northguy

While you're at it, don't forget vacuum lines and any rubber lines that may extend into the cab of the vehicle, not just under the hood.

Just buy Shawn's gray on now for sale on E-Bay.

Dave, I think you're right - all fittinngs are sealed.

Bought my 92 legacy awd auto tranny with 90k on the clock for $3800 2 years ago. Had to put new rotors on it this year and replace the timing belt. Other than that, it's a runner and great in the Alaskan winters.

Add to that Cougar - Anchorage resident . I think he owns an OB Wagon, maybe a LL Bean edition, or something like that, 00 or 01 maybe. I'm sure he'll chime in here.

Contact Richie Rich. He has a shop in Portland, and does good work. I'd go to him but 2,400 miles is a bit far for me.

This has the same flavor as some of the gossip in the powder room. Are you sure you have the right forum?:-) :-)

Welcome to the board. It sounds as though you are mechanically inclined, but if you run into a problem you can't tackle, there are probably more board members per square mile in the Portland area than anywhere else. Send out a call for help, or stop by Richie Rich's shop. He's a thoroughly qualified mechanic who stands behind his work, and a good guy, also. (While you're there, snoop around the back yard and see what "goodies" he has stashed.

Tom, I am not any farther away than you, and I flew down to Portland and drove back just have a decent Brat. If you want it, go get it.

Take a look at Legacy777's ride for an idea of what you're looking for. There's a guy near me with a used Legacy sedan - nothing special - that was for sale a couple of months back for 2500. You could talk him down, especially with Christmas just around the corner. If you want directions, PM me and I'll fill you in.

WOW! Give it a try and let us know how it works out.:-)

They look nice, but I recently bought a set of 4 Goodyear studded snows (Slaloms, I think) for $176 mounted/balanced from Costco. No shipping and a place to go if something bad happens with the tires. Coopers are good tires; some say as good as Haks, but I am told they need to come off as soon as the temp comes back up. Too soft for year round use; wear too rapidly in warm weather.

You're looking at that one on e-bay, huh? I saw it and you're right, it does look sweet. It'll look good in Kodiak, but how many brown bears, elk and deer will fit in the back?

I'd place money on the u joints. Especially if it seems worse on acceleration and eases up when you take your foot off of the gas.

Jon, invest in flame-retardant clothing. A better idea would to make your tank a roof mount. Keep the flare-up possibilities away from the place where you are. Good luck and good to see you on the board again. Seems like you've taken a bit of time off. How's the insurance thing going?

Moosens, although you said don't reply, I will. I did not make that comment (in another post) about anyone specifically and especially not about you. One doesn't hang around the board and enjoy the sterling reputation you have (and rightly deserve) without being worthy of it. If you took offense to it, I appologize. I was making reference (without naming names) to a couple of recent posts saying things like " I have parts, just ask" and then we never see anything from that person again. With the recent post about ripoffs on other boards from people posting and then taking the money and never delivering on the goods, and that I just sent a check for something I may never see( I sincerely hope I am wrong), I felt the need to pipe up. Again, sorry if I offended you.

Are you the original owner of the vehicle? If not, someone may have put the wrong sending unit on it. My oil pressure was very low and I checked and found out the sending unit on my rig (a brat) actually came from an imprezza. Switched to the right one and I now have oil pressure to spare. You may want to check it out.

Hi and welcome to the board. There was a long thread a few months back (check the archives or do a search) on remanufactured motors from Japan and some of the potential problems. I know your car doesn't fall into that category, but some of the same concerns are there. Chack it out. Not familiar with your particular model but I can't imagine that with the exceptions of a few bells and whistles it is much different from any other legacy. Change the oil every 3,000 miles (is that about 4,200 Kilos?) and change the timing belt every 60,000 miles (again, approx 72,000 K?) and it should run forever. My wife has 160,000 on hers (a 96) and it still runs fantastic. Good luck and check the board often for advice. Legacy 777 is a good newer generation expert.

You'll be sorry.

As it says in the "Idiot's Guide To Volkswagons", "Make peace with your rump roast for it bears you." Kiss and make up with your car. Two years from now when you're driving it around you'll be happy you did.

Snowman, I asked the local pro here, and as he hasn't read the entire thread -he only got the boiled down version I had a couple of minutes to relate - he suggests that it sounds like carburation problems; maybe an air leak around the adaptor plate or incorrect alignment of bolt holes? His suggestion - pose the situation to redline. Hope that helps. Matt

I suggest that the final product be copyrighted by and property of the USMB and that all profits go toward the funding of the board. MHO.

Kelly, I'm not much of a whiz on engine dynamics, but it sounds like a distributor problem/ electrical, although I doubt it has to do with your coil. I'll ask the local pro where I work and get back with you.

I have a Japaneese engine in mine (either remanufactured or one that was pulled from a car there because of the mileage thing) that won't allow a screw in block heater. Considered a tank heater but had bad experiences with them on another vehicle - you have to mount them quire low to ensure proper flow or they just heat a small amount of fluid and shut off - so I opted for an oil pan heater and siliconed it on with high temp (red) silicone. Should work fine - if it ever gets cold here. Think snow!

Better safe than sorry. You canalways buy a cab heater that plugs into the cigarette lighter if cab warmth is the issue. If it's engine temp, put in a block heater and plug it in a couple of hours befor you decide to leave, or put it on a timer....