Suzam

My Mother-in-Law's 98MY Outback had 2k on it when she drove to Youngstown OH from Delaware (about 400 miles). The night she arrived, while heading out for a short trip, the engine started rapping loudly. She drove it to a local Subaru dealer the next morning and was diagnosed with a bad bearing. They called SOA and did a "tear-down" to confirm the damage and a new create motor was shipped out. She had to head home before the install, so SOA picked-up the cost of a loaner, until she could go back for her car. The mechanic told her that when they drained the oil and open it up to examine the internals the oil, oil pan and filter were loaded with metal. BTW-at 84k this 2.5 has been running perfectly. Lucky? Or maybe there are tighter specs on the replacement create engines? I wonder...

You didn't say how many miles you had but I have a 95MY 2.2 (132,000) that did the same thing, including random idle speeds and the O2 code. I reset the computer and dumped 2 bottles of injector cleaner in a fresh tank of gas, then 1 bottle for the next 2 tanks. Idle is back to normal and no CEL. Might be worth a shot, it worked for me and this was after I finally got tired of the problem and took it to the dealship and had them check everything they could think of. They found no problems or an explanation of the cause that I managed to cure. I'm now considering Seafoam when the weather stays warmer to knock out any carbon in the top end.

I believe it's a relay, not sure where it is. Might be under the dash or in the engine compartment. BTW-for safety it only goes down automatically, still have to hold it for closing.

If you'd consider a quality rebuild check out http://www.ccrengines.com/ there is a member of this board who is affiliated with them. I've seen many posts about them...none negative. You'll get an engine delivered to your doorstep. Someone from the board who's dealt with them might post some feedback for you about them.

On the OutBacks it's behind the front bumper just off center, and ahead of the radiator frame. I can see it from above. Sounds like the wire disconnected from the sensor.

Does it smell inside only with the driver's window down? It's possible the smell is coming in the front vents? If you open any window and "depressurize" the cabin, the air volume coming in the vents increases, so you might be picking up a smell from the engine compartment. Check all hose connections under the hood. I had an oil change done at the dealer and could smell exaust everytime I turned on the vent fan. I stopped by 2 days later to have it checked and they found a disconnected hose (I should have asked which one) that got bumped or disconnected while being seviced. The smell disappeared after it was reconnected. BTW-I didn't smell it as much when I hit the recirculator button.

Has anyone been working in the engine compartment lately? Check all the hose connections on the engine. Sounds like the typical smell discription of the crankcase vapor. If you've ever smelled a PCV valve it kind of smells like a very hot candle or has the melted waxy smell you discribe.

Every 60,000 is the interval for a timing belt on the MY95 2.2 engines.

Wow...Apples and Apples here. Macintosh and Delicious are both apples but they sure taste different, just like tires can be of the same brand or size but they sure behave differently. The thing about any tire is: when the sizes change, the dynamics change. So a tire that performs in one way, in a certain size, will be different [even if slightly] in another size. Width of tread, diameter of tire, diameter of wheel...even the type of and the condition of the car they are mounted on, all play a roll in performance and handling. A brand tire that performs well in one size is no guarantee that another size will behave the same, although as a rule of thumb your odds will be better. Give the other tires a try and see if they are better, if not mounted on wheels find a set of steel wheels you can use for your "winter" tires and keep you other 3 season tires on the original wheels.

During fog and rain I see the lines or edge of the road much clearer. When driving in a car without "fog" lights in the rain, I really miss them. Plus the look good!

Personally I'd feel better that the head gaskets have been replaced. I believe that Subaru extended the warranty for head gasket failure to 100,000 miles, so check with your dealer on that coverage. I doubt that your car will ever become a "nightmare" and you should expect plenty of trouble-free service from it.

Yes...it does on the VDC models, however the subject car is a MY95 LSi. So let me revise my statement: Other than a VDC models, the ABS has nothing to do with the AWD. Sorry for the confusion.

Just for a HOOT-- put a 20 amp fuse in the FWD plug (under the hood on the passenger side near the firewall) and drive around in the snow without AWD for a few minutes. You'll want to pull it out as soon as you experience the difference. ***Automatics only!!!*** Oh yeah...the ABS has nothing to do with the AWD.

I have a question about the delayed "D" engagement...if you move the shifter to 2nd, or even 1st will it clunk into gear? Just curious.

This is going to be a powdery "dry" type of blowing snow, should be easier than a heavy wet snow since it packs down.

Search the web for trailer wiring hookups at the hitch sites. You should find a few different brands that will be less $ than a Subaru part. I installed a hidden-hitch and wiring harness on our MY01 OB Wagon. You do need the adapter because of the separate turn signals. The adapter is an electronic switch that uses the single trailer light for both the brake and signals. Check here: http://www.hitches4less.com/ or here: http://www.hitchesonline.com/

You don't mention the sizes, or mileage on the car, but as long as the new installed tires are all the same size and inflated properly (a couple of lbs. higher in the front) the difference will not cause any problems I could think of. Maybe your U-Joints? On our MY95 Legacy L with AWD, I went from 185/70-14 to 195/70-14 then to 205/55-16 with no mechanical damage at all.

Good to know the timing belt was changed. I'd still inspect the cam seals, they usually start leaking anywhere between 88,000 and 140,000 kms. Try doing a search on the board for oil leaks, cam seals etc. you might get some ideas for your leak.

Cam seals and oil pumps are routine minor leaks to contend with the 2.2 engines. Both are easy to correct. The timing belt needs changing every 60,000 miles (96,000 kms if my conversion is correct). A good mechanic who is familiar with Subarus will examine the cam seals and oil pump while changing the timing belt since it is all exposed at that time. It's not unusual to have to replace a couple of cam seals at this time. Do you have maintenance records? If not I'd consider changing the belt anyway, they can't be examined visually to confirm a new one, they almost always look new. Also if oil leak onto them they should be replaced.

If you have any independent garages near you, stop by and ask questions. I found one near me that changes the oil/filter and tops off washer fluid etc. for $18.95 while I wait (if I call for an appointment). I have given them other work since I found them, at resonable prices...we both win...and I don't worry about an ignorant mechanic draining something he shouldn't for $24.95.

Yes, peel it off to continue.

Welcome to the board. If you join the Subaru family, you'll get a lot of info here. I'd consider the car a good investment, but I'd ask the dealer for a warranty up to 100K (in writing) for that price. That's a minimal investment for them and you get some piece of mind. They will probably ask you for some $ to cover the cost, so maybe you can ask them to kick it in for free to close the deal or at least a good discount. Also do a search on this board for head gasket failures. Some have posted costs they have paid for replacement. Then if you get a worst case, you'll know what you could expect. Remember, more disasters tend show up posted here than the satified owners. Good Luck!

WELCOME! I belive the OEM clutch has been improved upon, someone may be able to offer more info (sorry I only have autos). The belt change interval on 2nd gen 2.5 is 105K.

Hey frag, I was as guilty of sarcasm as well, it wasn't a direct attack at you, my apologies if it seemed that way. I was playing off of your lead with my crack about a second person. Guess I should have said "us" wise guys. That's the problem with emails and message boards, no vocal interpretation to grasp intent of the thoughts. Bowjam, do a search on the board. There is a plug you can disconnect on the wheel well (I think) under the hood to kill the DRLs.

I also strongly suggest that you have a second person to confirm the lights are out. You aren't the first one and won't be the last. Welcome to the board...plenty of HELPFUL advice is also available. More so than sarcastic replies from wise guys.