Suzam

Does the noise remain at a constant volume or quiet down after the engine has been running at operating temp for 10 to 20 minutes?

hood pins would work... but that's extreme. If all the rest fail, the latch is held in position with 2 bolts. Loosen them slightly, not enough to let the latch drop down on it's own (or scribe the height of the latch before you start) and move it a little higher, it won't take much. Tighten and drive it until it pops again or stays in place. There might be rubber adjusters on either side of the front to adjust the alignment compared to the fenders.

My first thought is a coolant temp sensor going bad. They aren't expensive and relatively easy to replace. I had on on a MY95 that did have similar symptoms. Never threw a CEL and once changed the idle went back to acting normal. You should do a search because I think there is a post showing the location of the sensor. BTW- please keep us posted when you do track down and fix the problem so anyone else that has the same issue will know what to try.

I just read the cars101 link myself and the last line of the paragraph says: " Yes, the dashboard instrument panel lights will flash when the parking lights flash." This would be a clue if that is happening.

I worked pulled hammered and swore at my rear rotors on my 87 wagon once until my knuckles were bloody. I realized I had pulled the parking brake on before I put it up on jack stands! DUH!

If he's disconnected the battery when he worked on the car it sounds like the visual part of an alarm system. See this similar problem post. I assume he tried starting with the key? Did he also try locking/unlocking the door with the key. Cars101.com describes some ways to defeat the alarm without the remote: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :banana::banana::banana:

Did it do it before the tune-up, right after or come on later?

93 through early 2004 Imprezas are the same part number Here is the link for the part at subarupartsforyou,com If you look there check the Legacy/Outbacks too they might all be the same.

Hard to hear but that sounds more like a heat shield to me.

We could use more info on your problem. How many miles on the car? Have you checked the trans fluid level and condition? Are you entering a highway (accelerating) or exiting (decelerating) or just cruising through the turn off the throttle? Can you repeat the problem doing a left turn in a parking lot or something similar to the right hand ramp? Does it happen every time?

+1 on the headgaskets. Do some research on this forum and decide how you want to proceed. You didn't mention the mileage but there's a good chance you caught it before any heat damage to the heads so new gaskets now should get you back up and running before you know it. The overheating you mention is a classic Subaru internal blown gasket symptom. Gases pass through to the cooling system and create air pockets and stop the constant flow of coolant through the system. As it gets worse you may see bubbles in the overflow. You can get a hydrocarbon test to see if exhaust is present in the coolant also you can sniff the overflow to see if it smells like exhaust but that isn't an iron clad proof that it's not if you don't smell it. Keep us posted on your progress.

Sounds like one possibility is low or tired trans fluid. Find your dipstick and check the level, since it's newer to you if you are unsure of the service then a fluid change may me all you need.

Mileage and maintenance info would help. Any major work done lately like timing belt, wires, plugs etc. Is this is a 2.2 liter Brighton? +1 on the CEL. If CEL is on have the codes read.

My money is on a bad wheel bearing and a bad ground or alternator.

Nipper, were they your struts or Blu's? I can't tell from you answer!

The is a D.O.T. code on the sidewall of all tires. The 4 digits are the week and year of manufacture. ie: 2607 would be the 26th week of 2007. That's a good deal on the wheels and tires assuming the tires are good. Anything over 6 years could be a problem as the tire can't handle stress and heat as it ages. Also check for an even wear on all 4, you don't want to put mismatched diameter tires on your car either.

It's not that a water pump can't go 200k, my sister never replaced the water pump in her Toyota and it has 180k+ on it now. Changing out a water pump with the T-belt isn't mandatory, just preventive maintenance. More of an insurance thing or piece of mind. I've gone 2 T-belt changes before the water pump, so it had 120k on it. You aren't guaranteed a failure if you don't change it, but the odds do go up. You don't change out the alternator with every timing belt because it has easy access. Water pumps are more labor intensive to replace on their own so it just makes economic sense to replace while you're in there. Another factor is the potential of a bad water pump is bearing seizure which can cause the T-belt to jump or break. Not a good thing, so again, it's insurance. I'm not saying you don't roll the dice if you don't change a water pump, but there isn't any reason to think it couldn't go the distance. Depends on if your a risk taker.

I just tried it and it seems fine. Look at the bottom of this post for links. There are several that you can go to and then relink to the ones at the bottom of those.

Test drive it on gravel or a grass patch and see if it behaves like an AWD and not just spinning the front wheels. Drive in TIGHT circles on pavement in a parking lot where you can do a few figure 8's and see if anything makes unusual noise or you feel a binding of the drive train. Use the search option here on the board for "Torque Bind" and check the car for symptoms of that, also some 95 models aren't AWD, check and make sure. If it's an automatic make sure that there is no fuse in the FWD holder under the hood on the passenger side by the firewall. Otherwise the 95 was a great year. I had one that we'd still drive if not for an accident a year and a half ago. You may find yourself keeping it longer than you plan to.

OK good. If your still interested I'm gonna dig through the storage above my garage and find the wiring stuff tomorrow if i get up there before it gets too hot.

I'm having a little trouble with orienting your photos but you don't have to remove the whole skin. Just cutout the square blanks in the plastic and directly above the opening there should be 2 holes above there that are vertical (heading straight up) in the inner bumper beam. The original light kit came with self tapping nut headed screws that you screw in the holes and they have threaded center holes that the bolts go into. If the nuts are missing you may have to use a bolt and washer setup or something else but I don't think those holes pass all the way though. Do you have pictures of the lights bolts, and brackets on them? Here's a picture of my 95, should look similar to what yours is:

They were not prewired, all MY95-99 had a kit with all the relays wires and switches to install them. I think I have a complete wire set I pulled out of my old 95 after an accident (minus a couple of vampire clips and plugs). PM me if you're interested and I'll dig it out and give you a rundown of what I have and anything additional you might need. I even have the installation instructions.

You know if it were me and the lock functions normally, other than opening with any key, I'd leave it alone. The chances of someone trying to use the lock for a break-in is unlikely. Most times the frameless window glass is pulled back enough to poke something in to hit the button or worse, a rock or like object gets passed through the same space that the glass is occupying at the time (although briefly). You could try lubricating the lock in case the pins are stuck inside at the unlocked position.

How many miles on the engine itself and on the HGs? How old is the coolant? It may need changing or a burp. If you can, feel the lower radiator hose if it overheats again, if it's cooler could be a clogged radiator or bad thermostat.