Suzam

Is he sure it's just the Duty C? If the dealer installs his part and it doesn't fix the problem he's out the part and cost of install with no guarantee/warranty on fixing the problem.

When you say the alternator is "new" was it a rebuilt unit? If so it could be bad and needs to be replaced. Also check the belt tension.

I've installed OEM driving lights on a 95 and 97 and unless there is a problem in the wiring at the gray junction box next to the kick plate on the driver's side then I'd say NO they don't seem related. Have you checked the H1 bulbs in the lights themselves? If they are OK then trace the wire coming though the firewall. As I recall there is one plug near the steering column and another that plugs into the relay attached to the gray box I mentioned. There are also 2 wires that as I recall are yellow and blue striped that need to be vampire clipped to 2 wires also near that gray box. If you need it I might be able to find the original wiring instructions for the lights. As for your other problem, check the plunger switches in the door frames for a bad/broken switch for the dome lights.

I'd also like to know what year is the replacement motor. And if it's a 2.2 or 2.5.

Yes, most of us here on the board will tell you to only use the OEM Subaru T-Stat. I had an aftermarket that wouldn't let the engine maintain it's steady temp. it would continually let the temp rise to 3/4 of the gauge the drop back to half way which was normal. Burping the cooling system correctly is extremely important also.

+1 on spin the rear tires. I doubt you have an LSD on a 1999. 2000 was the first year for Outback to have a VLSD rear on the Outback Limited and that was an option. 2001 Limited came standard with VLSD and options on the reg Outbacks.

This is an interference engine so you may have damage you wouldn't find until you pull the heads on both sides if the T-belt slipped or snapped. Ideal would be a 2.2 transplant from a 95.

The conditioner from Subaru wouldn't do anything for a PHASE I 2.5 since it is an internal compression pressure leak. The conditioner is for the PHASE II external leak. No need to assume that it has already had a head gasket issue because some of the the 2.5 gaskets are known to go well into the higher 100k mile before showing symptoms. It isn't a sure thing that they will fail early. I've got a 98 2.5 with coming up on 150k and is running fine.

It could just be the starter solenoid contacts. Cheap and easy to fix. Search the forum for similar problems.

If the seller is showing receipts on work done like t-stat, water pump, coolant flush and new antifreeze etc. Could be a red flag that they were trying to fix an overheating bad gasket issue before they gave up and decided to sell. Otherwise it look like a nice buy.

Subaru has a specific way of refilling the coolant system. Did you burp?

We have a 98 OBW also has frayed, I just figured my Mother -In-Law was to blame since it's her car. Never had our others with similar mileage fray. They are a 95, 97 and 2001, all in good shape. Makes me wonder if there was a bad batch in 98? Most mechanics will not replace with a used belt for insurance reasons (theirs for being sued if it failed) so a new seat belt unit installed is what they want to do (no doubt, would be expensive).

Did you intsall a new PVC valve? Also once it starts, how does it run in general?

Could be the alarm system. Has the battery been disconnected or died and been replaced recently? I believe the cure was to disconnect the battery, turn the ignition key on to the run position, leave on and reconnect the battery. Do a search in the forum for forester blinking lights and see if you find a similar story and the cure.

While the separator plate could be a source for leaks, most common ones are cams seals, valve cover gaskets and the oil pump backing plate "O" rings. If you are due for a timing belt change soon, these are all things that can be done at that time to save labor since the timing belt covers will be off offering easy access. I'd shoot for those first since the cam seals usually last 80-120k miles before they start leak oil. I would only go after the separator plate after all the other seals are done and you still have leak issues. And welcome to the board, you'll fine plenty of Subaru info here.

Chances are you have snow packed up inside your wheels that is not allowing the ABS to read the tone ring. Once the snow melts or gets cleared out it should start working again.

If your brakes are that bad and you have no experience with brake work or hydraulics I would get your car to a mechanic right away. Do not pass GO. Do not collect $200. Using the emergency brake is more than "sketchy" it's dangerous. my 2¢...:-\

Any Subaru 15 or 16 inch wheels should work with tires up to 225/60/16, since you have Outback lift clearance. I personally have WRX wheels on a 97 Legacy L wagon with 205/55/16 tires and no issues. I think you be safe with 95 through 04 as far years to look for. I wouldn't recommend trying 14 inch wheels as they may not fit or at least be lousy for handling. Not sure which year SOA offer the 17 inch wheels and I'm not sure they would clear when mounted. You could try a search on the board for anyone that might have tried the 17 inch tire and wheel setup.

I've had a set of 2002 WRX wheels on a 95 Legacy L sedan and currently on a 97 Legacy L wagon. Never had a clearance issue with the 205/55/16 size. Never a problem with strange wear or on alignments, no special adjustments needed.

Hmmm... not sure I agree with that. The computer is seeing the post cat o2 sensor having too much activity. This could be because of a bad o2 sensor which is cheaper than replacing a cat and would most likely be replaced when installing a new cat anyway. if it didn't cure the code issue then maybe a new cat is in order.

If you look at the bottom of this post, there are links to similar questions. Short list: External headgasket leak. Torque bind Tire condition(all 4 should be matched in age, size and wear)

How many miles are on the car? I had a 95 that did the same thing at about 125k, it would throw a CEL every so often but the light would go out on it's own after a day or two. The O2 sensors get tired after a while and start acting up. It could be that you just need to put in a new O2 sensor.

I would like themoneypit to keep us informed on his adventure. If a 2.5 with a bad headgasket can be kept running for a few months while someone looks for a replacement 2.2 or waits for better weather this could be a lifesaver in the short-run, assuming it doesn't cause any collateral issues with the heater core or radiator.

+1 I'm no an expert either but the main problem is not coolant "loss" into the cylinders, but high pressure compression gases forcing the coolant in the system out through the radiator cap causing "air" pockets. That's why there are bubbles and oil in the overflow and also why a hydrocarbon test comes back positive. It's also, in most cases reported on the board here, causes the overheating only when under heavy use like higher constant revs on a highway or climbing hills, not at idle or driving around town.

Hey, at least you figured it out before causing any damage and you'll never do that again. Live and learn!