Suzam

No radio removal. I should see the car in person this weekend but the outdoor temp will be in the mid 90's so I'm not going to be able to do much R&R. Maybe just a cursory look-see for more information.

Trying to diagnose from a distance. AC works except that the refrigerated cold air only coming from the passenger dash vent. The air coming out of the other vents is not cold, seem like recirculated or outside air coming in from what I can gather from my daughter the air will come out by the feet but not forcefully when switched. This just happened suddenly without warning when the C was turned on, proir to this it was working correctly. I won't see this car for a week or more and trying to help out remotely. 2012 Impreza Sport

My 81 year old father-in-law has a 2013 Forester with 108k miles with diagnosed HG issues from both a dealer and independent mechanic that is not necessarily a "Subaru specialist". The dealer quote "about $4k" for new head gaskets and I'm assuming that includes new timing belt, etc. maintenance/service as well. I'm on the east coast and looking from a distance for a Subaru shop near Brighton CO that he can go to with confidence of not being taken advantage of. Looking for recommendations.

There is a feature that has an alert whenever the speed limit changes as a warning when you enter a different speed limit or exceed the posted limit. Is what you're hearing a beep similar to when the eyesite locks in or a different tone?

I put stock 2002 WRX wheels and tires on my 95 Legacy no problem. Moved them over to a 98 Legacy Wagon a few years later.

Just starting a car and idling doesn't help a battery stay charged very much. The amount of energy used for a cold start will take a pretty long time to recover by idling at low RPMs to get any benefit. Assuming the battery is in good shape, it would need a good 15-20 minutes of highway driving to keep the alternator amps up for charging, to keep it in top shape. As batteries age they lose the Cold Cranking Amps on their own. The colder weather just stresses them that much more

Follow up: My daughter talked with her mechanic yesterday and he asked her to come in tomorrow when he'll have time to to pull the codes, however this afternoon when she went to go home after work all the lights were now off. Seems it cycled enough to reset itself. Since she already planned on stopping at the mechanic tomorrow, she still will get the codes to see what it recorded. She also took the initiative and double checked the gas cap and any wire group plugs and caps she could see under the hood yesterday, but the problem continued for 2 more cycles of starting and driving..

Trying to diagnose my daughter's car from a distance. As the title says, this is a 2012 Impreza Sport. These warning lights came on last night when she was parking in her neighborhood and slipping around on ice and never went off: vehicle dynamics, check engine, abs, with a flashing “cruise”. The weather was snow that turned to sleet and freezing rain for a time, so there was a lot of slushy conditions on the main roads and frozen stuff in the neighborhoods. She did drive to work this morning with them all still on. She says the car seems to drive normally with no strange noises. I'm wondering if it could this be packed snow, or did possibly pulled something loose underneath if she was in a snow pile? I told her if they were still on afterwork she should try to get to her service shop. They are small but not very Subaru specific but a good general mechanic IMG_1404.heic

I know all car manufacturers do not recommend using cruise control in bad weather, probably best to use as little automated drive assist as possible in rain & snow. I keep lane assist off by default unless on a major multi-lane highway with the cruise on. On smaller single lane and back roads the lane assist seems to want to make unnecessary micro adjustments.

how much spin? what surface? Tire condition? From a dead stop? Does it change when you put a FWD fuse in?

NIpper, we traded a 2001 OBW LTD for a new 2017 OB Touring which we love. As I'm sure you know the touring came equipped with virtually all the extra add-ons from the 2017 LTD model. The only option we didn't go for was the 6-cylinder and I don't regret it. We also have a 2013 Legacy Ltd 2.5 CVT that is very similar in performance although the CVT itself is a slightly different noticeable design. I will tell you that the 2017 2.5 with CVT is a world away from those earlier models in the way the car responds and uses the engine power. We travel a lot visiting family in central Pennsylvania and the old 2.5 with the EAT trans would lug and struggle up mountainous hills, constantly downshifting to maintain speed and seemingly never want to go back up to a higher gear. Once it did upshift it would want to downshift again almost immediately. Any subaru owner with an older 2.5 with the 4EAT will know what I'm referring to. It has a much larger interior than the pre-2010 models. It's size jump is like going from an Impreza to an OB in the early 2000 model versions - there's that much of a difference. My daughter's 2014 Impreza Sport is the same size interior as the pre-2010 Legacy/Outback body styles. It's not a drag racer, but I've never gotten onto a situation where I felt we needed much more than it offers, honestly if it had another 20HP it would be ideal, but the occasional times I would think that are few and far between. Merging into 70+ MPH traffic on the PA Turnpike from a rest stop for example, but it passes well at higher speeds and has no trouble maintaining 80+ MPH climbing the afore mention mountain highways. I can't rationalize a jump up to the 6 just for that HP for that much of a difference in MPG, although a previously owned car's initial cost could theoretically make up for that added fuel usage if the price is right. BTW, if you've never experienced it EYEsite is amazing. That is worth the money hands down for daily and long distance driving.

Like the title asks, the 2005 pictures I’ve seen have a more squared clamp. Will the roof cross bars interchange? Specifically from a 2001 to 2005? I can’t find specific part numbers for either model.

It's been a while but as I recall, the 2005 horns are mounted in front of the radiator behind the lower part of the front grill just above the bumper. The wires originally we secured to a point near them, so unless someone pullled or cut them off they should be nearby.

Sounds like it could be a free wheeling drive axle. Have you checked the CV joints? Classic symptom of "park" not working since there's an open drive shaft. Are you saying the noise continues with the car stopped with the engine running or just when moving?

Check for rust and rot in the usual places. Mostly on the rear quarter panels and also get a close look at the underside and inspect the rear sub frame! They have been known to rust out to the point where the car is not repairable.

Maintenance is 10 years or 105,000 mile replacement for the 2011 2.5 timing belt. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2011.html#warranty

No fuel economy is gained on Subaru's AWD system with the fuse inserted. Do a search on the forum, there has been many exchanges of ideas but it all boils down to added weight to the vehicle, not drag on the drive train.

Are you in Montco or Delco Springfield? BJ's, Costco and NTB all sell name brands at good prices. I put both Michelin or Bridgestone on our Subies as replacements for years and been happy with both. The Michelins last longer but as they age get a harder ride and traction starts to diminish. The Bridgestones perform just as well for a longer period but wear faster.

Anti-lock brake pump?

A quick answer to holding onto the wheel. The car is looking for resistance feedback in the steering mechanism to recognize if there is someone in control of the wheel. If it feels none it alerts. If you have to be touching it specifically with your hands then gloves would interfere. Also, you couldn't hold it by the center spokes.

CAA might move it if you tell them it needs repair but the shop where it is isn't going to fix it and that they may start charging you a fee for storage if you don't move it. Technically that's true, since the shop won't be fixing it (your choice), and I bet they could start charging storage. Just call CAA and simply request them to move the car without too much detail, if you get the right person who doesn't ask a lot of questions they might do it. I sold my wrecked Legacy that was in my driveway and called AAA and had them tow it to the buyers home. No questions asked because it was the first call to have that specific car towed from that location. I just supplied the pick up and drop off addresses.

Wouldn't it be easier to rent a u-haul trailer?

Are you sure it's the hatch? I had a license plate that used to make a lot of noise. Is it while driving only ar can you get it to make the sound manually?

As with all car brands, first year models tend to still have some things that need to be shaken out. Plus those that want them will find it hard to negotiate a good price. Unless the Outback is too small, that would be what I would have him look at first and see if that will suit him. All the "bugs" have been ironed out. My 2 cents.

What type of transmission failure and what if any steps to repair did you try? Also the rear underside frame work on this model is known to rust out to the point of the causing rear suspension issues.