If I remember correctly, the fuel pump relay is controlled by power from the ignition relay so that relay can cause this trouble also. I tend to think this trouble is due to a faulty relay but hopefully you have fixed the trouble. If the trouble returns then I would suspect the one of the relays as the cause.

I assume that when this trouble happens the engine cranks ok. If that is so you might try spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see if the engine trys to run then. If it still doesn't want to start then I would suspect an ignition problem, most likely due to a bad power connection somewhere.

If something in the power buss was grounding out then a fuse would have blown. At least if the wiring hasn't been messed with. Another possible source of this kind of trouble I forgot to mention is a bad connection in the ignition switch area.

I guess folks are catching on to something we have known for years. Go SUBARU!

Have a shop do a load test on the charging system. That will show what shape the battery and alternator are in and if something more needs to be done. The fusible link should be color coded to show the correct size. If there is a doubt to the correct size then you could check with the dealer or someone here may be able to help you with that if you told us which one you are questioning. As far as the cause of the first one burning out there may be an intermittent short somewhere. Keep some spares with you in case you need them later.

A 30ma current draw is normal. You should have no trouble starting the car with a good battery even after sitting several weeks at that rate. Have the starter current checked to make sure it isn't causing an excessive load on the battery and check the battery also to make sure it is in good shape.

When things black out under load like you mentioned the problem is usually due to a bad connection in the power lead to the accessories from the battery. That includes the fusible link connections. Be sure the battery connections are clean also.

The solenoid code can be fixed by using a resistor in place of the solenoid. I think about a 50 ohm size will do the trick. There should be a knock sensor on both engines so you either have a bad sensor or the circuit to it is bad. You don't give the codes so we can't tell what the real trouble is.

Ohh, my eyes! After seeing those pictures I had temporary blindness due to the shock. You poor soul.

If you can find the end of the w/r wire coming from the dash you can run a wire to that pin on the alternator and hopefully that will solve that trouble. Perhaps though the wiring is more mangled than I imagine and that isn't going to work.

The diagram in post #6 shows a simplified circuit of what we are talking about. As you see, the lead from the charge light goes through a isolation diode and to the alternator 'L' lead. When the key is ON and the engine OFF (KOEF), the voltage on the W/R lead at the alternator will be near zero volts (ground potential), lights ON. When the good alternator is running that lead will be near 12 volts and the lamps will turn off. Put the replacement alternator in and measure the voltage. You will see what I am saying. To see if the W/R wire at the alternator is working like it should remove it from the alternator and just touch the lead to ground. The warning lights should turn on.

What I told you is correct. If you don't believe me then you will have to trust me on that. I have to go catch a flight right now and do have time to explain further. I will try to get back to you on this later.

Since you have 12 volts on both wires you should be good. You have proved the alternator has an internal short so you need to replace it. When you install it and repair the wiring things should work ok. The wht/red wire has voltage applied to it and it runs through the battery warning light to the alternator field circuit. This circuit provides current to the exciter circuit in the alternator so the field can build up to produce the output of the alternator. Many years ago I learned the hard way about the warning light. If that light doesn't turn on when you turn on the warning lights there is no charging from the alternator. When the alternator builds up a charged field then the lead going to the w/r wire will have a 12 volt backfeed to the warning light. This will cause the light to go out, as it should when the alternator is working like it should, since there will be no difference of voltage across the lamp.

I think the plug on the back of the alternator should have two pins. One is for the regulator and the other is the lamp lead to the dash. Both leads should have 12 volts on them when the ignition is ON and engine is OFF. To see if the alternator is causing the fuse to blow, remove the leads going to it and try another fuse. If it doesn't blow the problem is the alternator. Be carefull working with the main lead to the alternator as it is always hot to the battery. Disconnecting the battery ground lead is a good safe practice when working on the alternator.