Suzam

Hope you had the dealer put the additive in when the TSB was issued.:-\ If so, it's on record and you should have the dealer check it out. It does sound like the external leak symptoms.

Sounds like you may have a wrong sized or poorly rebuilt half-shaft. Use the search functions and search for "shaft shake" or similar key words. Here's one link that popped up for me: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42567&highlight=shaft+shake

Take it back to the shop that did the headgaskets and have them pull the codes.

The 2000 front brakes were undersized to start with. The 2001+ were larger. If you can get the parts I consider swapping out for the larger size.

Hidden Hitch and Draw-Tight both have hitches that will fit. Google trailer hitch and you'll find plenty of options. Installing is a quick simple bolt on. Figure about $130 plus shipping or you might be able to find a local supplier and pay about the same as delivery. You could also check U-Haul, some of the larger shops will install one of theirs, I don't know what their prices are like. Don't forget the cost of the bike rack in the total. I used http://www.hitchesonline.com/ for a hitch and 3 bike rack setup.

I think the radio has to be off also, when you set the time.

Get a Consumer Report price breakdown and also check edmunds.com for the actual dealers cost. Then negotiate up from the dealers cost. Every day that car sits in the lot it cost them. You'll get the best deal possible if you know what you're negotiating for in the first place. Most dealers will accept a resonable profit if they think you won't buy otherwise. They can alway count on the next sucker, er... I mean potential customer.

I agree with the others. Stay away! Don't go for it, it looks like a bad deal.

This place: http://www.convertergeek.com/content.wws?fname=california.html&cookieID=1W8180KIR1W8182IGI&clientid=convertergeek claims to sell certified cats for CA. I'd call Concordville, Rafferty or Matt Slap Subaru and talk to someone in the parts department about the differences in the rear cat. Tell them what you know and that you're thinking of doing it yourself and ask what, if any difference there would be between the 2 cats. You might find that you can use the 49 state converter or ta least you'll get better facts.

I'd go with a 95+ with the 2.2 SOHC. They are bullet proof motors and you get the "newer" body design. The newer the car, the more saftey built in.

Yes, 26.29 in. for the 205/70/15 vs. 24.87 in. for the 205/55/16, approx. 1.25 TOTAL or .625 inches from the center of the wheel. Info is according to http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp I think you'd be OK because I was worried more about the width than hight. The struts seemed close when I put them on, but I have plenty of clearance for the hieght.

I put WRX 205/55-16 stock wheels/tires on our MY95 Legacy L with NO clearance issues what-so-ever. I don't belive you would need to worry about clearance. I'd check the width of the stock wheels, I seem to remember that the stock Legacy wheels are 5.5 not 6, or something like that. It would fit the wheel but the sidewall would bow in creating more sidewall flex.

If you're saying the rise and tilt still work then I'd say something other than a fuse is at fault. Could be a bad switch or wiring. Check the fuse block on the wheel well insde the engine compartment.

You can peek at some of Subaru's models available in Japan at: http://www.subaru.co.jp/index.html Whether models like the R1 and R2 that look to be similar in size to the other smaller imports make it to the states...

I'd be curious to see if this failure is the same as the last. If so there should be a common flaw to cause the failure that you haven't figured on. Otherwise if the failure looks like a different area or side, I would not ask you to buy me a lottery ticket! Sorry for your troubles, hope you're able to get a diagnosis and correct it. :-\ As an after thought: have you replaced the water pump and also check the drive belt tension? I know that these are obvious...but you know how that goes.

OK, I'll welcome you! Congrats on the purchase.

Just check on the approach and depart angles. The Outback might have a bit more overhang.

I wouldn't take it back just for this problem, BUT you could tell them you will if they can't make the car useable for you. I'd try and get them to find and program a remote for you, otherwise you will bring it back...also get it in writing if they promise to do so. In case your return warranty runs out. They will have to fix the problem somehow for you or the next buyer anyway.

You might try a new gas cap, but I'd get one from Subaru not aftermarket. Remember not to "top off" the tank, Subie's dont like to be overfilled after the nozle clicks off. Your MY01 is ODB II your older one isn't but you can read the codes check Legacy777's site for info. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html

The only time I set off the shock sensor on our MY01 OBW is when I drop my utility trailer onto the ball hitch. I've never set it off any other way. I've parked next to a couple of Harleys once and they set off several car alarms in the area when they started up, but the Subie just sat there quietly minding it's own business:D.

When we had a leak in our MY01 headliner, I saw the inner workings at the dealer when the were working on it. The motor drives both windows and is located in the rear of the car above the headliner. The dealer had to remove the head liner in the rear by taking out the side plastic trim pieces of the rear door frame. I not sure what else was disconnected to lower the whole liner down but it remained attatched at the front of the car near the front window. The motor drives a cable which spins like a speedometer cable and drives the the window movement. I really don't know how it drives the front window at that point since I didn't get a chance to view the mechanism since they were just showing me the cause of the leak. Hope this helps...

Are you dealing with the service manager or just "one of the guys" behind the desk? You need to talk to the service manager first and calmly explain your problem and ask for a mechanic to specifically look for indications of a leak or sepage. Your year isn't involved with the recall for the external leaks, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Remind them of what a great regular customer you are and how they have always been good to you service wise. If you get no cooperation from the dealer, find another one or a good mechanic to check it out. You should always have problems documented in the service of a car enven if they can't find anything now... down the road you never know it it will become an issue.

At 118,000 consider changing the transfer case and rear differential oil with a synthetic. Also a transmission fluid change would be a good idea also.

Nipper, You're probably correct on the proper usage of sealant, although I'd question if a leak around the rim would be sealed by it. I would expect it to work better in the tread and lower sidwall area with escaping air than a slow pressure loss by the wheel. Since CPAScott said he need tires, I'd try to fix the problem when new tires are installed and not use the sealant on more than 1 tire at his time.:-\

I have the hidden-hitch on our MY01 Outback Ltd., no complaints and minimal ground clearance issues. Easy to install.