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NickNakorn

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Everything posted by NickNakorn

  1. NickNakorn
    first class work - excellent; my parts look very crude by comparison (but cheap!).
  2. NickNakorn
    Hi all, many thanks for your positive comments. Bendecker, did you use a vinyl mould or is that a plaster mould with blue relase agent on it for those mirrot backs?
  3. NickNakorn
    Well, it seems to have worked! For how it was done go to: http://www.nagara.co.uk/MakingBushes.htm They're not perfect but they're good enough for a top spring-damper mount.
  4. NickNakorn
    I'm assuming you have a standard alloy inlet manifold - in which case oxy-acetylene will be way too hot if you're not super careful with it - a normal blow lamp will be hot enough. I've had success drilling things out over the years and agree with Subruise. Also, when I've not been in too much of a hurry, I've left things to soak in penetrating oil - duck-oil, WD40, diesel or even transmission fluid for a few days.
  5. NickNakorn
    I haven't even thought of mice... I might get one of those electronic high-pitched scarers and plug one in...
  6. NickNakorn
    I've just bought some casting polyurethene, some clay and some plaster of paris. Because replacement bushes are so expensive here, I intend to make my own. To start off, I'm going to try two simple shapes for my spring-damper top mounts. I'm making a mold this evening and will let you know how it goes and post some pics later.
  7. NickNakorn
    A very interesting idea; most drivers notice improved performance in colder, damper weather because the air-fuel charge will expand more from a colder ambient when ignited. Some cars are more sensitive to this than others. Non-cross-flow cylinder heads can be particulary sensitve to this because their exhaust manifold heats their inlet manifold. Our Subarus benefit from a reasonably cool inlet position - spoiled somewhat by it's cold-start water jacket. I note that performance inlet manifolds for the EA82 sensibly do away with that feature. I think you should give it a go and see if it makes a difference - I think it probably will. Be great to see some pics of the installment too.
  8. NickNakorn
    ...but it's so satisfying when they're all fixed...
  9. NickNakorn
    I've not replaced the whole pump because I got a good deal on a new pump rotor assembly from my local Subaru dealer; it did not solve the problem at all - but there were massive oil leaks and numerous other problems - not least, overheating. Since then I've rebuilt the engine with all new seals and new lash adjusters and it runs very quietly. But I've not yet used the car because I'm doing numerous other jobs on it. I hope to report that the TOD has gone for good once I've put some miles on the rebuilt engine.
  10. NickNakorn
    And now for PART FOUR http://www.nagara.co.uk/leftarch4.htm catching up with the EA82 diary...
  11. NickNakorn
    An excellent project! I have similar plans for one of my L-series - though I plan to make mine fully street legal...
  12. NickNakorn
    Part Three of my Left-hand rear wheel-arch repair is now up at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/leftarch3.htm and there's a new pic on the bump-stop bracket page at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/Making%20a%20Bump.htm and, as usual the whole story menu is at: http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm This week I'll be doing all sorts of minor jobs to get the car ready for it's annual MOT test and hopefully I'll have the Honda in the workshop before the end of the month. After that, it'll be my 'secret' project - a prototype coupe based on a much-loved classic.
  13. NickNakorn
    Ensuring all surfaces are really clean and free of distortion, grooves and gouges is the key to a good seal, O rings and oil seals generally don't need added sealants (in fact they are sometimes a cause of leaks when they stop a seal from seating) though occasionally a damaged housing can benefit.
  14. NickNakorn
    I've found Monroe to be very helpful - I've just bought a pair for my L-series EA82 (UK) but can't yet vouch for their quality. But They had a really good reputation years ago. http://www.monroe.com/ A new lower coil-spring retainer and lower mounting bush is included but none of the upper bushes nor coaxial bump-stop. A pain as I now have to source those separately. Above, shocking state of the old unit - still working after a fashion but not brilliant. Above, after a good clean and a quick blast the top bracket is still OK; thick metal! Above, parts cleaned. Above, ...and back together again. I've used the old coaxial bump and top rubbers but will replace them soon when I get around to measuring them, sourcing, ordering etc... I need to do this because the other side was worse and I had to destroy the top rubbers to get the thing apart. So I'll end up with good units eventually!
  15. NickNakorn
    The standard of your work looks superb - I'm beginning to think I should have decked my blocks too just to see them looking so good! But they were within spec...
  16. NickNakorn
    I used a branded spray-on dry cleaning foam on a Nissan and it worked really well - the seat came up almost like new. I'll be doing the same on my Subaru once it's out of the workshop.
  17. NickNakorn
    I've had several EA82 engined cars over the years and only had the TOD on my last one (Engine now rebuilt - see http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm) at about 165,000 miles. The previous car ran quietly for 200,000 miles and, though it overheated badly a few times due to blown hoses and a worn out radiator, was a really smooth runner. The noisy car was in a sad state when I bought it and had a bad oil leak. The quiet one was much better with only minor oil leaks so I think oil flow and pressure are vitally important. Like many here, I replaced seals, oil-pump rotor and so-on on the noisy one without any improvement lasting more than a day. Now the full rebuild has included everything on the list I had not already done (though some new seals were replaced again) - new lifters too. So far, very quiet but the car is not yet on the road again as I'm finishing all the welding. Lets hope it stays quiet!
  18. NickNakorn
    Uber, I've witnessed a couple of accidents with people trying that - luckily no serious harm but it really can go wrong.
  19. NickNakorn
    Alternative access to the ring-gear on the flywheel can be had by removing the starter-motor and using a large screwdriver or pry-bar in the ring-gear to block the flywheel. Depending on the length of the breaker-bar on the socket on the crank-pulley bolt , you might need a helper or very, very long arms!
  20. NickNakorn
    Hey Hoboken - many, many thanks for your encouragement. I'll change the colour of the type (I'm using old-school MS Word to make my webpages and it doesn't always do the wysiwyg thing). Of course I kid myself that the pages will be useful so it's very gratifying to know that someone else thinks so too.
  21. NickNakorn
    Cheers mate!
  22. NickNakorn
    http://www.nagara.co.uk/Making%20a%20Bump.htm Another page for petrol-heads and mechanical nerds!
  23. NickNakorn
    http://www.nagara.co.uk/leftarch2.htm Welding, welding, welding, Hi Ho! more pics via above link...
  24. NickNakorn
    Doors wouldn't close on level ground! :-) I had a Triumph Convertible like that! I think it would have been more economical for me to have scrapped Subaru but, as there are very, very few of them left in the UK - 11 last time I looked http://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/subaru_1.8_4wd_dl - there's no chance of getting one in good condition now. So I've repaired mine in the hope it will now last another 20 years; indeed, it could easily last longer than me! (if there's any affordable petrol left!)
  25. NickNakorn
    Yes, you are absolutely right. It's amazing how some bodgers are oblivious to the dangers they are presenting to unsuspecting later owners - it's criminal in my view. I used to drive that car at 70-80 mph regularly back and forth from Devon to London (200 miles each way)... shudder to think of the accidents I could have had...
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