saltytheseadog

The time has come to put my Subie out to pasture. It is still running strong like most Subaru's are when they are retired around here but the rust has taken hold. But before it gets crushed I have a final purpose for it. I intend to take it to my boat access only cottage and use it as a utility vehicle for hauling firewood from the back of the lot and pulling a boat trailer up the beach. My model has dual range 4WD, will never travel more than 1/8 of a mile and will likely never go over 10 mph. The ground is rough so bigger tires would be a plus and I'm considering removing the gas tank and plumbing in a boat style day tank located where the passenger seat used to be. This will protect it from rocks, fuel going stale from lack of use (easier to drain), and rust. My questions are; ( 1) Other than the fuel line to the fuel pump and the return line which could be plumbed into the plastic tank are there any other considerations? ( 2) I've read here that larger wheels can be put on a Subie by getting 6 bolt rims and drilling 2 holes to match the 4 bolt pattern. I'm not interested in doing any fender modification. Which model and size of rim would be best for this?

Re-torqueing hasn't helped and the shimmy is still there when braking , worse at higher speeds. Scary in fact. Today I tried to do an E brake stop at high speed which while slow stopping did not produce any shaking. This would lead me to think that the problem is in the rear drum brakes, so I lifted the rear wheels off the ground, and with a pole, put on a slight brake pressure with the motor running. The results were inclusive. While there was a small difference in drag when I rotated the wheel by hand, it was the same in both wheels. I'm trying to isolate the problem but not sure how to do it. Can't tell where it is because it makes the whole car shake.

Yesterday I changed all my wheels to a set of subaru alloy rims from a subie I am decommissioning. I have been driving that car for the last 6 months and there were no issues with the wheels. First time I go to put on my brakes there was a violent brake shimmy. They seemed to go on fine and I can't think what could of changed to make my brakes so weird. I'm going to try loosening the nuts and torqueing them to 80 ft lbs.

Getting code 32 on the ECU. Changed out the O2 sensor with a new NTK but still have active check engine light. Do I have to cancel the code somehow? Any other possible causes likely?

Thanks, Good to know there is a set of 6 manuals out there . Would like to find some of them. Is it possible to edit title of this post to say " Complete 6 volume EA82 Manual set wanted " I have taken a heater core out of Loyale on its way to the wrecker and if I remember correctly it involved a couple of crowbars and at least one stick of dynamite.

I'm looking at the pdf ea82 service manual that I have and it seems to be incomplete. Should there be a third part that covers body part components such as how to remove a heater core as an example? The 2 part manual I have just covers the drive train.

I tried changing the steering fluid and cleaning the strainer in the reservoir but found no improvement. I've noticed the steering is easier when the car is cold and that raising the engine RPM makes it easier. Are these symptoms of a worn pump? Any online tutorials on changing a pump that anyone can share?

I'm posting for a friend who recently purchased this car. While driving it recently in a tight parking situation I found the steering incredibly hard. We checked the fluid level and found it low and added some Dexron III ATF. This seemed to help but the steering still seems harder than it should be. I've never driven this model so I'm not sure if this is normal. I know it's a lot harder than my 91 Loyale is but it is a heavier car.

Thanks for that. Scary stuff but at least nobody reported snapping one off.

I have to replace the rear shocks on my 2WD Loyale. I'm wondering how easy it is to snap off one of those upper bolts. I've tried as best I can to get some penetrating oil onto them is preparation for the shock change. It seems that snapping one of those bolts could really ruin your day (week).

I did a similar repair on a motorcycle head many years ago . I threaded the hole with a tapered pipe thread and put an aluminium pipe plug in tight , cut it off flush , drilled and tapped for a new stud. Maybe a brass plug would work also.

You'd lose those bets Miles.Cam tower is clean as a whistle. Thanks for the tip on getting a socket in there. Head bolts were up to spec. Guess I'll be doing a H/G in the near future.

I'll have another look tomorrow. It's quite a stream comes out when it's cold

Gasket wrap out ?

Pretty sure thats where its coming from. Just did the pan gasket again but with the "right stuff" this time. When I started the car after the oil pan repair and a puddle of oil appeared under the car I thought I may have done something wrong but found it dripping from the lower aft end of the passenger side head gasket. So I just went out and started it up, stone cold. After a dozen seconds a drip started to form from the location previously described and after about one minute it was making a large drip every few seconds. If I were to leave it the drip would slow down to hardly noticeable when it warmed up. I'm wondering if the head bolts are properly torqued up.and can they be re-torqued without removing the cam tower. The car has under 200k on it but I can see the heads must have been off by all the grey gasket maker on the cam tower

This is my fourth Subie and I've been blessed that they haven't leaked until now, this latest one is like the exxon valdex. I have found that it drops a couple of tablespoons of oil out from the aft end of the pass side head gasket at start up when the engine is cold but this subsides to an occasional drip as it warms up. My question is, is it possible to re torque the head bolts by taking the cam cover off and would this help or at least give me temporary relief until I can do the head gasket.

You could be right about the caliper. I noticed some blue discoloration on the rotor. Is this a scrap yard item or can you get rebuilds .

Lately there has been an intermittant shimmy causing the steering wheel to shake enough to be scary.On a recent highway trip it would start up in the 50mph range but goes away. It seems to not be related to speed . Also when I would have to brake hard for a traffic light there is a noticeable pulsating in the brakes. Today when I drove it at a slower speed it felt like I was on a gravel road or the bearings were self destructing, but it went away. I have recently replaced a CV shaft to see if that was the problem and that repair seemed to go well.Today I checked the axle nuts with a 3 foot bar on a 3/4 drive and they were both tight. Jacked the car up and checked the brakes. The right side dragged a bit and I thought it may be a result of not bleeding it well when I had replaced a caliper with a used one I had, because the E brake was sticking on.Tried bleeding it again and turning the caliper piston in but it wouldn't budge(under pressure?) but I must of shook enough rust loose to make them turn freely or something.Checked the discs for parallel and they were bang on although the left side seems to have a bit of run out. I'm not sure if I have 2 problems or 1 problem causing 2 symptoms( brakes and shaking) Any suggestions?

Thanks for your advice. The wheel bearing was loose on one side. Sounds better now. Took the opportunity to repack the bearings and paint the wheel wells with undercoating as some of my dearly departed subarus have started leaking there.Found some cancer while I was down there......darn its started already

It's embarrassing loud when I first use the brakes after sitting overnight but goes away after being used a few times.No noise when brakes are not being applied. I live on the coast so its always humid but it doesn't seem to matter if its raining or hot and sunny, same noise.

When first starting off in my Loyale my rear brakes make an awful squeal which goes away as I drive. I've seen a discussion on this in old posts on this site, but no solution given. Anybody know the cause and solution to this?

Both my SPFI non turbo Loyale wagons have done this at times; with engine warmed up, usually at a stop light. they hunt between 850-1150 RPM . Not all the time but often enough to be annoying

Colour is black and no pwr door locks

I'm wrecking my 92 4WD Loyale and saving the parts for my 2WD 91 Loyale wagon. It seems the scrap yards only have new cars in them now so you have to be your own car farm these days. What I've noticed taking the old dear apart is the multitude of different electical connectors used throughout the car. Some need a twist, some you need to press a button with your thumb,others you need to push the button with a screwdriver. Then there were the ones on the back of the dash guages. They'll never work again.Often you are upside down looking at the connector through a gap so its hard to know what it wants. The book could be called Subaru wiring for dummies. Thanks for letting me rant.