MorganM

Requires splitting open the tranny to fix. I don't have time to swap in another tranny... trying to finish my home and move ASAP. I sold it so I can focus on more important things.

This same problem just manifested on my 4EAT during this morning's commute =( Does this require removal and splitting apart the tranny? Or is it accessible if I drop the pan? Is this a repair or project for a DIY shade tree mechanic? Don't bother and just swap in another tranny? Please advise

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110057 There's a link to it. That's at the Iron Range OHVRA in Minnesota. Fun place to spend a weekend wheel'n =)

No sealant needed for the housing that bolts to the water pump. Hit those bolts with some PB Blaster before you get started; the heads like to twist off and that's never fun. The rubber seal slips over the rim of the t-stat.... tounge and grove style. There is a thin groove along the inner side of the seal. The razor thin edge of the t-stat slips into that. When you pull out the old t-stat and pull off that seal you'll see how it works. Also note the orientation of the t-stat in the water pump so you put the new one in correctly. If you have no idea when the last time the hoses were replaced then I'd replace them... now you know! =) Top hose should be HOT. That's where the engine pumps water out and in to the radiator. The water pump sucks it in from the bottom of the radiator. Also note that the bottom hose has an extra sleeve over it on the elbow so it's nearly twice as thick as the upper hose; this can mask how hot it really feels because there's more insulation around it.

I'd still find out where it's coming from so you can judge if it's worth fixing or not. Maybe it's OK to ignore it... maybe it's not? Find out =) For example: CV boots and oil pressure sending units really should be replaced soon rather than ignoring them. Smoke is never a good thing; even on leaky Subarus =P The smell of smoke is a great indicator of not only a leak but also what exactly is leaking. If you start to ignore smoke (or even burnt fluid smell) because "it always does that" then you're doing yourself a disservice.... and let's face it... a disservice to the people behind you! =P If it's bad enough to actually cause physically visible smoke then you really should find out exactly what's going on. While I, and others, have said that it's normal for Subarus to sweat some oil... it's not normal to produce smoke from this. It usually means you get a few drips on the driveway and a gooey mess on the underside of the engine... not smoke.

Figure out where it's leaking from. Then you can figure out how hard it's going to be to fix. It's a Subaru.... I'd be more worried if it didn't sweat some oil =)

I use the INNOVA 3030 scanner. It's $46.00 at Wal-mart. Used it for several years now with out issues.

Use a mechanic's stethiscope to pinpont the problem. They almost always help in finding the real source of a noise. It may not be what you think it is.

The muffler on that car doesn't get that hot even sitting there ideling. If the muffler got that hot then the cat would have been WAY hotter (since it's closer to the heat source) I really don't think that carpet back there is going to combust from a muffler that's not only behind a heatshield but also behind other layers of metal and dapening material under the carpet. Before a muffler got hot enough to cause that to happen other parts of the exhaust would have been even hotter and done the same thing elsewhere in the car. I just don't buy the story... unless we are missing some key details? Was there an exhuast leak right there? Was someone under there welding to fix something? Either there's more to the story or the story is bogus because this doesn't add up.

Another vote for the cheap ODBII scanner. I use mine all the time and love it. To me I don't like having to carry around yet another laptop. Can't leave it in the car lest it get stolen. Dunno about you but I already have my work laptop with me 90% of the time. My little ODBII scanner fits in the center console under my electric shaver and garage door opener =P Out of sight so not worried about it getting stolen (besides It's no where near the cost of a laptop anyway) Time is money... don't sell yourself short! Unless you really have nothing better to do or it's part of the auto hobby experience to hook up your laptop, program the software, scan the ECU, log the data, and tinker. Don't get me wrong; I have a friend who jacks his laptop to his EVO, custom tuned everything, and it's all part of his motorsport hobby... have at it... but if it's really about a matter of money then analyze that. Price out the dongle you want from a reputable seller. Price out a cheap ODBII scanner from a reputable seller. How much are you really saving? Maybe it's enough to matter (you stated $50?)? Maybe it's a matter of $10-$20 difference?

Great thanks for the part numbers!

Here are the different error codes for knock sensor I'm not sure what "high imput" means P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0327 Knock sensor circuit low input P0328 Knock sensor circuit high input P1325 Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input

Anyone happen to know the McMaster part number for a Tee that will go into 4860K141 ? I want to have an oil pressure guage sending unit in one side of the Tee and the idiot light sending unit in the other side.

Just did timing belt, all pulleys, tensioner, water pump, and cam seals. Used the Import Experts 'Master Timing Belt Kit' off eBay as some suggested. I know several other people on here run these so I'm asking... are yours noisy? It's a subtle ... 'whirring' or 'whine'; low pitch (not a squeak or squeal) It's not rhythmic but constant and in perfect time with the engine RPMs. Haven't narrowed it down yet to anything specific. I've put on almost 70 miles now since I put this all on and everything seems OK... maybe I'm just paranoid? =/ (ps. just had a thought while writing this... maybe something rubbing on the timing belt covers?! like the crank pulley, tensioner pulley for AC belt or something? I noticed some marks on the t-belt covers they were rubbing on them at some point. I'll check that out tomorrow...)

Some final thoughts now that it's done. Make a loopback or coupler for the AT cooler lines and then you can do some test starts before putting the radiator back in (and all of the covers, etc..). What I did was run a hose that fit inside the tranny cooler lines from the IN to the OUT hose so it would just loopback to itself. Seemed to work fine for doing quick test starts to verify timing belt was done properly. Poor man's impact wrench... hammer + breaker bar. Sadly I still have to use this method because my impact gun doesn't fit between the front of the engine and the AC condenser! =P Worked well on the cam and crank bolts for the final torque down; I guess we'll see if it's tight enough since I didn't get a torque wrench.

So I got all of my marks to line up with the belt marks. Let the tensioner pin go and expand for a few minutes. Then rolled it over with the breaker bar... and the marks on the belt do not line up with the marks on my cams or crank! The belt marks can line up with the marks on the timing belt covers and on the oil pump. The marks I made on the cam gears and the notch in the crank gear can line up with the marks on the timing belt covers and oil pump... but no mater how many times I roll it over I cant get ALL of the marks to line up like I had it when I installed the belt. I thought this was really weird because when I used to do EA82 timing belts I would roll it over by hand and everything would still line up. Anyway I started the car and she fired right up so I guess it's OK. I'll know more tomorrow because I had to shut it down right away since the radiator was out a nd it's half torn apart still. Oh and putting the lower right tensioner on last was much easier than trying to do the lower left gear last.

The cam gears came off fairly easy by just putting the bolt back in the crank and using the breaker bar to hold the engine while I loostened the cam gear bolts. Obviously this was done before removing the old timing belt. Getting the cam seals out was another PITA. I went to get a Shaft Type Seal Puller but nobody had one. Ended up going through two sets of small picks. Dental tools were too weak and my small screw drivers weren't working.

That link in the first post is a great tutorial. Crank Pulley was a bear to get off as usual. What ended up doing the trick was one pry bar against where the alternator bolts to the power steering. Then took a 4' 1x2 board vertical between the AC pump and the alternator running down near the crank pulley and sitting on the floor. This board gave me a strong leverage point for another prybar (instead of busting up the plastic covers) Then just pry one side at a time (left, right, left, right) and it eventually walked out.

Good points; and I'm certainly not going to buy two at this point. Thx GD

I don't even own a torque wrench and I'm still pondering.... why bother? However I do want to get this job done right. On one hand it's my daily driver, I depend on it for 70 miles every day, have to drive my kids around in it, and breaking down in a MN winter sucks. On the other hand I haven't used one in the last 12 years of wrenching. This weekend I'm doing timing belts, water pump, resealing oil pump, cam seals, and crank seal. This means I have to remove/reinstall the oil pump, water pump, cam gears, crank pulley, and timing belt pullies. Does anyone know the torque specs for these items? Cam Gear Bolts Oil Pump Bolts Water Pump Bolts Timing Belt Pulley Bolts (are they all the same spec?) Crank Pulley Bolt This is on a '95 EJ22 N/A engine. Thanks!

That's how I've done it in the past as well; don't even own a torque wrench =/ However I'm thinking about actually buying one and using it for this weekend project (timing belts, cam seals, crank seal, reseal oil pump, water pump)

Yeah that's what I've done with all the other water pumps... paper gaskets and RTV. Glad to have this neat rubber coated one! Happen to know the proper torque specs for the water pump bolts?

That's what I figured; thanks for the input!

Haven't been able to find details on water pump repacement with regards to using a sealant / RTV on the gasket or not. It's a rubber coated metal gasket so that's why I'm questioning the need for sealant. Never delt with this kind of gasket on a water pump before. Please advise, thx!

GD points out some good reasons. For the money spent you could easily get a number of other quality cars. I think you really have to drive one to understand why people love them and keep buying Subarus. My own experience, I just love them for what they are. Every Subaru (besides the Justy!) I've sat in I thought "wow, this is a neat car!" With my old '88 GL I couldn't belive all of the options it had for an '88 station wagon. The BRAT and old EA81 hatchbacks are just a freak'n sweet vehicles. Sitting in an XT you feel like you're in a space ship of the future and the XT6 is a space ship with an H6. The Outback was "the worlds first sport utility wagon" - Paul Hogan Impreza STi is an all out rally car, turbo, AWD, driver controled center diff, etc. etc. OK... they even built the Justy RS which wasn't quite as lame (5spd with push button 4WD). Forester is a nice wagon with plenty of room. I say go drive some new ones and see if something clicks in you saying "Ya know... I really like this car."