Suzam

My old 95 Legacy used to do it all the time. A couple of years ago there was a couple of threads about that era model shaking the open windows it was so bad. What RPMs at idle do you have for neutral and in drive now? I'm not sure if you're having the same problem but if no mechanical solution presents itself other than a tune up or checking the TPS, knock sensor or coolant temp sensor you may have to just live with it.

Burp the system first to make sure there is no air bubble. +1 on the thermostat, if you're going that route, get a genuine Subaru replacement. Radiator cap is cheap and should be replaced also.

About 4 years ago when my wife was warming up our '01 OB wagon while she cleaned off the ice and snow in 12° weather. When she got in the car she smelled gasoline fumes coming in the vents. I went out and popped the hood and found gas dripping from the fuel line on the driver's side above the cylinder bank. There is a short piece of fuel line between the 2 metal lines that has 2 hose clamps, just above center of the 2 cylinders, the inner one was dripping about 1 drop every 3-4 seconds, there was a puddle on top of the cylinders that quickly evaporated after I tightened the clamp. I double checked the rest and found that another on on the other side needed a quick snugging of about 1/2 turn with a phillips driver. You can see the line and clamps I tightened if you click here.

What work was done on the 2.2 before install? One thing could be a timing belt off a couple of teeth. I had a 2.2 that ran well through the entire RMP range until you hit above 5000 RPM then it acted as if the rev limiter kicked in. A reinstall of the belt cured it.

+ 1 on the car info. I assume that it didn't do this before the work was done. I am a firm believer in having the mechanic fix something that wasn't broken before. If you start adjusting or replacing parts that were touched by the mechanic during the repairs, they could blame you for the problem. Take it back and have them look at it and do a diagnostic, that way they are responsible.

I've had no complaints on the 3 Kirkland brand from Costco that I've been using, I've got 6 years on one right now. In fact the battery in our MY01 Outback is still the original and I'll be changing it out this spring with a Costco Kirkland.

This car would need a clean carfax before I'd believe the ad...

You don't say which state you are in, but a u-pick-it junk yard would be a cheap source. Find one protected in a closed trunk and you should be good to go for a few bucks. Welcome to the board!

If all things are in proper working order the fuse being in or out won't help tire wear or gas mileage. If I read your post right and you are removing the fuse to make it FWD then you are doing it backwards. Fuse in = FWD Fuse out = AWD

Year, model and mileage is always helpful. You can do a search here on the board for "piston slap", there is plenty of info. Check the short list at the bottom of this window. These engines can have the slap for life without any other issues. But each case is different. SOA's stand is that it is normal and does not damage the motor in any way. As long as it goes away or quiets down after warm up. Constant rapping could be a sign of other internal problems.

What a sad story! What was the dogs name, Nipper?

Pegged to me means at the end of its travel. Assuming you mean the indicator stops at operating temp and never moves once there then you might need to have the thermostat replaced on the Impreza. I had an aftermarket thermostat make the temp rise above what I considered normal while driving at times and then return back to the normal. I replaced it with a genuine Subaru thermostat and it has been rock steady ever since.

I'd check the oil and try to start it and see if the engine will run at all. Even without coolant you can run it for a minute or two without damage. Then you can make a decision on starting with just a radiator or more. Can you tell how it ran out of coolant?

Check your fuel lines where the metal line jumps over to the engine. There is a rubber fuel line connection. Our MY01 Outback had a loose hose clamp that only leaked when the outdoor temperature was low. It was only leaking when the engine was cold and running. Once it warmed up the engine compartment it stopped. It only took a 1/4 to 1/2 twist of a phillips to stop the leak.

+1 on Rooster2's reply. One tank for both front and back.

I'd head to the dealer and speak with the service manager first. See what he says, then ask for the best way to contact SOA.

Being 6'3" I've found that to be true in most cases!

That's normal. I had a MY05 and a MY97 that did/do it. It's a self-checking test that it does after startup. Not sure why you never heard it before although it was more noticeable on the MY95 than it is on the MY97.

Maybe the previous owner was a brake pedal rider, but that would hit the fronts first I would think? -or- Maybe the 135k brake job was never done? ALTHOUGH.. I CAN'T imagine being bill for work that was never done by the shop! I'd just replace and keep and eye on it for now.

Most likely a wheel bearing. When mine went out it was after about 4 years of noise getting louder as time went on. it ended up making a rubbing type of noise while driving sort of a (don't laugh) WUB-WUB-WUB at a low pitch that was louder while turning that wheel when it was on the outside of a turn, mine was the front passenger side. Your discription sounds similar to mine except for the rattle and jingle. That might be unrelated.

Calm Down!!! Read the quote on the link itself: "Subaru says the future Legacy's styling will split consumer opinion. This photo illustration offers an idea of what the new Legacy may look like." Not set in stone yet, but if I wanted a car that looked like an Audi...

Don't discount the tire sizes either. I had WRX wheels and tires on a MY95 Legacy L sedan and now a MY97 L wagon and the handling improved immensely. The lower profile tires didn't stop body roll but grip was waaaaaaayyyy better.

They are currently on a MY07 Legacy L Wagon not an OB and I took them off the wrecked MY05 Legacy L sedan I sold to you (that's why you got it with 4 donut spares). Never had a rub on either car. They are stock WRX wheels off a MY02 with 205/55-16 tires.

Yeah they work pretty well for keeping the wipers from frosting up except for those really windy freezing rain / ice storms. It still helps but doesn't always stop them from freezing up totally. It does keep the lower part of the glass by the body from building up ice though. If it wasn't there to begin with you will have to get all the electrical relays and switch too and wired it up. That might make it more trouble than it's worth.

No. Unless fog lights were ordered or put on by the dealer there is no pre-wiring. I found a set of new in box OEM Subaru fog lights on ebay for a MY97 Legacy that came with the lights, wires, relay, switch button and instructions. The instructions said that it fit MY95 through MY99. I was lucky to find it since most fog lights on ebay don't come with anything else but the lights and brackets. I pulled the wires etc, out of my 95 wrecked Legacy before I got rid of it and the wiring was identical.