Suzam

It may not be the steering column switch. pamike says they are on when running and I also believe that the dash light don't go on with the switch either. I am assuming by the post that they do go off when the key is removed from the ignition switch?

Is it even wear across the tread? I would doubt the LSD is at fault. If it failed you would most likely have greater symptoms.

How about when you apply the brakes fairly hard. Does it make it worse? It could be warped rotors.

My mother-in-law can't wear watches, they just quit running on her. Maybe you have bad mojo, or someone has put a curse on you or the car. Do you have any enemies?

Granted the symptoms of a possible head gasket are there but a "temp gauge fluctuating" isn't an overheating spike and there has been no boil over. It's possible since there was no exhaust gases detected in the coolant that it's a simpler problem. A $5 radiator cap and a burp of the coolant system might cure the issue before the head gaskets are condemned. As long as the engine doesn't overheat to the point of warping the heads if it is indeed a bad gasket.

Can you give us the year, model and engine size? you should do a search on the board for "Burp" or "Burping". You may have air trapped in the system since the reservoir was empty. Also buy a new radiator cap, the one on there may not be working correctly and needs replacement.

Good job and great pictures. Maybe you should go into the rebuild business!

There are an amazing amount of discussions on the board about this. A search would provide a plethora of knowledge. Suffice to say Subarus always provide some power to all wheels, usually 90% front & 10% rear. If 1 or 2 tires are of a different circumference the internal clutches (auto) or viscous coupling (manual) will always be working to compensate for the differences. The AWD system sees this a slippage. The greater the difference the quicker the wear. So yes, replace all tires at once unless the difference in circumference is less than 1/4", as recommended by Subaru.

One of the Denver area members might be able to tell you where there is a pick 'n pull junk yard. I'd just find one there and cut off enough wire to solder to what's left on yours. And welcome to the board!!!

It's not unlikely that the unmarked bulbs are originals. I have only replaced one H1 headlight on my '01 since it was purchased new.

I put a hidden-hitch on my 01 OBW about 7 years ago that works well. Drawtight seems to be a good quality also. In '01 the plug for the trailer lights is in the rear fender on the passenger side. I have to remove the small carpet board and the black spacer on that side to get to it. It took some fishing around to get it. Some members have said that the '02 models plug is on the driver's side in roughly the same place as the '01 is on the passenger side. Basically between the rear and the wheel well in the fender.

:banana:Congrats on your purchase! And now you know where to come when you need info or have questions too!!!

Yeah I have a 97 Legacy Wagon with a rattle in the down pipe. I swore it was the heat shields until I finally got it on a lift with someone modulating the gas pedal and tracked it down. Only solution I know if is live with it or replace it ($$).

Put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood on the passenger side near the firewall (any amp size will do) and see if the problem goes away. If it does then there is a chance that the fluid changes will help. If not then you may have to look for a replacement extension housing on the transmission. If you feel it needs a mechanics touch, find one who has Subaru knowledge. A local mechanic may not be able to diagnose or service the problem without experience with the AWD system.

The rattle you are hear could be just the heat shields on the exhaust, they are famous for coming loose and rattling. The "Death Rattle" you are referring to that was posted by ricearu is an internal engine issue that would be very obvious if you hear it. More of a dull hammer sound hitting a solid piece of aluminum. The heat shields usually rattle at idle while in gear and on acceleration at certain RPMs. Sounds like a muted coffee can with some coins in it shaken at a fast pace. Torque bind is pretty straight forward, if it binds you'd know it. It's like a jerky feeling as if someone is pushing easy on the brakes a couple of times a second when you drive in tight circles. One more thing to check is for a fuse in the FWD slot under the hood on the passenger side near the firewall. It's a small black plastic fuse holder with white letters on the lid. It should be empty, if not someone put it in to disable the AWD. If present, take it out and try the tight turns again since the should be no reason to have it installed. Also the tires should be all the same type with the same tread wear, Subaru recommends they be no more the 1/4 inch different in circumference. It the tire are mismatched by brand or tread depth, that's not good. The coolant leak is usually a dirty blackish stain on the underside of the engine where the head meets the block. Unless it's severe, it's only a weeping type of leak. You may never see it looking wet.

One other thing to check if you look at a model with dual sunroofs is to make sure the front one tilts correctly and the rear one opens with the shade following it correctly. As they get older there are sometimes issues with smooth operation.

+1 on on what grossgary said about torque bind testing. My '01 2.5 gets 19-20 MPG around town when the wife drives (she has a tendency to launch from stops and use the brakes harder than I do). Then I'd say 20-21 when I drive my conservative style (easy take offs and coasting more to stops, etc). Mixed driving gives me about 23 average. Highway you could expect around 27 MPG on a long trip at 65+ MPH. I always wanted to say this: "Your mileage may vary."

It would help if you post the model and year of car for us.

The grinding clicking noise doesn't say wheel bearing to me. Most times that's a steady WUB-WUB-WUB noise that may increase in a turn. Even if your CV boots look fine, the joint itself could be broken internally. Was it the donut type of spare you were using? With the different diameter of the donut you could have strained the CV joints enough to cause a failure.

Larger brakes on Outbacks started in '01. I know this because I have one. Also limited slip rears became standard on LTD models in '01 and then regular Outbacks in '02. In CT you should be fine with all seasons. The only time I wish I had snows was heading into the Poconos or White Mountains in NH during ski season. It isn't so much the Subaru as the other drivers that cause you to wish you had better braking and handling with snow tires to avoid them. Otherwise the car performs quite well with plain all-seasons tires.

2000 has smaller front disk brakes and was the first year of that body style. I'd look for a 2001 or newer. If the belt was done at a dealer it will be on record in Subaru's data bank history.

We have an '01 Outback LTD and a '98 Outback LTD (no sunroof) as well as a 97 Legacy L wagon in the family. We did have a 95 Legacy L sedan and the head room in the older models was better than the '01 with the dual sun roofs. I'm 6'3" and have to recline the '01 seat back more than I like for comfort. If it did not have a sun roof it would be roomier than the other models. I also notice that the electrically controlled front seat is slightly higher to accommodate the motor under the seat, even when move down to it's limit.

+1 on 211's comment. First thing I though of. The other explanation could be a minor leak somewhere in the car causing extra humidity, like bad weather stripping somewhere that soaks into the carpeting.

#1 - Have you had the car long or is it "new" to you? #2 - Do you know if the AWD ever worked? #3 - Are you SURE it's an AWD model? (95 was the last year that Subaru offered a 2wd version).

Now the diagnosis fun begins!