Suzam

Can you provide specifics? Year, model, engine, etc. How long has it been doing this? What type of fuel? Same source for fuel if more than one tank? Any other types of repairs or maintenance done recently?

Can you describe which type of failure?

I have a 2001 OBW Limited with 92K on it and it's weeped coolant but only to the point of showing wetness on the underside of the driver's side. It also has an oil leak but again just marks from oil collecting dirt, no puddles on the topside of the gasket. I don't lose and great measurable amounts of either between checks and changes. I do make sure the Holt's/Subaru coolant conditioner gets added at flush times.

That's great, glad to hear that it's a done deal. I'm sure you were nervous about dealing cross country sight unseen. I like the idea of you doing maintenance on the road, you should have it in perfect running order by the time you hit the west coast.

Edmonds.com routinely changes their long term cars @ 13K with synthetic oil. Check out this interesting oil change story: http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html 15K change interval is longer than average but the car lived north of the Allentown/Bethlehem area all it's life. A lot of trips out the front door and down the street are 15+ miles just to get somewhere around that location. It averaged 30K per year, that breaks down to oil changes every 6 months. While a little on the high side mileage wise, I don't find that interval too disconcerting. As far as the overheat issue, if it was idled with low level of coolant that could cause a once on a while thing. The fact it didn't happen again is encouraging. This year model wasn't known for internal head gasket leaks although you can't rule it out. Check the overflow bottle and make sure it isn't discolored or smelly. And remove the radiator cap and smell in the opening. Any exhaust or bad smell could be trouble. A loose belt or maybe a clogged hose or weak pump should be checked into also. I just added my 2¢ to Nipper's.

I saw that he is a ham operator too, they like to talk and contact people they don't even know. If you tell him the story, including distance you're traveling, I can't think why he wouldn't talk to you about it.

You could try doing some detective work by contacting the original owner. It's on the title with his address pictured in the listing. Any info he could supply might be helpful. I searched and found his phone and even his DOB. I wonder if he'd be upset if he knew that his name and address were posted in an ebay auction. Although if you contact him I wouldn't mention that first off!!!

I've always called them plunger switches.

Clogged PCV valve?

Sounds like you may have air in the system. Either from when you changed the CTS or maybe a minor leak in a hose that allows air back in when cooling down. You mentioned a leak on the passenger side, was it at the firewall or the radiator? Try a proper burping of the coolant system first to see if that cures it.

Daughter's 99 OBW was hit in the driver's side mirror knocking it off so it dangles by it's wires. It was a fairly good blow from a commercial truck moving about 25 MPH. It only hit the mirror, never touched the car itself. Now when she lowers the window via the auto down it hits the bottom and stops moving but the motor keeps trying to lower until (and I guessing) a thermal switch stops powering it. Maybe 10 seconds later the window moves slightly when it powers on again to keep lowering the already lowered window, then shuts off again. While shut off you can't even raise it so I know the motor has shut down, but when it tries to lower on the next cycle you can raise it and as long as it's not lowered all the way it acts normal (as in it stops and stays anywhere you want it to). I'm thinking the shock has messed with the switch panel somehow but the switch isn't what stops the motor itself. But maybe thinks the button is always down when you auto it? The car is with my daughter now but tomorrow I'll be seeing her I want to find out it it can be lower without using the auto feature to the very bottom and behaves correctly. An insurance guy is going to look at it next week and I want to make sure that he know that this is part of the accident when he cuts the check. Thoughts?

If you lightly apply the brakes does it change? You may have a warped rotor since it doesn't seem to be wheel/tire related. If the rotors are in good shape have a shop true them for you, it shouldn't take much off to fix. If they are not in good shape or seem to be extremely warped have them replace or you can do it yourself, it really isn't hard if you're handy.

The best lessons are learned that way. Good job on getting the problem solved. Bet that engine will service him for a long time now.

Can you tell where the clicking seems to be coming from? Have you checked the PCV? I've seen them cause a lot of smoke out the tailpipe.

Gas mileage of about 23 is close to what you should be getting in a 50/50 mix of driving. I'd call that regular mileage in any of the 2.2's Iv'e owned, maybe 27 to 29 on strictly highway driving. I always get 2-3 MPG more than either my daughter or wife in any car we've ever owned just because of different driving habits. When you say it's gotten worse, what were you getting?

Yeah that could do it. I had a MY95 2.2 with the same thing. It was the first change @ 60K done by a dealer. Took it back and they re-hung the belt and all was well. As soon as it hit higher revs, no power and a massive intake noise.

Yeah, sorry I missed the 98 part in your first post, the double button one like above is what a 98 would need. I swore that was an Alpine unit but if it's 98 it's a Code Alarm system.

Yes those 2 should work, both are Alpine parts. Used in MY99+ Outbacks and Legacy models.

My 2001 seeps oil from the top of the passenger side HG. It isn't enough to cause a puddle, just enough to be damp and collect dirt.

Welcome to the message board! How many miles does it have? Have you serviced the transmission? If you start a Subaru in 2 on the shifter it should start out in second gear. I'd be curious to find out if it does start in 2nd and what happens when you shift into 3rd after you get rolling. You should get some good ideas and advice here as soon as a few more members reply.

If you tug like crazy can you make it pop up or just while driving down the highway? The latch mechanism is adjustable via the bolts on the front frame rail. If you just loosen them enough to tap them up a slight amount with a small hammer or wrench and re-tighten you should be ok. Unless there is a problem with the latch itself, just the slightest of adjustment can mean a better grip on the latch loop on the hood. Don't lossen it to the point of flopping around or you may have trouble getting it realigned. Put a scribe mark on the base for position in case you need to put it back where it was. Afterwards try pulling on it to see if it's more secure.

Complete service records are worth their weight in gold. I would not really consider a car, even this one you were interested in, with that much mileage unless there was a detailed paper trail like you describe. If you feel the price is fair then your risks are reduced as far as knowledge of the maintenance. The 2,2 has been know to easily get well past 300+ miles on a maintained engine.

Assumng it's an automatic, putting the gear selecter in 1st or 2nd will start you off with a 50/50 split of power front to rear. 2nd also starts you out in 2nd gear which also helps with initial spinning. If you still feel a clunk in the rear it could be a viscous limited slip rear engaging if so equipped.

This is a good indication of a bad alternator. Rebuilds have a good chance of not being 100% reliable. Usually the cheaper rebuilds mean new bearings (if needed) and brushes with a general cleanup and paint. Unless the alternator is dead, the diodes and voltage regulator often get reused. Since they are easy to remove you can get it bench tested for free at most auto parts stores.