Suzam

If you are positive you want to sell it you should consider repairing it and keep proof of the parts. It will increase the value and the new buyer would be much happier. I've thought about getting rid of a couple of cars in my life because of minor leaks and other issues, but after correcting the things that were bothering me about the car, I was actually happier after the repairs and kept the car a lot longer that I though I wanted to. You'd be amazed how much more you enjoy the car if you don't smell that oil or constantly have to worry about tire pressure etc. I would recommend replacing the wheels with newer Subaru 16 inch wheels from ebay and a nice set of quiet, smooth riding tires. If that's not the way you want to go, have the tire place polish the inner rim and lip before mounting the new tires, our MY98 had the same slow leaks and that cured it. On a side note, the stop leak stuff can wreck a tire and the gummy stuff is hard to remove from the wheels if it stcks on them. It can also cause them to become unbalanced. I'd only use it as a last resort in an emergency.

Please post your year, model, engine and transmission to help us help you. In the interum, the 2.2 is know for the shakes when in gear, but smooths out in neutral for mid 90's models.

Veeerrrrryyyy NICE!!!

You could try a 10 amp...if it blows you can always go higher

As far as I recall the LSD was available on the Outback in 2000 as an option with the all weather package. In 2001 it was standard on the Outback Limited and an option on the base model. Before that I think it was only available on the SVX model not any other models. I recall this because when I bought our MY01 the reason I went with the Limited was the side-air bags and the LSD.

If the ABS light is on, it could mean a major problem. That light does not come on and stay on unless the ABS is not functioning. You will need to find the cause and fix the problem. Could be big $ or a simple fix.

I had 8 years on the original battery in our MY95 Legacy, still worked fine but when we turned the car over to my daughter I changed it out just for saftey.

I belive Autozone reads them for free for you. Not sure if the let you do it or they do it though, I never had it done there, my mechanic will do it for me if I stop by, since he knows I'll have him do any work needed.

Congratulations and welcome to our world! Keep us posted on your new ride.

No real caveats, MY03 is after (according to SOA) the external HG leak since they don't treat that year with the "conditioner' additive in the coolant. I'm considering picking up one like that and replace our MY05 Legacy. Check out the AWD and make sure it's functioning properly and see if you can get a warranty thrown in from the dealship.

Could be the worn pad warning tabs are misaligned and dragging on the rotor, or a loose shim behind the pad. Does the noise stop when the brakes are applied? Hard to diagnosis noises on the internet.

I'm curious about the time frame here. Winter formulation of gas is know to cause lower MPG. The manufacturers are all converting or converted over to summer blends by now. How long have you been checking the MPG and how long have you had this car and how many similar trips? Our MY95 used to get between 27 at worst to 32 MPG at best on a regularly traveled long haul from SE PA to upstate NY with no mods at any time. Just differences in conditions of the moment. If you can maintain a difference like the one you are now, that would be more convincing...hope you do.

Welcome to the board! Your noise is a know problem, you can do a search for "gusset" and find a few fixes or check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=105358#post105358

Another problem is the JDM lights are focused for a RHD car. Your headlights would be aimed for the left side of the road not the right. Ever pass a car parked facing you that pulled up to the curb on your side of the road with its headlights on?

I have one from Samsonite that I have used on a sedan with no roof rack and it worked fine. Only complaint was the straps vibrated and made noises but some repostioning of the straps solved that problem. No leaks in rain.

Andreas Zapatinas is the Subaru designer who worked at Fiat and Alfa Romeo. Just check out http://www.alfaromeo.com and see the same flavor of design.

Avoid prolonged steady RPM like highway driving at the same speed. A country drive with a wide range of speed is a good idea. Read your owner's manual, it has recommendations on your break in periods and how to drive while within this period.

All the instructions for the wagons say left also, but they all seem to be located on the right side. Maybe the sedans are also...

I like the trans cooler idea. I'll check into it. If I have an aluminium separator plate should I still replace it? Also how can I find out if it is plastic or aluminum before I go ahead and order one? And were is a good source for any of the above mentioned parts? :confused:

After putting up with an internal bearing whine and leak between the transfer case oil and AT fluid (which I figure caused the bearing to start going out) I'm having the 4EAT pulled and rebuilt. It in our MY95 Legacy AWD with 145K miles. I figure I'd have them check the rear seal on the engine. Anything else I should have checked while the transmission is out?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/VehicleBrowse/tf-VehicleBrowse/s-10101/showAll-0/showCustom-0/N-200729870+111+1997+600001553/c-10101

H3

First thing I'd try would be to jump a hot wire to the pump and see if it will work, just to enliminate the pump as the problem.

A buddy of mine lived on an old farm and parked his car in a barn. His solution was to wet down the engine and sprinkle some cayenne pepper in the nooks and crannies. Seemed to keep the little vistors away. This was after they chewed through some harness wires.

I'd say it's a good deal if all the extras are functioning correctly. Have them change the timing belt for you or prove it was at 60k if you think you're going to buy it. I'd like to find a deal like that myself.