northguy

I'll probably be blasted for this but... It's a 97. It's 13 years old. It probably has close to 200 k on the clock. You could invest a bunch of time and money in fixing something that will probably spring a new leak somewhere else next week. Drop in a pint of stop leak for $8.00 and forget about it.

It doesn't matter what it says once it is covered in mud.

I added a quart of oil.

besides the obvious fuel filter under the hood, isn't there a secong one under the car near the gas tank?

You're lucky. Most old Subarus start to smell like well-worn sweat socks and 3 day old salmon.

WI - brats, beer, and the Brewers - oh, and that other team. Welcome to the board.

You have a gen 2. Since you live in Portland and appear to be pretty new to the Subaru line, you might think about driving your new vehicle over to SIRS (Specialized Import Repair Service) and introduce yourself to Richie. He can give you a first rate appraisal of what you might need in the near future.

Sounds like he wants to sell the car, or maybe just the tailgate and bumper. (?)

Maybe you two could just agree to disagree. I was an auto glass installer you years before my current career. There was a lot written in the industry. Perhaps if you want to "prove " who is correct, you could cite professional articles, provide documentation. (I believe I know the answer, but I'm not weighing in here.)

I am not familiar with specs for a 93 Brat as they stopped them in the U.S. in 87, so I will just assume you're talking about the 4 spd dual range that was in the Brats here. Those transmissions were tough and do well with the engine in the Brat. The 5 spd dual range will work with it, and it does make for some more top end on the highway, but it also isn't geared quite right for steep inclines (as in Alaska). If you opt for the 5 spd conversion, you might want to contact bratsrus1 (Jerry) as he builds a conversion package that allows the average garage mechanis to do it himself.

Not to argue, but the method I am referring to is to use a butyl kit as a dam for the urethane, as well as to keep the shield from seating too far, to maintain the proper height. Additionally, the butyl kit will allow the vehicle to be moved after a few hours, before the sealant has hardened completely, and not risk a void in the seal. I do not advocate a "close cut" method of replacement.

I believe there was a thread on this suggesting a new can of brake fluid.

Try heating the urethane before you use it, It flows a lot better. Also, microwave the butyl tape kit before you use it. About 40 seconds will do it.

Miss your presene on this coast- make one there. Say hi to Paul for us, if you get up that way.

Welcome. You have an expert and board moderator in Anc - Cougar.

Can't speak for every show, but the one I was at had two different areas - 1 family side, and one for the young and dumb (boy that didn't come out very politically correct did it?).

If you are a Yooper, check out Sisu. He's near Spokane, but isn't on the board much. He's from da U P

Be sure to check out the WCSS

Hey, from the other end of the world.

Look up Torxxx. He's a Fairbanksian with a good line for used parts there.

Depending on where in the Midwest you are, there are any number of resident experts who would most likely lend you a hand. Miles fox used to be a wrench for hire. Send out an S.O.S. And you may be surprised how many people come to the rescue.

#2 - you will need to make some mods - one of which is to bash in the wheel wells for steering clearance on the front wheels. Having only lifted one Brat, I am by no means an expert. Might want to shoot Zap a PM.

If you venture all the way to S.C., you could be an honorary member of the phuquowi tribe.

SIRS in Portland, run by Richierich, moderator on this board. Why go anywhere else?

Man, that's the second day of moose season.