Suzam

Just so you know first off, no one was hurt. The young one borrowed the car for the weekend and was in the city last night when another car ran in front of her at the intersection. 2 air bags later... (see attachments, if they worked) The radiator was pushed against the engine which itself seem to be pushed back. Nobody hit the windshield, the passenger side airbag did that damage plus k/o'ed the rear view mirror. I guess we know that 12+ year old airbags still deploy. Unfortunatly at 160,000 miles I think we're done.

Is this a dealer or private sale. Private sale could mean all receipts available for a history which is worth it's weight in gold. Otherwise, check for tourque bind by driving in a tight circle clockwise and counterclockwise and make sure there is no fuse in the FWD socket under the hood and dirty or discolored antifreeze fluid in the radiator overflow bottle for indication of a blown headgasket are 2 that come to mind right away.

I had the passenger side one melt on our MY95 Legacy L. I think the blade of the bulb slid blow the "C" shaped plug and had contact only on the outer edges causing resistance heat. I replaced the whole plug with this aftermarket plug. A NOKYA model NOK9101 plug, you can google for a retailer. Just remember to slide the rubber boot over the new wires before splicing, I didn't and ended up splitting the boot while I tried to stretch it over the splice.

Just curious as to the date of manufacture on the door tag. If it's close to the begining of the model introduction date, that might explain it.

Yes the wheels will work, but be cafeful about what size tires you mount on them. Someone here should be able to clue you in. I'm pretty sure you can go fairly large without a problem

Make sure you put 4 good tires of the same circumference. Don't want to chance ruining your AWD.

It's amazing how jumping to conclusions and knee-JERK reactions can cause mass hysteria. Good joke, took me all of 5 seconds to start laughing.

It's it nice when things workout like that? Especially in Hawaii.:banana: Aloha

Sounds like it could be classic blown headgasket. Do a search of this board, plenty of info. If the used car dealership does a hydrocarbon test on the coolant and it's positive, maybe you have a chance of getting them to repair it under thier warranty. Get it diagnosed ASAP. I f you don't trust them have the Subaru dealership do it for you and have them pay for a positive test. Hopefully the engine hasn't overheated to the point of warping the heads, which is fixable, or cracking the block.

Our MY95 does after a startup too, totally normal ABS system self check. As for the end of the ramp, you may have been braking hard and hit an oil patch or some other slippery spot. I've felt the ABS kick in while braking hard or on an curve when the tires were turning at different speeds.

Absolutly no problems fitting those on your car. I have 2002 WRX 16 inch wheels on our MY95 Legacy L.

Could be the way you are driving. I can beat the wife's milage in the same car almost all the time, just by having different driving habits.

Check the torque of the lug nuts. Over tightening can cause stress on the rotors. After a while the heating and cooling cycle can causes the rotor to warp. Also aftermarket pads can leave a residue on rotors, light sanding of the rotor might help if that is the cause of vibration. In my experience, a very noticable shake of the steering wheel is the front rotors. A milder shake and more shimmy of the car is the rears. Once you experience both it's a little easier to ID.

Don't beat yourself up about the mistake. There are some horror stories on this board of the Quick oil change places (I call them "Iffy-Lube") that drain the wrong oil.

Always nice when it all works right ! :clap:

Sounds like it might be an LS not an L model. Beware, It could be a FWD car. Assuming it's in good shape, I'd jump it, can't pass up a 2.2 with only 85K.

Make sure your headlamp plugs are in good shape too and making good contact, it's the top one for the low beam. I went through a series of bulbs, and went to other suppliers after the ones I got at Pep Boys kept blowing out. If they are mistreated being shipped to the store or packaged poorly, it only takes a few good bangs of the box they are in to shorten the life. Don't forget to be careful to keep your fingers off them. Oil from your skin shortens the life also.

About the only thing you can do is change the oil, just in case it got a little cooked. Otherwise if it's running well now, you should be OK.

Keep your chin up, plenty of 95 Subies with more milage than yours. We have one with almost 160k on it. I replaced the alternator in it at 120k. The bearings when in it. I've never had good luck with Sears automotive either.:-\

I found this when I Googled. http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php/How_do_I_get_parts_for_my_AWD_Transmission%3F Seems like they ship parts to dealers and individuals, maybe a source for AWD-AT parts!

Hey! No Fair, he has to learn like the rest. Experience is a wonderful thing. slavver01 you came to the right place for info!

Have you reset the ECU?

My 95 stock fog lights have a 2 hole bracket that bolts to the metal frame under the bumper cover. There are 2 threaded holes above the opening that face downward, these should also be on yours. The holes are forward of the lenses so the bracket extends forward like a "7" with the light at the tail of the bracket. http://www.geocities.com/ss_aruba/golf_shots/LilBlueFrt.jpg

Cam seals? I replaced the tensioner and timing belt idler and pulleys at 150K and the engine ran a lot quieter, never realized how much over time that the front of the engine was getting so noisy.

Yep there is a small door, open it up and you'll see the plug for ODB II. The chances of finding one with ODB I would be pretty slim.