northguy

Jon, What a bummer. Your logic is sound (I can't answer your concerns for certain) in that you're providing an anchor to the front wheel assembly and some sense of suspension. If only for a short time, it shouldn't be a big deal, except that it might ride really funky. Keep it under 90 and you should be all right.

1. Thanks for the suggestions. What I think I'm hearing is that I'll have to elongate the holes in the tops of the strut towers to guess at the correct location for the correct camber. I can play around with that; I just don't want to weaken that area. 2. Do you have any clue wherea guy could find such a reducer? Since I'm going to install a 5 spd tranny, I might as well do it then. Cost? Thanks.

Don't tell me I stumped the experts on these two questions

Goog choice, Mick. Nowget that thing out of the garage and show it around.

Touchdown!

Right now, with the original transmission "stuff" in place, my d/r lever already sits a couple of inches higher due to the lift. Does this mean the d/r lever will be 6" higher?

1. I just had the front end aligned after putting the lift kit on and the guy says the left side is at 2.50 +camber and the lewft side is at 2.97+camber. He says the number should be 1.50+camber for both, but that was the best he could do with the way the struts are installed (with the kit extensions). Is this guy all messed up? If not, can I change it someway, or am I going to just have to live with bad tire wear patterns? 2. With the inrreased tire size, the Miata website says I am now travelling about 10% faster than the speedo says. Is that the same with the odometer reading also? Am I actually going about 10% farther than the odometer reads? I thought the speedo ran off of a gear in the transmission (and I assume the odometer is relative to the speedo). Please advise-I'd be tickled to believe I'm getting more miles to the gallon.

Does one have to be concerned with balancing the driveshaft if it is to be lengthened? And is there a way to determine the additional length ahead of time? (I just like to have everything in order before taking my car "offline.")

Thanks for the info. The USRM says that if I'm doing a Brat, the driveshaft will work fine. It's other ea81 drivelines that need to be lengthened or a driveline from the donor used. The USRM must be mistaken. If I use a 1 piece driveshaft, do I still need to have a carrier bearing welded in place?

I'm lining things up to do a 5 spd d/r conversion from a 4 spd d/r in my 83 Brat. The donor car is an 89 ea82 spfi. What do I need in the way of pieces/parts to make the cross over? Which clutch do I need? Do I need to do something with the flywheel? It's not happening for a while, but I want to have all of the things I need in place before I start. Any help is appreciated.

Do what MC5 says - "CRANK UP THE JAMS, M###ER F###ER!"

Welcome. As said before, you'll find some of your own countrymen here, too. You'll also find a wealth of knowledge and experience about subbies.

Try Napa online.

Yes, post this info when you have it. Those puppies are a godsend.

The only way I can get 30 mpg at 80 mph is to have my 83 Brat dropped from an airplane from about 23,000 feet.

Do a search on webber carbs here. It's a quick cure if you don't have to contend with emissions tests.

The H rims aren't so ugly even if they are common. They're classier than a set of white spokes.

I used to have low readings, then I changed sending units. Now I have high readings. The pressure didn't change - only the readings. It's kind of like politics: you can change who is in charge, but no matter who is there, there's still a liar and a crook running the show. You've just got to believe in the system.

If you see any vent louvers for me, that would be cool.

1. Drive to Compton 2. Pull the wheels 3. Pull the motor 4. Gut the interior 5. Leave it on the streets overnight 6. Come back the next day to a new coat of paint:lol:

so what does european styleing on the tires mean? one of the sets I'm looking at list that as a bullet point...... That they can charge $19.99 a tire more for a trumped up idea. Seriously, I don't know, but it just sounds like another advertising ploy. I put 205/75/14's on mine - made by Dayton Rubber Co. (an off brand), but they were $150 mounted and balanced. I thought I'd run these to get any bugs in alignment and rub on wheel wells figured out before I put on some serious meats.

Do a search on 2.5 h/g failures and I'm sure you'll see a representative sampling from across the board.

Congrats with the experiment. It sounds like it'll be a runner. And congrats on the mile mark (3000).

Well Kelly, if you're going to do something, there's no point in doing it half-a##ed. If you're going toblow an engine, we now have the model to follow. Nice job! Let me know ifyou need me to look for anything in the J/Y's here.