northguy

My 96 Legacy 2.2 averages 25 -27 mpg. My 91 Legacy 2.2 automatic is very close - 23-26.

That includes the purchase price of the car.

The way I see it is car payments equal about 3600 per year - new or old. If you buy a used car and put less than 300 p/month into it -payment and maintainance included - you're money ahead. A new car payment would be right around the same cost ($300 p/m). The insurance is more on a car with a loan on it, so I tend to buy cars that cost less than 3 grand and if I get a year out of them, I'm ahead of the game.

Hey wait. This is an off topic thread.

Isn't this more of an off topic thread rather than Older Generation oriented?

HEY! Wait a minute. This ain't about no Subarus. This is a weather report. It belongs in the Off Topic forum.

Don't they have MUD in Florida, or do they just sling it during election years?

PM Richie Rich. As Mudrat says, he's in Portland and he's an outstanding mechanic.

Blasphemy!

No it's not. In fact, if we cut our state in half, Texas would be the third largest state in the union.

:lol: :lol: Sometimes truth is stranger than fiction. I just remarked to my boss yesterday that I don't need any stinking roads (in ALASKA). I drive a Brat.

Some Germans can really get fanatical about their cars (unlike us:lol: ).

Isn't this thread really about the weather in specific parts of the country, and not about Subarus? Shouldn't this be in ... in ... um, ... say, Off Topic?

Step up to a mid 90's Legacy with cruise control and full time awd. Good mileage, plenty of get up and go, and easy/safe to drive as well as comfortable.

I can't plow my driveway with either of the Legacies or the Brat. Ford P/U trucks are good for some things even roos can't do.

Shy of really minor things like drive downhill all of the time and keep it waxed and clean, you've hit the highlights. MPG does seem to be one of the major disadvantages of the Forrester. It's the only reason my wife won't trade her Legacy in on one.

Junking it is no problem: just tap it on the edge with a hammer, sweep up the mess and toss it in the trashcan.

I got similar results from sealing my dipstick tube with gasket sealer. Thought it was a freak, but mine is on an 83 brat.

You might consider hiring Miles Fox next time; he's practically local and is good with Subbies of all sorts. He's certainly cheaper.

If you don't land that one, you might give a look at adalexander's brat. Check out the thread in old school subarus called drool, drool e bay.

You can try it that way, but the tension on the gasket may have a tendency to pull and release the trim in the process. The gasket isn't as tough as the "1 piece" types without the insert spline. It might work. I've never installed one that way, though. Probably because I have the tools to do it the other way. The second option is a one man job, and the former requires 2. Either way, good luck.

port says bad gateway. Anybody else want to weigh in on this?

Mick, if you can't get ahold of a plastic stick and/or a feed tool for the insert bead, let me know. I'll mail you mine and you can keep them. I have several.

This application is a bit different. Again, make dead certain the gasket is clean and free of existing glass shards, debris, old glue.... If you don't do this you are risking an explosion of new glass upon installation. With the gasket clean, make sure the inside lip is in full contact all of the way around the pinchweld. If the insert bead is not removed at this time, pull it out - again, a cotter key puller (hook tool) works well to expose the edges of the bead. It should pull out pretty easily. Clean out the groove where the bead is to be reinserted. This will make the reinsertion of the bead much easier and there will be less stress on the glass later. Make sure the edges of the glass and outer and inner surfaces are free of debris, glue... clean with alch=ohol and razor blades if necessary. Lube the hell out of the gasket with silicone spray. You may want to obtain a plastic tapered stick from a glass shop to help you install the glass. Never, never make contact of steel on glass. No hook tool contact with glass. Install - set th bottom edge of the gless in place in one corner - say bottom left. Push the glass fully down into the groove and all of the way to the left. Using your plastic stick, pull the lip out as you gently push the bottom of the glass down until you come to the corner. With a bit of practice, you'll find you can glide the plastic stick betrwwen the lip of the gasket and the bottom of the glass with the stick angled out slightly, and the glass can be fed in at a smooth, steady rate. Once you reach the corner, feed the lip around the corner as you pull the top of the glass downward into the groove completely. The bottom of the glass should be all of the way in the groove with the lip around the corners and starting up both sides equally. The glass, by now, should be resting against the gasket, poised to go in completely. Next, work the gasket in up the sides, trying to be fairly even as you go. Don't get too far ahead of either side, but don't sweat it too much - 6" or so is no big deal. Just don't do one whole side and then go back for the other. Too much lateral stress on the glass. Approach the top corners in the same manner as the bottom. If they fight you too much, you can, from the inside, push the lip from top center out and feed from both directions toward the corners. Feel free to relubricate as needed. Lube is good. Once you have the glass completely inside the lip, go have a beer, I mean, you may want to buy a universal feed tool to make the insert bead easier to install. It looks like a can opener and shouldn't run much more than $10. For a beer or two, an auto glass installer should probably let you use his/hers. Start the tool at bottom center, moving in one direction (again, with a lot of lube) and feeding the insert behind as you run the entire perimeter of the glass, ending back at the bottom center. The chrome clip that goes over the ends of the insert bead is easiest installed by putting it on the end of the bead, and using the hook tool to install the last 2" of insert into the gasket. Once in, use the hook tool to slide the chrome trim piece over the other end of the bead. If you can't obtain a feed tool, you can use your plastic stick and/or hook tool to put the insert bead in. Just feed the lip of the bead into the gasket one side and then use the tool of choice to pry the other side of the gasket over the top of the bead. If you are afraid of leaks, you may want to seal the gasket to glass with a very thin bead of urethane sealant before you reinstall the bead. Put the tip of the sealant tube in a vise and crush it flat, insert it between the glass and gasket as you circle the perimeter, squeezing a meager amount to seal the glass. Be careful this stuff is messy and hard to clean. It does not wash out of clothes and won't wash off of skin very well, either. Sorry this is so long.

What does the face (exterior side) of the gasket look like? Does it have an insert bead, oris it solid? I would assume the latter of the two, which, if that is the case, the most important aspect of installation is to assure that the channel wherethe new glass goes is perfectly clean and free of glass and debris. Install the gasket around the new glass on a bench, run a nylon rope around the perimeter of the inside lip starting at top center and ending at bottom center. Have someone else assist you by holding the glass and gasket assembly in place (gently) as you work the lip in while sitting inside the wagon. A cotter key puller (hook tool) is helpful to pull in stubborn places like the corners. The entire pinch weld should be lubricated prior to placing the assembly on it. I find silicone spray to work the best. A few gentle taps on the glass with the flat of the hand at the end - after the lip is COMPLETELY over the edge of the pinchweld will ensure the glass and gasket is fully seated. If you have the interlocking face bead insert, let me know and I'll do the write-up on it. Good luck, Mick