NickNakorn

Do you think you've ended up with the dizzy 180 degrees out?

Good point Smashed, I don't know - I imagine it would pass because many club racers have road-registered cars with non-standard tanks - but I'll look into it.

Hey, thanks Smashed Glass - that might well be a viable route - I'll check it out. I've also been thinking about making one myself as it's only a sheet of steel a few pipes and fixings and a weekend's work. It won't look original but at least I'll know it's strong!

Hi everyone, I'm in the UK where the L-Series was never massively popular but I've had 4 over the years and I'm doing a rolling restoration on my old red one. The last MOT for my 1992 l-series estate was ok but for a leaking petrol tank. I dropped the tank out of the car, decanted the fuel, washed out the tank and used a tank-sealing resin to seal up the various leaks. I then put it all back in and it passed the MOT. But now it's leaking again - either the repairs did not hold or it's sprung another hole. Anyway, I need to find another tank. Any suggestions - If the price is not too bad I could ship from overseas to UK but really I'm hoping to find a new-old-stock in the UK or close. Does the tank from the MV/Brat/Pickup fit? best wishes all, Nick

Cheers Ruparts! Very handy infomation - I haven't tried looking for a new one as most parts for these cars are now almost impossible in the UK because there were so few of them imported. But I'll certainly take a look. I've noticed this afternoon that the litle pipes are braised into the tank so I'll use solder rather than weld so I don't make matters worse. Best, Nick

I think 15 or 30 seconds rather than minutes to pump up the lifters but I agree about the careful cleaning and assembly of all the valve gear. Making sure all parts are really clean is essential - http://www.nagara.co.uk/Enginefit3.htm

Hi all, My trusty 1992 UK spec 1.8 L-series 4x4 Estate failed it's MOT last week due to a leaking petrol tank. I've removed the tank today and have found very small leaks in the rear seam and, in addition, two of the outlet pipes sheared off when I disconected their rubber pipes - they were really rusty. Here's my question I hope you can help me wirth: At the front of the tank it's the outlet that has sheared off while the return is OK. At the side near the filler it is the small breather (?) that has sheared while the other pipe connection (what is it?) is OK What I need to know is, are there one-way valves built into these tubes within the tank. There was a little bit of fuel still left in the tank when I removed it and both the unbroken pipes would not drain fuel when the tank was tipped while the broken pipes pissed it out. I intend to weld on some new pipes to replace the old ones and would normally clear the others with some compressed air but, if there are valves inside, I don't want to damage them. Further, would a SLOSH tank sealant mess them up? My Haynes is no use at all on this subject and was completely incorrect concerning tank removal and does not tell me what the small tubes at the side actually do. Best wishes all, Nick

I did a very careful stock rebuild last year and the improvement in performance was amazing - it was unreliable before but seemed to pull well even with all its overheating and tick-of-death problems. Now, over 5000 miles since the rebuild, it's running very, very well. I think I'd go for a swap if I wanted proper performance - or indeed a differnt car - but you'd be pretty pleased with the results of a stock rebuild.

Thanks for the clarification - further confusion was caused by the video you posted; that buggy was not rear engined but mid-engined. Now we know what you want we can help. Be good to see some pics as the project progresses, good luck with it. edit: Hey, wait a minute - I've just looked at the pic you've posted above - that's mid-engined too! I give up (as have everyone else and now I see why)

OK, my apologies - it's just that every suggestion made here has been rejected by you. So, lets get this straight, you want a rear engined 4X4 buggy. Fine, buy a rear-engined VW synchro and use the runing gear from that or just build your driveline using a transfer case. But you do realise that a rear-engined 4X4 buggy will have very little weight over the front wheels.

look, as we have all said - if you want to go mid-engined you can use the Suby engine and gearbox as it is. If you want to go rear engined there are many firms who will sell adapters to mate suby engines to VW gearboxes. What's the problem or is this just a troll post? You say 'no one else has done it yet' well, I doubt that very much.

I think Eric the Car Guy in the video above is totally wrong. A cheap split-boot and some fresh grease costs less than £5, requires no disassembly and will increase the life of a worn joint hugely. If you use your car for work off road (as I used to do) I might replace the boots several times a year due to damage. The modern glues supplied with a split boot are really good and work very well. He also assumes that drive shafts (as we call them here) are cheap and plentiful. Not so in many many places around the world. I also think that 'waste-not-want-not' is a better policy financially and environmentally. I very much liked the vid from Miles though - I do that job in exactly the same way. The only things I'd add would be to (A) clean any parts you're working on before you take them off, clean them again when they're off and give them a coat of paint. I'd also take the opportunity to heck the bearings (have a new oil seal handy) and add some grease to the bearings before putting the drive shaft back into the hub.

The small but excellent UK mvBrat/Brumby club attended JapFest2 this weekend at Donington race track. Huge thanks to Giles, Mo and everyone else for a great day out. Marvelous to see so many trucks there and extraordinary to see the boy-racer creations up close. Here are a few snaps

Yes, when they are a compound shape, it helps to have an original capable of being used as a plug. But for simple shapes (like cylinders or even 'top hats') you can pour into cardboard shapes or make a clay plug.

Cheaper to make them here in UK (UK prices are just silly expensive - not that they're at all easy to get). See http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136620-making-a-polyurethene-bush-or-bushing/