Suzam

I had a MY95 2.2 Legacy AWD sedan that got 22-23 avarage mixed and 28-29 on the highway on trips of 300+ miles at one shot. I now have MY97 Legacy Wagon 2.2 that gets about the same (22-23) mixed average altought I haven't had it on a long trip yet. Our MY01 & MY98 2.5 Outbacks gets about 5-10% less than the 2.2's do, closer on the highway, farther apart on the mixed/local driving. In the WINTER it drops 10% on all of them!!! When the wife or daughter drive the MPG drops. I always get at least 1 MPG better than they do.

Congrats! Hope your wife lets you drive it every now and then.

Maintainence isn't really a way of stopping the head gasket from blowing out on the 2.5L. The problem is design of the head and gaskets although a well maintained car is nicer anyway. If the one you are looking at hasn't had a problem yet, it's getting into the age and mileage range where it may go out. Most anyone here will tell you "it's not if, but when". We have a MY98 with 120K on it and I'm trying to keep an eye on it for symptoms like oil and/or bubbles in the overflow, unexplained overheating on the highway and the heater to stop working. You could look for a manual tranny Outback with a 2.2 from that year, I'd feel much better with that setup than a 2.5, but if you have your heart set on it, put some cash aside for a headgasket job in the future. Just for insurance.

Ahhh Nipper. Always ready to pull out a traditional type of wisdom.

This model shouldn't show the above mentioned head gasket issues althoough it's good to check. The 2000's 2.5 SOHC have the external headgasket weeping (mostly on the driver's side) problems. Not the internal overheating, bubbles and/or oil in the overflow. You can physically see the coolant residue on the bottom of the cylinder casing where it meets the block if there is a leak. Also, check for torque binding by turning tight circles. You can do a search on the board for much more information. And welcome to the board!

Just in case anyone hasn't notice that the original post is over 2 years old, I still like the Michelin tires I got at Costco. They are still providing good service on both the Outback and Camry. Costco often has that same sale I mentioned several times per year.

If the battery is newer, I vote alternator. If it's the original battery, replace that first.

You're welcome. Let us know if that number is still in the parts computer where you get it. I think I remember that the parts guy had to break out a 3-ring binder to find it.

Here's an old link with the part number when I had the same problem. the part number is: 45124AC000

Try the search function in the header and look for "piston slap" you'll get plenty of information.Also look at the bottom of this post for the Similar Threads links.

WOW, if you MY02 is on the driver's side then Subaru moved it from the MY01 location. (see my pervious post with pictures)

This question appears every now & then. I decided to take pictures of the location in a MY01 Outback LTD. Passenger side rear cargo area. Raise tire cover, lift center up plate over spare, remove carpet plate on passenger side and thick insulation plate. GO FISH! http://www.geocities.com/ss_aruba/golf_shots/Plug_1.jpg http://www.geocities.com/ss_aruba/golf_shots/Plug_2.jpg

Right. What I was asking was the difference between a 2.5 DOHC adjustment vs. a 2.2 SOHC in time/price. So there is a difference between the two types.

I almost never need an excuse to sit. Especially if it's a bar stool! So what would I be looking at for a SOHC 2.2L then?

I posted a previous thread about my 2.2 and possible piston slap. A few responses were to have the valves adjusted for correct lash. I still wonder -- if the noise quiets down is it valves? Any engine I've had before was always the same valve noise cold or hot. My mechanic looked in his book and said it calls for 7.3 hours of labor for the adjustment! :eek: I can just imagine the bill on that being over $600? Anybody had this done lately? What did it cost?

Also make sure that your other lights are not dim as well. If they are dull, check your ground wires to the engine block and body for good connections.

Could a MY97 2.2 with 118,000 miles have piston slap?. All the symptoms are there: #1 - colder morning (below 40ºF) nice and loud #2 - as engine warms up, gets quieter #3 - when fully warm, almost gone, just a quiet little tap #4 - warmer days quieter on cold start and goes silent faster I though this was mostly a 2.5 thing, but wasn't the MY97 was the first interference 2.2 with the shorter piston skirts? I've kind of ruled out a solid lifter/valve clearence issue because it get quieter as it warms up, or could it be?

All the Subies I've had are automatics. If I put the fronts on ice I'll get a little slippage then it goes. Almost not noticeable. I know the auto is 90/10 but with 50/50 of the manual I would think you could expect less front slippage? Which raises a good question: Does the Viscous coupler on the manual trannys delay engagement of the rear wheels more than the auto Duty C clutch packs?

Like Nipper says, if you really, really want it call them back in 2 weeks and offer $5000. They have already dropped $2000 off as the counter offer. If they want to know what happened to the $6000 you offered last week tell them you've found a comparable for less than $5000 but you'd like this one if they drop the price. The dealer will try to squeeze as much as they can. They will even say if you're willing to add $500 to the offer they'll take it. If they do offer to meet them halfway at $250. HAGGLE. I'd bet they have LESS then $3000 TOPS tied up in the car at the moment.

Sometimes if the dealership has a clean trade-in, they'll put it on the lot and let it sit with a rediculiously high price in the hope somebody would bite at the price. They often expect a haggler to stop in and as a last resort the wholesaler will be around to buy it. Talk to a salesman and he'll usually say "make and offer" because that way they have an idea of how much of your money you are willing to part with. Since they will most likely wholesale a 10 year old car before it sits there too long. Instead, ask them what the least amount would be for you to take it off their hands (like your doing them a favor). Then haggle THAT price. With the 60,000 service due (even if a CA car they shouldn't argue) and maybe tires etc. you'd would be puting $1500 back into it.

Boy that was lucky. Get a couple of new keys made asap!

+1 on Nipper's remark. My 97 had an issue with the temp rising and falling while driving. It would go as high as 3/4 of the way up. I stopped and felt the lower radiator hose while it was on the rise and it was stone cold. When it started to drop the hose got warm. Subaru OEM T-stat fixed the problem. Even a new OEM could be faulty,

given a choice of the 2 displays... I'd take the car WITHOUT the indicators! Less mileage!

Buy the latest Consumer Reports magazine. The artical "Who Make the Best Cars" These are "overall" scores: #1- Honda 78 overall #2- Toyota 75 #3- Subaru 72 #4- BMW 71 #5- Nissan 71 #6- VW 71 #7- Mazda 71 #8- Mercedes 67 #9- Hyundai 66 #10- Volvo 64 #11- Mitsubishi 63 #12- Ford with 61 #13- GM 54 #14- Suzuki 49 #15- Chrysler 49 There are some intersting write-ups in this April 2008 issue.

The GT and LSi were the only model of MY96 Legacy with the 2.5 all the others have the 2.2, you can also check under the hood for a sticker that will tell you engine size.