northguy

In the older legacies, there was a problem with a valve losing pressure, leaking. It made the auto trannies hesitate upon start up. One could fix it, but it's a royal pain. I've been running mine for 3 years like that and no continued problems other than letting it idle to build up pressure. That's no a big deal up here where you need to let the motor warm up anyway.

As always the price will be N/C. Gotta help a brother out. (Wait until you see my Brat - I'll try to post pics once I get it cleaned up.)

If you need the carb in a hurry, I can send it the same as the disty.

To answer the question, yes, you have proved your point.

Sounds pretty full to me. Take a trip around the functions on the board and see what it has to offer. It is a wonderful source of info and good people. Stick around and you'll see.

Also, if you need a spare carb, you know where to find one. The price, like all of my parts, is always right.

Did you replace both fuel filters? The one in the back by the tank and the one under the hood? Also, check all of the vacuum hoses to the air cleaner and carb. If there is the slightest bit of crap in any of the jets, especially the idler jet, it'll run like dung. Just a few ideas.

For 8 bills, you could buy a new motor from CCR. For 8 bills, you could buy a new beater. You may love your car, but with 240k miles on the clock, it's just not worth putting any serious money into. Part it out and take the proceeds and buy a new ride. my .02

Are you sure it's electrical and not carb related? Timing?

Trade it in for an SVX or a WRX. You can turbo it, modify the exhaust, do lots of stuff, but you still have an ea81 - not enough HP to be a challenge on the street. Drop an ej22 in it and then you're in the ballpark.

So, I pulled the driver's seat out, peeled back the carpet and there are 2 12mm bolts that allow adjustment or the pivot point for the 4x4 shift lever. I adjusted them as far as they will go,and now have the correct height on my 4x4 shifter. It is SWEET!

What are you going to use it for? Street or offroad?

Welcome to the board. Try the search function on wrx.

Welcome to the board, although that's not much of an introduction.

If you want to keep the mud off either: 1. drive in the water more, or 2. drive on the street:lol:

The driveshaft unbolts from the diff. The axles are removed via driving the roll pins out just like the front. You might want a prybar to get the axles off of the stubs, or wait until the diff drops. There are 4 bolts that hold the diff to a bracket, and two more that hold it to the diff hanger bracket. It woighs about 60 lbs, so you might want a portable jack to hold it up while you take bolts out. You shouldn't have oil problems if you leave the driveshaft in the front yoke.

Welcome to the board. Lots of info on oil here. The topic has been kicked around a lot.

Diversified Tire in Wasilla. Thay have 7 left. And then, that's it. Cooper has droped them from that size and there is talk of dropping all 14" tires.

I just got aPM from Bratsrus (Jerry) and he tells me there is an adjustment for the 4x4 linkage. I'll look for it again tomorrow and let you know what I uncover.

I know someone will say "that ain't such a great deal", but since they are no longer made and aren't available in most shops, I think I got a good deal. 4 Cooper STT 205/75/14 mounted and balanced = $300. I am getting ready for the mud this Spring. Eat your heart out Kelly and Brad.

I'm having the same problem with mine and the only thing I can see to do is shorten the connecting rod and reweld it.

Do what you can afford. but I'd pass on it. It seems a bit pricey for a shell. Good luck in collage.

I thought you would have been all over it already.

I thought you were going to say you couldn't pass an open field or wooded area without making a detour to do some off-roading.

The fender will fit. The difference is the location for antenna mount. On an 82 it's on the driver's side; on the passenger's side from then on.